Soccer and the city: the game and its fans in Solo and Yogyakarta

Abstract

Football fandom and sports culture are largely neglected in studies of Indonesia. This is despite the highly complex nature of football fandom in Indonesian cities. This essay draws on experiences in two cities in central Java: Yogyakarta and Solo. Contemporary football culture in Solo and Yogyakarta is linked to the policies of decentralization that have emerged in the post-New Order (1998 onwards) and to the deeply contested identity politics. The essay privileges the perspective of a capo (dirigen, conductor) from Solo in articulating the experience of identifying with a particular football club (Persis Solo) and that of an ex-player of PSS Sleman from the province of Yogyakarta. It explores how football culture plays a vital role in the establishment and maintenance of, and contestation over city and urban identity.

Notes

1. I primarily use the word ‘soccer’ over ‘football’. For my purposes, ‘soccer’ is the term for ‘football’ in a specific, local context, in comparison to the game of ‘football’ that is understood at a global level.

2. Fights often break out between rival supporter groups on the streets of Yogyakarta, or as fans travel between cities. In the aftermath of the PSS Sleman–PSIS Semarang ‘elephant football' (match-fixing scandal) fans of PSIM erected provocative banners showing their pleasure at the penalties handed out to the neighbouring PSS Sleman.

3. The largest national newspaper, Kompas, has a relatively short sports section. It gives little coverage to the ISL and as good as none to the Divisi Utama. The main domestic sports news stories are reserved for badminton players and the national football team. Otherwise, sports coverage prioritises more global sports, such as English Premier League or Formula One.

4. For example, crowds of football fans make their way through city streets while revving their engines.

5. To many fans’ embarrassment, the national team lost 0–4 to the Philippines during the 2014 AFF tournament in Vietnam. This loss meant that Indonesia couldn’t qualify for the knockout stage of the tournament. In 2002, Indonesia beat Philippines 13–1 in Jakarta. While watching the Indonesia–Philippines game, I was immediately told that the Philippines players weren’t real Filipinos, but, were all imports.

6. The doubtable integrity of the competition, however, does affect the mood of the crowd. One of the roles of the conductors during the Persis Solo games at Manahan Stadium which I attended was to make sure that the crowd presented a united showing in accusing the referees of cheating. Once the conductors (two each at the north, south and east stands) were given the go-ahead, the masses of supporters waved rupiah notes while chanting, ‘the referee has been bribed’. Conversation with Andre Jaran (conductor of Pasoepati, B7), 20 October 2014, Solo.

7. I would later find out through conversations with members of The Maident that members of BCS had asked them whether or not they would be involved in ‘sweeping’ against PSCS Cilacap fans as they passed through Yogyakarta on their way back from Solo. They replied that they wouldn’t be doing any sweeping. The members of The Maident informed me that BCS wanted to check with them because they were fearful of confronting them on the streets of Yogya.

8. This led to another series of Twitter conversations. Anom, a renowned Yogya-based Bonek and brawler, was quickly using Twitter and SMS to determine the ‘official’ stance that Bonek 1927 would take against BCS. Bonek 1927 supporters are ‘supporters without a team’, according to the Yogya-based Bonek, Cak Tulus. As such Bonek 1927 often attend games with other supporters, as a means of enjoying soccer, but, also of creating stronger alliances in their ongoing conflict with the PSSI.

9. In the wake of PSS Sleman’s punishment of two ‘banishment games’ (partai usiran), fans bought virtual tickets for the games as a means of making up for any lost takings.

10. ‘Celebration’ is used by Fajar Junaedi in the title of his book: MerayakanSepak Bola : Fans, Identitas dan Media. From August to December 2014 in Yogyakarta, Solo and Surabaya, I witnessed far more signs of struggle, incomprehension, disillusion and disappointment amongst soccer fans.