The politics of intangible heritage and food fights in Western Asia

Abstract

This article critically examines the nationalistic uses to which UNESCO’s 2003 Convention on intangible heritage is put in Western Asia by looking at the conflicts it initiated amongst the countries in the region over the ownership of shared culinary traditions. I first detail the conflict that has arisen between Armenia and Turkey over the ownership of keşkek dish after its inscription in the Convention’s Representative List on behalf of Turkey in 2011. Then I discuss the ownership conflicts over tolma dish and lavash bread that ensued in the region following the listing of keşkek. Examined together, these cases demonstrate that while the Convention strongly influences the current processes of heritagization of food in Western Asia, these processes do not primarily serve the Convention’s purposes of safeguarding intangible heritage and ensuring mutual appreciation of it. The Convention rather functions as a source of nationalism in the region to identify and legitimate transnational food traditions as national heritage and to prevent other countries from laying claims over them.

Keywords:

• UNESCO
• intangible heritage
• food
• nationalism
• Western Asia

Notes

1. See also, ‘Harissa as Turkish national dish on the UNESCO list.’ Aravot, December 1, 2011; Mkrtchyan, Gayane ‘Stir This UNESCO!: Food fight underway to annul slight over harisa.’ Armenia Now, December 8, 2011; ‘Is harisa Armenian or Turkish dish?’ Armenia News, May 17, 2012.

2. See also, ‘Keşkek kararı Ermenistan’ı kızdırdı [Keşkek Decision Outraged Armenia].’ Taraf Daily, December 4, 2011; ‘Keşkek Türk Yemeği Değil (!) [Keşkek is not a Turkish Dish (!)]’ Akşam Daily, December 4, 2011; ‘Keşkek’e Talip Çıktı! [There is a Suitor for Keşkek].’ Milliyet Daily, December 7, 2011.

3. The statement can be accessed at http://www.unesco.org.tr/dokumanlar/basın_aciklamasi/toren_k_d.pdf.

4. The article can be accessed at http://amkm.kulina.az/?p=1775&lang=az.

5. See also, ‘Armenia to Host Festival of Stolen Dolma.’ News.Az, July 7, 2012. http://news.az/articles/armenia/63898; ‘Stolen Food Festival in Armenia.’ Top News Azerbaijan, July 17, 2014. http://topnews.az/en/news/124051/Stolen-food-festival-in-Armenia.html.

6. See, ‘Some Countries Claim Iranian Cultural Heritage.’ Iran Daily, December 5, 2014; ‘Iran official: Lavash is Armenian word and Armenia is motherland of lavash’ Panorama Online News Agency, February 17, 2014. http://www.panorama.am/en/news/2014/02/17/lavash/349639; ‘Armenia Trata de Apropiarse del Patrimonio Cultural Iraní [Armenia Tries to Appropriate Iranian Cultural Heritage]’, Hispantv.com, February 17, 2014. http://hispantv.com/newsdetail/htv/111724/armenia-trata-de-apropiarse-del-patrimonio-cultural-iran.

7. ‘Lavaş, Ermenistan’ın Kültürel Mirası Oldu.’ Milliyet Daily, November 27, 2014; ‘Lavaşı Ermenistan’a Kaptırdık.’ Takvim Daily, November 27, 2014; ‘Milli Ekmeğimizi Elimizden Aldılar.’ Yeni Asya, November 26, 2014; ‘UNESCO'dan Türkiye'ye lavaş şoku’ Bugün Daily, November 27, 2014.

8. See, ‘Armenian provocation on “Lavash” in UNESCO prevented – Ministry.’ Azerbaijan State News Agency, December 3, 2014. http://azertag.az/en/xeber/Armenian_provocation_on_Lavash_in_ UNESCO_prevented-815179.