Investigating Markers of Authenticity: The Weavers’ Perspective Insights from a Study on Bhutanese Hand-woven Kira Textiles

Abstract

In spite of recent changes in technology, skills, materials, production, design and marketing that have impacted on traditional Bhutanese hand-woven 'kiras' (the traditional national dress for Bhutanese women), the textile today still remains essentially ‘Bhutanese’. Through engaging with the weaving community to understand and identify the markers of authenticity of Bhutanese hand-woven kira textiles, this study aims to answer the question what makes a kira, a kira? By examining the responses of weavers and observing a wide range of kiras worn, the findings are analyzed through various theories of authenticity. This study proposes that physical markers of authenticity of hand-woven kira textiles are to be found in a framework comprising the weaver’s intention, the cultural context and the psyche of Bhutanese society.

Keywords:

• Bhutan
• hand-woven textiles
• kira
• authenticity
• Gross National Happiness

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Joseph Lo

Joseph Lo is a PhD graduate from School of Textiles and Design, Heriot-Watt University. His interest on culture, design and development, and cultural industries has led him to work as a consultant with various UN agencies and INGOs in Asia.

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Lisa Macintyre

Lisa Macintyre is a lecturer in textile technology at the School of Textiles and Design, Heriot-Watt University. Her PhD evaluated textiles for use in hypertrophic burn scar treatment and won the University’s Macfarlane Prize for outstanding contribution in 2004. Her main area of research continues to be in textiles for medical compression products but she has also undertaken projects in product development, ethical production and use of sustainable materials.

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Britta Kalkreuter

Britta Kalkreuter, graduated with a PhD in Art History from Cologne University and is Associate Professor in Design Context at the School of Textiles and Design, Heriot-Watt University. Her research currently focuses on participatory, cross cultural and collaborative design and making practices.

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