Tables and families. Value, emotions and aesthetics of conviviality in two culinary manuscripts of the Mexican elites of the 19th century

ABSTRACT

The attributes and cultural meanings of the table as a place for coexistence around food are sources of relevance for the study of the history and daily life of families from the past. The aim of this article is to analyze the social value given by families to the shared act of consuming food at elite 19th-century Mexican tables. This is done through the documentary study of two early and unpublished family culinary manuscripts, handwritten cookbooks created and in use in the period around the declaration of independence of Mexico in 1821. The identification of technical language and words that express affection in recipes, as well as table-mounting related sections in these manuscripts, allows for the assessment of females’ practice or male’s intention of transmitting culinary knowledge orally and in writing. The importance of seasoning as a cultural identity trait is also evident, as well as the weight given by families to affection and aesthetics when transforming, serving, and sharing food in both intimate and public tables. The capacity of Mexican consumption spaces and their associated practices to communicate, maintain or increase prestige is observed as well. These results could be comparable with other environments and historical contexts with similar characteristics and deserve further study.

KEYWORDS:

• Cookbook
• Mexican cookbooks
• seasoning
• emotions
• table
• kitchen
• culinary

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Notes

1. ‘San Pascual Bailón, atiza mi fogón y concédeme buena sazón’/‘Ay San Pascualito, que por ollas y cazuelas brincas, corres, casi vuelas, dale a mi pipián sazón’ (Salmerón, 1858).