https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2264-9260
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ABSTRACT
This article examines sociocultural factors that have constrained or encouraged the use of food delivery apps by formal restaurants in Brazil amid the pandemic. Using data from mysterious shopping visits conducted in eight formal restaurants, digital ethnography on their social media accounts, and compilations of food magazine articles, I show that the pandemic worked like a catalyst for the ongoing process of digitalization of food cultures. Despite the growth of delivery apps in recent years, most formal restaurants still tended to view them with suspicion. The decision of using delivery apps still had high symbolic costs, as it could be interpreted as a “utilitarian” attitude – incompatible with the status of refined restaurants. However, the pandemic changed the rules of the game of social distinction in the field of restaurants by making the “appification” a legitimate choice. Thus, a new symbolic struggle began to take place within the digital platforms.
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No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
Notes
1. São Paulo is the fourth largest city in the world, with approximately 12,396,372 inhabitants in 2021, according to an official census estimate from the Brazilian Statistics Institute (IBGE), and it is also a central location for Brazilians eating out practices. In 2018, it was recognized as the “Latin American Capital of Gastronomic Culture” by the Madrid International Tourism Fair as disclosed on the website of the Ministry of Tourism of Brazil on January 18, 2018. At that time, São Paulo had about 20,000 restaurants and 30,000 bars (São Paulo Turismo Citation2017). The city is second only to New York in the ranking of cities with the most restaurants in the world (São Paulo Turismo Citation2017) and currently ranks 7th in the world (and 1st on the American continent) in the “Best Gastronomic Destination” category of the 2022 Traveler’s Choice award, as listed on TripAdvisor’s website. Moreover, it is worth mentioning its prestige among the agents of the Brazilian gastronomic field (food critics, journalists, and chefs), who recognize it as “headquarters of renowned professionals in the area” and “the place that dictates trends […] for its capacity of [international] projection” (Masano Citation2011, 196, my translation).
2. The company describes itself as a provider of “a one-stop local platform for consumers to discover, connect and transact with local businesses of all sizes by making it easy to request a quote, join a waitlist or make a reservation, and make an appointment or purchase”. Available at: < https://www.yelp-press.com/company/fast-facts/default.aspx>.
3. According to their website, “Tripadvisor, the world’s largest travel guidance platform, helps hundreds of millions of people each month become better travelers, from planning to booking to taking a trip. Travelers across the globe use the Tripadvisor site and app to discover where to stay, what to do and where to eat based on guidance from those who have been there before”. Available at: <https://tripadvisor.mediaroom.com/US-about-us>.
4. iFood is a Brazilian delivery platform owned by Movile, Just Eat and Prosus. In addition to Brazil, it also operates in Colombia. Available at: < https://institucional.ifood.com.br/ifood/>.
5. UberEats is a food delivery platform founded in the United States and available in 45 countries. In March of 2022, the company stopped its restaurant delivery in Brazil, shifting its operation in the country to grocery deliveries. Available at: < https://help.uber.com/ubereats/article/when-and-where-is-uber-eats-available-?nodeId=3f8de61e-09dd-4844-afb2-749c9ffc65a8>.
6. Rappi is a Colombian delivery company that, according to its website, “operates in 9 countries all over Latin America and is present in more than 220 cities”. Available at: < https://about.rappi.com/>.
7. Launched in 1997, this magazine is one of the longest-running publications on gastronomy in the city of São Paulo.
8. This magazine was elected by the city council as the best gastronomy magazine in São Paulo four consecutive years. Available at: < https://revistamenu.com.br/menu-e-eleita-a-melhor-revista-de-gastronomia/>.
9. Two of the three most read newspapers nationwide in 2020. Available at: < https://www1.folha.uol.com.br/poder/2021/03/folha-e-o-jornal-mais-nacional-e-o-de-maior-audiencia-e-circulacao.shtml>.
10. At the time the research was carried out, Janaina and Jefferson were married, in addition to being chef-owners and business partners. Recently, the couple split up, but the partnership was maintained and Janaina is still using the surname Rueda.
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Camila Assunção Crumo
Camila Assunção Crumo holds a Master of Arts in Sociology from the University of São Paulo/Brazil, with a fellowship provided by The São Paulo Research Foundation (FAPESP), process n. 18/24266-3. She is also a member of the research group “Digital Sociology and Artificial Intelligence,” linked to the Brazilian Council for Scientific and Technological Development (CNPq) – https://www.digitalsociologyandartificialintelligence.com/. Her main areas of research are Sociology of food and eating; Social media; Social determinants of taste; Cultural distinction; and Digital differentiation strategies.