Effects of Yarn, Fabric and Machine Parameters on the Dimensional Properties of Weft Knitted Single Jersey Fabric

ABSTRACT

Weft knit fabrics are popular for traditional wear because of their elastic and light structures, gentle smoothness, low production costs, and high productivity. However, due to asymmetrical loop formation, spirality causes serious dimensional problems in single jersey fabrics (SJF). This study investigates the effects of various parameters on spirality, including yarn count, yarn tension, tightness factor, stitch length, fabric weight per unit area, machine speed, needle gauge, and number of feeders. All the sample fabrics were knitted with Z-twisted, combed, 100% cotton yarns and went through a scouring, bleaching, and whitening process before being dried in the same conditions. Fabric spirality was found to increase as stitch length, number of feeders, yarn count, and twists per unit length in constituent yarn increased whereas the tightness factor and needle gauge, on the other hand, had opposite effects on spirality. The test results were analyzed statistically, and a significant impact was discovered.

摘要

纬编针织物因其结构轻巧、弹性好、平滑度低、生产成本低和生产率高而受到传统服装的青睐. 然而, 由于非对称线圈的形成, 螺旋性在单面针织物 (SJF) 中造成了严重的尺寸问题. 本研究调查了各种参数对螺旋度的影响, 包括纱线支数、纱线张力、紧密系数、针距、单位面积织物重量、机器速度、针距和进料器数量. 所有样品织物均采用Z捻、精梳、100%纯棉纱线编织, 并经过煮练、漂白和增白处理, 然后在相同条件下干燥. 研究发现, 织物的螺旋度随着缝纫长度、喂入器数量、纱线数量和纱线单位长度捻度的增加而增加, 而紧度系数和针距对螺旋度有相反的影响. 对测试结果进行了统计分析, 发现了显著影响.

KEYWORDS:

• Spirality
• single jersey
• shrinkage
• stitch length
• tightness factor
• knitting speed
• yarn tension

关键词:

• 灵性
• 单面运动衫
• 收缩
• 针距
• 紧密系数
• 编织速度
• 纱线张力

Acknowledgement

The authors gratefully acknowledge the knitting and dyeing section of GMS composite knitting Industries Ltd. for their support and the Bangladesh University of Textiles for providing testing facilities for all the samples.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Supplementary material

Supplemental data for this article can be accessed online at https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2022.2131682.