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Abstract
In this paper I draw upon Foucault's concept of the clinic, as well as his later work on the ‘care of the self’, in a consideration of the problems that are diagnosed, and the treatments that take place, within the beauty salon. As biotechnology descends to the sub-molecular level, so those spaces that are linked to the laboratory through the diffusion of knowledges, practices and material products—such as the salon—are also reworked. Traditionally the locus for an array of experts in both body and mind who instruct (mostly) women on how to care for the self, salons use a series of ‘cutting edge’ treatments to pamper and groom the body, correcting as it does so various problem areas such as the skin. I argue, using interview material from salon managers and employees, for the beauty salon as a key site wherein health and medical knowledge is disseminated, and the clinical gaze is brought to bear.
Dans cet article, j'utilise le concept Foucaultien de clinique, ainsi que son travail ultérieur sur le «souci de souci», dans une considération des problèmes qui sont diagnostiqués, et les traitements qui ont lieu dans un salon de beauté. Alors que la biotechnologie descend jusqu'au niveau sub-moléculaire, ces espaces qui sont liés au laboratoire au travers de la diffusion des connaissances, des pratiques et des produits matériaux—comme le salon—sont aussi remaniés. Traditionnellement le lieu pour une variété d'experts en matière de corps ainsi que de tête qui instruisent (pour la plupart) les femmes sur la manière de prendre soin de soi-même, les salons de beauté utilisent une série des traitements «avant-gardistes» pour dorloter et toiletter le corps, corrigeant pendant qu'il s'occupe de régions problématiques comme celle de la peau. Je soutiens, en utilisant comme matériaux des entretiens avec de directeurs de salons de beauté et avec d'employés, que le salon de beauté considéré comme site clé dans lequel la connaissance médicale et celle de la santé sont disséminées et où le regard médical est appliqué.
En este papel utilizo el concepto de la clínica de Foucault, también como su trabajo posterior en ‘el autocuidado,’ para considerar los problemas que están diagnosticados, y los tratamientos que ocurren, al dentro de la peluquería. Mientras la biotecnología se desciende al nivel submolecular, los espacios conectados al laboratorio através la difusión de conocimientos, prácticas y productos—como la peluquería—también están reutilizados. Tradicionalmente funcionando como el centro de pericia, enseñando a mujeres (generalmente) como cuidar al cuerpo y mente, a peluquerías utilizan una serie de tratamientos ‘avanzados’ para mimar y arreglar el cuerpo, corrigiendo las áreas problemáticas como la piel. Utilizando entrevistas con los empleos y gerentes de peluquerías, discuto que la peluquería es un sitio clave donde el conocimiento médico está diseminado, y la mirada clínica está implementada.
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Acknowledgements
I am extremely grateful to Deborah Dixon, firstly for realising the potential of this paper, and secondly, for her close reading and constructive comments. Thanks also to Pete Merriman, Jill Straughan and to three anonymous referees for their critical but encouraging observations and suggestions. I would also like to thank the salon staff who took the time to share their experiences and offer insight into the ‘doing’ of their work. This research was undertaken with APRS funding from Aberystwyth University.
Notes
1 It is important to point out here that these cosmetics worked within the context of the 1938 Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act of Congress passed in the USA by the Food and Drug Administration, which ‘explicitly stated that cosmetics must not affect either the structure or function of the skin’ if they were not to be classed as a drug (Diana and Draelos Citation2000: vii).
2 NVQ stands for National Vocational Qualification. These are work-based awards which are gained through processes of assessment and training, available in England, Wales and Northern Ireland.
3 All of salons were similar in terms of ethos and salon layout; front of shop areas were always very tidy and clean, products displayed so that customers could to read and consider their contents and in each salon the need for continual training was considered important. Whether the salon leaned more towards providing a functional or therapeutic service, holistic approaches ran through each interview such that it was not just the body that was described as being treated, but the mind/soul as well. The main differences came with geographical location: Aberystwyth beauticians highlighted the problem of continually keeping up to date with industry developments due to the lack of ‘reps’ who make it to the town to promote product. In connection, training is also harder to gain for workers in these provincial salons as training venues for specific products are located miles away.