Intricate Features of Pashmina Kani Shawl – Overview

ABSTRACT

The present article focuses on the detailed investigation of the traditional pashmina Kani shawls woven in Kashmir. The finest natural fiber Pashmina is used for making widely popular Pashmina Kani shawls by handicraft personals. The study encompasses the raw materials used in making it, the type of handloom, the kani sticks, spinning charkha, along with different spinning attributes associated like doubling, drafting, warping, denting, design, kilpering, and so on. The study also covers minute details about the specialty coded language Talim being used by local craft persons. Different types of dyes both natural and synthetic have been covered. Pashmina shawls manufactured using power looms giving stiff competition to handloom shawls, affecting livelihood of artisans and workers. Moreover purity of the power loom based shawls also lacks purity since instead of using pure wool fiber, wool blended with nylons being used. Looking to that different initiations suggested by central and state government for uplifting the fading artistic decorum have also been incorporated like United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), World Trade Organization (WTO), and Geographical Indications (GI). Suggestions have been also incorporated for the modernization of the loom set up and government steps undertaken for development of the Kani shawls.

摘要

本文重点对克什米尔传统的帕什米纳卡尼披肩进行了详细调查. 最好的天然纤维Pashmina被手工艺人用来制作广受欢迎的Pashmina-Kani披肩. 这项研究包括制造它所用的原材料、手摇织布机的类型、卡尼杆、纺纱纱卡，以及与之相关的不同纺纱属性，如并条、牵伸、整经、凹痕、设计、起毛等. 该研究还涵盖了当地工艺人员使用的专业编码语言塔利姆语的详细信息. 涵盖了天然和合成的不同类型的染料. 使用电动织布机生产的帕什米纳披肩与手工织布披肩竞争激烈，影响了工匠和工人的生计. 此外，基于动力织机的披肩也缺乏纯度，因为使用的不是纯羊毛纤维，而是羊毛与尼龙混纺. 鉴于中央政府和州政府提出的旨在提升日渐衰落的艺术礼仪的不同倡议也被纳入其中，如联合国贸易和发展会议（UNCTAD）、世界贸易组织（WTO）和地理标志（GI）. 此外，还对织机装置的现代化以及政府为开发卡尼披肩而采取的措施提出了建议.

KEYWORDS:

• Pashmina
• kani
• talim
• loom
• spinning
• charkha

关键词:

• 关键词
• 护身符
• 织布机
• 纺纱
• 查尔卡

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).