Low-Stress Mechanical Properties of Wool-Cotton Blended Fabrics

ABSTRACT

Hand-spun and hand-woven textiles made of natural fibers are known as khadi fabrics. Khadi fabrics are known for their luxury, excellent handle, and comfort properties. These properties can not be obtained using the methods employed for machine-made textiles. The fabric handle is associated with low-stress mechanical properties. In this work, the low-stress mechanical properties of wool-cotton blended khadi fabrics are studied and the effect of different blend proportions of wool fibers and yarn count on the fabric properties is investigated. The combination of different wool varieties was spun using a hand-operated spinning machine (charkha) and used as weft, while the various cotton-wool blends were employed as warp. A total of 27 types of wool-cotton khadi fabrics were woven on a handloom. The low-stress mechanical properties were measured using the SiroFAST system. It was found that the extensibility, formability, shear rigidity, bending rigidity, relaxation shrinkage, and hygral expansions of fabrics were influenced by the proportions of wool blend/mix and yarn linear density. The shear and bending rigidity of wool-cotton fabric are significantly influenced by the wool content in wool-cotton blended warp yarn as well as the proportion of AM wool in weft yarn (p < .001). From a formability point of view, wool-cotton fabrics perform well during garment manufacturing irrespective of a wool type. Relaxation Shrinkage in wool-cotton fabric is higher in warp wise than weft wise and increases with increasing the amount of wool for each type of fabric. The wool dominant fabric has higher hygral expansion in the weft direction than the warp direction.

摘要

由天然纤维制成的手纺和手织纺织品被称为卡迪织物. 卡迪面料以其奢华、出色的手感和舒适性而闻名. 使用机器制造的纺织品所采用的方法无法获得这些性能. 织物手柄与低应力机械性能有关。本文研究了毛棉混纺卡迪织物的低应力力学性能，研究了不同混纺比例和纱线支数对织物性能的影响. 采用手工纺纱机（charkha）纺制不同羊毛品种的组合纱，并将其作为纬纱，采用不同的棉毛带作为经纱。在手摇织机上共织出27种毛棉卡迪织物. 采用SIRO-FAST系统测试了低应力力学性能. 研究发现，羊毛混纺/混纺比例和纱线线密度对织物的拉伸性能、成形性能、剪切刚度、弯曲刚度、松弛收缩和湿胀性均有影响. 毛棉混纺经纱含毛量和AM毛在纬纱中的比例对毛棉织物的剪切和弯曲刚度有显著影响（p<0.001）. 从可成形性的角度来看，无论羊毛类型如何，毛棉织物在服装制造过程中都表现良好. 毛棉织物的松弛收缩率在经纬向上高于纬向，并且随着每种织物中羊毛含量的增加而增加. 以羊毛为主的织物在纬纱方向的湿膨胀比经纱方向的湿膨胀大.

KEYWORDS:

• Cotton
• khadi spinning system
• low- stress mechanical properties
• light-weight fabric
• wool

关键词:

• 棉花
• 卡迪纺纱系统
• 低应力力学性能
• 轻质面料
• 羊毛