Expert versus Novice Assessment of Clothing Fit; an Exploratory Study Using Eye Tracking Technology

Abstract

An analysis was conducted of the differences between expert and novice apparel practitioner’s areas of attention and criteria when assessing the fit of a shirt, using goggle type eye-trackers and a questionnaire. The areas of interest (AOIs) which the expert group viewed longer than the novice group during fit assessment were at the collar, waist, side seam line, and dart; the novice group viewed across the front, the waist, and the hem area longer. Also, experts viewed the armhole more frequently than novices. Heat map records of viewing time showed that the gaze of the experts was distributed, viewing the waist, hem, side seam line, dart, and armhole, but the novices generally spent concentrated time assessing the front of the shirts. In the assessment items that were identified through questionnaires, the novices did not acknowledge fit criteria such as the verticality and balance of the front and back of the shirt at the side seam, hem balance, depth and width of the armholes, slope of the shoulders, bicep height, or grainline. The study identified AOIs and fit criteria that differed between the expert and novice groups providing results to inform training needs for novices in fit analysis.

Keywords:

• fit evaluation
• eye tracking
• shirts
• novice
• expert

Disclosure Statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Additional information

Funding

This work was supported by the National Research Foundation of Korea Grant funded by the Korean Government (grant no. NRF-2014S1A5A8012676).

Notes on contributors

Hwa Kyung Song

Hwa Kyung Song earned a Ph.D. degree in the Department of Fiber Science & Apparel Design at Cornell University, and she is an Associate Professor in the Department of Clothing and Textiles at Kyung Hee University. Her recent research topics include body shape analysis using 3D body scan data, automated made-to-measure pattern making process, apparel fit and sizing. [email protected]

Youngsook Kim

Youngsook Kim (MA Kyung Hee University) is a doctoral student in the Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design, College of Human Ecology at Cornell University. Kim’s research focuses on product development by using three-dimensional technologies, such as 3D body scanning and 3D digital design, and testing apparel sizing and fit in 3D virtual worlds. [email protected]

Susan P. Ashdown

Susan P. Ashdown is the Helen G. Canoyer professor in the Department of Fiber Science & Apparel Design at Cornell University. They study the effects of emerging technologies in the apparel industry: 3D body scanning, mass customization, and environmental sustainability. [email protected]