Sustainability of Organic Cotton Fabric Dyeing with a Natural Dye (Gallnut) and Analysis by Multi-technique Approach

ABSTRACT

In this study, six organic cotton interlock knitting fabric were dyed using gallnut (Quercus infectoria Olivier) four of them were treated with FeSO₄.7H₂O as post-mordant. The dyed fabrics were analyzed by different analytical and technical methods such as CIEL*a*b*, surface-pH meter, HPLC-DAD, SEM-EDX, FTIR, fastness and antimicrobial tests. Identified dyestuffs with HPLC-DAD were gallic acid, ellagic acid, and their derivatives. In the all dyed fabrics, the detected elements with SEM-EDX are oxygen, silicon, calcium, and sodium. The iron element was found in four dyeings using post mordant. The highest iron percentage are dyeings with a dyeing time of 30 min. The fastness results were good in general. The test of rubbing fastness was 4–5 in dry and the lowest 3 in wet. Washing fastness was found as 4–5 for all fabrics. The antimicrobial test was also carried out against gram-positive bacterium. The results of antimicrobial test against gram-positive bacterium were determined above 91%. Lastly, the dyed fabrics were analyzed by FTIR for determination of the interaction among dye, mordant metal, and cotton fabric. All the dyeings were initially carried out under laboratory conditions, and then applied to jet dyeing machine as protative and sustainable at large scale.

摘要

采用五倍子（Quercus infectoria olivier）对6种棉织物进行染色，其中4种用FeSo4.7H2O作后处理剂. 采用CIEL*a*b*、表面ph计、HPLC-DAD、SEM-EDX、FTIR、染色牢度和抗菌测试等分析技术对染色织物进行分析. 用高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测器（HPLC-DAD）鉴定染料为没食子酸、鞣花酸及其衍生物。在所有染色织物中，SEM-EDX检测的元素为氧、硅、钙和钠. 在四种后媒染剂染色中发现了铁元素. 铁含量最高的是染色时间为30分钟的染色. 总的来说，牢度结果很好. 干摩擦牢度为4-5，湿摩擦牢度最低为3.所有织物的洗涤牢度均为4-5. 对革兰阳性菌进行了抗菌试验. 对革兰阳性菌的抗菌试验结果均在91%以上. 最后，用FTIR对染色织物进行了分析，确定了染料、媒染剂金属与棉织物之间的相互作用. 所有的染色都是在实验室条件下进行的，然后作为保护性和可持续性大规模应用于喷射染色机.

KEYWORDS:

• Organic cotton
• gallnut
• jet dyeing
• sustainable natural dyeing
• antimicrobial activity
• nontoxic textiles

关键词:

• 有机棉
• 五倍子
• 喷射染色
• 可持续自然染色
• 抗菌活性
• 无毒纺织品

Acknowledgments

This study was supported by TUBITAK (The Scientific and Technological Resource Council of Turkey) under the project no. 7150407. The authors would like to thank the Turkish Cultural Foundation (TCF) due to its basic laboratory infrastructure and support (www.turkishculturalfoundation.org; www.tcfdatu.org; www.armaggan.com). Moreover, the authors thank Assoc. Prof. Dr. Seyda Polat from Kocaeli University, Faculty of Engineering, Department of Metallurgical and Materials Engineering for her critical review.