Development of functional wool fabric by treatment with aqueous and alkaline extracts of Cinnamomum camphora plant leaves

ABSTRACT

This work is carried out in search of natural alternatives to synthetic dyes capable of imparting functional properties. Natural dye from camphor plant (Cinnamomum camphora) was extracted under two extraction mediums: aqueous and alkaline. The obtained extract was converted into powder and applied on wool fabric using exhaust method of dyeing for evaluation of their dyeing and functional properties. Color strength of each dyed material was measured in terms of the K/S and CIELAB values, while the color fastness to light, washing, and crocking was investigated using standard test methods. The ultraviolet protection and antimicrobial properties were measured using American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standard test methods. The K/S values, ultraviolet protection factor, and antimicrobial property of samples dyed with alkaline extract were higher as compared to those dyed with aqueous extract. Fastness towards washing and rubbing was found to be excellent, but the light fastness was poor which can be improved by mordanting in future work. Moreover, a slight decrease in washing fastness was observed with increase in shade depth.

摘要

本文主要研究一种能够替代合成染料并具有功能性质的天然染料。本文用水提和碱提两种方式提取樟树（Cinnamomum camphora）天然染料。将得到的提取物制成粉末，并对羊毛织物进行染色，评价其染色性能和功能性。用K/S和CIE值测量每种染色材料的颜色强度，使用标准试验方法研究了耐光色牢度、洗涤色牢度和摩擦色牢度，并且根据AATCC标准试验方法测量紫外线防护和抗菌性能。通过测试数据得出：碱性提取染色样品的K/S值、紫外保护因子（UPF）和抗菌性能均高于水提染色的样品。耐洗涤和摩擦牢度优良，耐光牢度较差，可在今后的研究中得到改善。此外，随着色泽深度的增加，洗涤牢度略有下降。

KEYWORDS:

• Natural dyes
• Cinnamomum camphora (camphor plant)
• ultraviolet protection factor
• antimicrobial property
• natural dyeing of wool
• UV blocking

关键词:

• 天然染料
• 樟树天然染料
• 羊毛染色
• 色牢度