The analysis of colour and pattern in Romanian folk dress: protecting past legacies in an uncertain future

ABSTRACT

Dress may show the characteristics of an era, a country, a community or a person. As in other folk arts, clothing is one of the most vibrant documents of cultures. Since folk clothing, which is a cultural product, is directly related to people, it is an indicator of the people’s modes of living. The colours, patterns and motifs especially used in folk clothing provide important information on such matters. This article deals with the colours and patterns of the folk clothing in the regions within Romania. For this purpose, samples of folk clothing belonging to the regions considered as the most traditional are illustrated and the elements of folk clothing examined in terms of colour and pattern features. The article lists various colours and patterns and shows how their configurations serve as identifying markers for the various regional locations of their wearers.

KEYWORDS:

• Folk clothing
• pattern
• colour
• Romanian folk clothing
• culture

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Notes

1. E. W. Barber, Prehistoric textiles: The development of cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze ages with special reference to the Aegean, (USA: Princeton University Press, 1991).; and J. Fichter, Sosyoloji nedir, (Trans. Nilgün Çelebi), (Ankara: Anı Yayıncılık, 2009).

2. M. Giovanna and A. Biagini, Fashion through history: Costumes, symbols, communication (Volume I). (Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2017) <https://www.cambridgescholars.com/resources/pdfs/978-1-5275–0344–1-sample.pdf> [accessed 30 November 2023].

3. E. W. Barber, Resplendent dress from southeastern Europe: Ahistory inlayers. (Fowler Museum at UCLA Textile Series, 2013). M. Doncean, ‘The Moldavian Folk Costume – an ethno-cultural unit of high value for research, history and art, Lucrări Ştiinţifice Seria Agronomie 58 (2) (2015), 281–284.

4. J. Buddy, ‘Fashion and colour trends in the 1990s-Forecasting into the future,’ Colouration Technology 108(2) (1992), 64–69.

5. A. L. Battaiola, Adding Other Values to Colours Besides Fashion. (AIC South Africa 2006, ‘Colour in Fashion and Colour in Culture’ Proceedings of the Interim Meeting of the International Colour Association, 2006), p. 111.

6. D. Crane, Moda ve gündemleri. (Trans. Ö. Çelik), (İstanbul: Ayrıntı Yayınları, 2003).

7. V. Yankova, ‘Образы Прошлого О Татарах В Литве И Польше’, ‘Images of the Past Tatars in Lithuania and Poland,’ Dialogue with time – Intellectual History Review, 47 (2014), 189–204. (in Russian).

8. A. Mocenco, S. Olaru, G. Popescu and C. Ghituleasa, ‘Romanian folklore motifs in fashion design,’ Annals of the University of Oradea, Fascicle of Textiles, Leatherwork, XV, 1, (2014), 63–68.; and M. D. Şuteu, L. Doble, A. Albu and Toth, E. ‘Romanian traditional motif element of modernity in clothing,’ Аnnals of the University of Oradea Fascicle of Textiles, Leatherwork, XVIII, 1 (2017), 109–112.

9. S. Baycheva, ‘Application of devices of measurement of colour in analysis of food products,’ Innovation and Entrepreneurship – Applied Scientific Journal, 4(4) (2016), 43–59.; and L. Indrie, Z. Kazlacheva, J. Ilieva and S. Gherghel, ‘Embroidery – From Digital Designing to Fine Art,’ Industria Textila, 68 (2017), 366–369.; and Z. Kazlacheva and P. Dineva, ‘An investigation of pattern making of twisted draperies,’ Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education, 5(2) (2017), 85–93.

10. Z. Zlatev, L. Indrie, J. Ilieva and T. Ivanova, ‘Analysis on colours of folk costume and their application in contemporary textile design,’ Annals of The University of Oradea Fascicle of Textiles, Leatherwork, Volume XX, 1 (2019).

11. Anonymous, Romanian History, <http://www.rotravel.com/romania/history/index.php>. [accessed 27 December 2020].

12. T. Bănăţeanu, Prolegomene La O Teorie a Esteticii Artei Populare [Introduction to the Theory of the Aesthetics of Popular Art.] (Bucharest: Minerva 1985).

13. Ancient Transylvanians Rich in Gold, Treasure Shows <http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2011/01/110113-transylvanians-gold-bracelets-treasure-dracula-vampires-science/> [accessed 27 June 2020].

14. R. Vulcănescu, Mitologie Română (Române: Editura Academiei Republicii Socialiste, 1987).

15. A. Iuga, Contemporary Traditional Clothing in Maramureş, Folklore-electronic Journal of Folklore, 66 (2016), 37–58. https://doi.org/10.7592/FEJF2016.66.iuga

16. D. Isfanoni, P. Popoiu, ‘Patrimony Romanian Costume from The Collections of, Dimitrie Gusti”’National Village Museum, (Ed. Alcor Edimpex), (Bucureşti, 2007).

17. G. Cristea and M. Dăncuş, Maramureş, un muzeu viu în centrul Europei. [Maramureş, a Living Museum in the Centre of Europe.] (Bucharest: Fundaţia Culturală Română 2000).

18. W. Fassett, Traditional Romanian Crafts, <https://slideplayer.com/slide/1729815/> [accessed 28 June 2020].

19. S. L. Grafe, A Particular Beauty: Romanian Folk Clothing, from the Collection of Maryhill Museum of Art, Selections from, Maryhill Museum of Art, <https://www.maryhillmuseum.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/A-Particular-Beauty.pdf> [accessed 11 March 2024].

20. A. Frutiger, Signs and symbols their design and meaning. (Trans. Andrew Bluhm), (New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1989).

21. The Tree of Life from Yale University <http://brbl-archive.library.yale.edu/exhibitions/speculum/1v-tree-of-life.html> [accessed 27 June 2020].

22. V. Malcoci, Decorul în Lemn Din Arhitectura Populară Moldovenească (Moldovei: Editura Cartea Moldovei, Chişinău, 2006).

23. P. Monaghan, The encyclopedia of Celtic mythology and folklore (Infobase Publishing House, 2009) <https://books.google.com.tr/books?id=nd9R6GQBB_0C&pg=PA376> [accessed 27 June 2020].

24. C. Liliana, Romanian symbol – costumes, traditions and inspirations (Ovidius University Annals: Economic Sciences Series 3, 2014) <https://ideas.repec.org/a/ovi/oviste/vxivy2014i3p119–124.html> [accessed 27 June 2020].

25. J. H. Brunvand, The Study of Romanian Folklore, Journal of the Folklore Institute, 9 (1972), 133–161. https://doi.org/10.2307/3814162; and M. F. Busuioc, T. Simon, A. C. Niculescu and R. Trifanescu, New Opportunities for Niche Tourism in Romania: Ethnographic Tourism, Romanian Economic Business Review, Romanian-American University, 11(4.1), (2016), 35–43. <http://ftp://ftp.repec.org/opt/ReDIF/RePEc/rau/journl/WI16S/REBE-WI16S-5.pdf>

26. E. W. Barber, op. cit. 2013.