Old Shoes in a New Perspective—Fashioning Archaeology

Abstract

The article addresses the challenge of combining the very diverse fields of archaeology and fashion. The Museum of Copenhagen has carried out a number of major archaeological excavations that have contributed substantially to the museum’s footwear collection, now consisting of approximately 6500 shoes and shoe parts. An ongoing PhD project aims to investigate aspects that affected Copenhageners’ footwear in the period 1200–1800 AD, and to explore the relationship between craft and the functional and fashion-related aspects of how footwear developed, was designed and worn. The shoes themselves, written and iconographic sources, natural sciences and experimental collaborations with modern-day shoemakers and foot specialists shed new light on our understanding of footwear history. Footwear was originally invented to protect feet against natural and climatic conditions, but it also became an indicator of how we want to be seen by others—with fashion seemingly being a crucial aspect of how and why footwear developed the way it did. In the analysis of the choice and need dichotomy there are interesting approaches in the theory of human‒thing entanglement and engaging archaeologically with the fashion phenomenon that can bring new perspectives on past, present and future.

Keywords:

• archaeology
• footwear
• interdisciplinarity
• fashion
• human‒thing entanglement

Notes

1. Definition from http://ordnet.dk/ddo/ordbog?query=mode

2. Human‒thing entanglement is defined as part of Ian Hodder’s Entanglement Theory: people depend on things, things depend on other things (for example in the manufacturing process), things are dependent on people (to be created and maintained) by which the interaction is developing continuously in a self-reinforcing pattern of dependence.

3. In Denmark, the medieval period is defined as being around 1000–1536 AD.

4. In Denmark, the Renaissance is defined as being around 1536–1660 AD.

5. In Denmark, Absolutism is defined as being around 1660–1848 AD.

6. Suede leather is made from the underside of the animal’s skin. Because suede does not include the tough exterior skin layer, it is less durable but softer than standard leather. Due to its textured nature and open pores, suede quickly absorbs liquids and becomes dirty easily.

7. This is according to the shoemakers and volunteer workers at the Medieval Centre on Falster in Southern Seeland, Denmark.

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Vivi Lena Andersen

Vivi Lena Andersen is Curator and archaeologist at the Museum of Copenhagen, Denmark, and she is an Industrial PhD student at the Saxo-Institute, University of Copenhagen in affiliation to the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research. She has worked with archaeological footwear since 2001 and carries out assignments as shoe consultant for museums, conservation centers, universities and private companies. [email protected]