Dyeing of silk fabric with natural dyes extracted from cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) and gall oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier)

ABSTRACT

Silk fabric samples were mordanted with alum [KAl(SO₄)₂.12H₂O]. Then, the samples were dyed with cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) and gall oak (Quercus infectoria Olivier) shellac extracts. Optimum dyeing parameters were determined by using different concentrations of these natural colorants. All the dyed samples were cut into two equal pieces. One group of the parts were post-mordanted with FeSO₄. A reserved-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC) with the diode-array detection (DAD) method was utilized for the identification of the components of dyes present in the all dyed and post-mordanted samples. The color coordinates and fastness values of washing, perspiration, rubbing, and light were investigated and compared with each other. Using a mixture of these natural dyes enhanced the exhaustion of the dye and good color fastness test results were achieved.

摘要

真丝织物样品媒染明矾[KAl(SO₄)₂.12H₂O]。然后，样品染胭脂红（Dactylopius coccus Costa）、栎五倍子（quercusinfectoria Olivier）虫胶提取物。用不同浓度的天然色素测定了最佳染色工艺参数。所有染色的样品被切成两等份。一组零件后媒染与FeSO₄。反相高效液相色谱法(RP-HPLC)与二极管阵列检测器（DAD）法对所有染后媒染染料样品成分鉴定。研究了洗涤、汗渍、摩擦、光照的色坐标和牢度值，并进行了比较。使用这些天然染料的混合物提高了染料的消耗，并取得了良好的色牢度试验结果。

KEYWORDS:

• Dactylopius coccus Costa
• dyeing
• natural dye
• natural fibers
• Quercus infectoria Olivier
• silk

关键词:

• 染色
• 天然染料
• 天然纤维
• 丝绸