Fashion Cycles of Punks and the Mainstream: A US Based Study of Symbols and Silhouettes

Abstract

This research focuses on fashion cycles of punk merchandising interacting with the mainstream. Punks’ perceptions of subcultural styles change as the garments move through cycles internal to the scene, and as the looks are disseminated into mainstream society, furthermore as the individuals age. The framework for this study is the entirety of the punk movement in North America: Punks self-identified within the movement without boundaries of time and definition, and therefore the time frame stretches from the 1970s to present day. Data were gathered from self-identified punks in the United States through qualitative mixed methods including an online survey of open ended questions, in-person interviews, archive visits, and social media discussion groups. Findings indicate that over time as the underground punk styles move into mass usage the subcultural silhouettes, or general shape of the garments follow bell curve fashion cycles with little objection from original punk wearers. However, when it comes to punk symbols, such as band logos or iconic in-scene pictorial references, this same progression through fashion cycles tends to be met with resistance from former and current subcultural members. Many punks maintain feelings of attachment to subcultural symbols as they grow older and go through their personal life and stylistic cycles, yet they are more comfortable relinquishing the shapes of subcultural garments to the masses. This research highlights the complications of insular cultures who influence the mainstream and addresses concepts of aesthetics, merchandising, authenticity, and appropriation using punk style as a way to consider design communicating identity and community.

Keywords:

• punk
• subculture
• aesthetics
• fashion cycles
• merchandising

Acknowledgements

We appreciate the initial concept and writing assistance by UGA graduate research assistant Ariana Gibson-Rivera, and research support from the University of Georgia Willson Center for Humanities and Art, Pasold Research Fund, and Costume Society of America.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Monica Sklar

Monica Sklar, Ph.D., is an Assistant Professor of fashion history & merchandising and Liaison to the Historic Clothing and Textiles Collection at the University of Georgia as well as Vice President of Technology of the Costume Society of America. She is the author of the book Punk Style (2013) and frequent writer and public speaker on subculture and design, as she is also a longtime participant in the punk scene. [email protected]

Sharon Autry

Sharon Autry is a recent graduate of the University of Georgia majoring in Fashion Merchandising with an emphasis on Product Development and Design and minoring in English.

Lauren Klas

Lauren Klas is a recent graduate of the University of Georgia majoring in Marketing and International Business and minoring in French and Fashion Merchandising.