Systemic Circular Innovation: Barriers, Windows of Opportunity and An Analysis of Brazil’s Apparel Scenario

Abstract

The textile industry has a significant role in the globalized market. However, this sector is responsible for extensive social and environmental impacts, that comprise unhealthy work conditions, huge pollution footprint, and intensive throw-away practices. Aiming to promote solutions to these problems, this paper traces the barriers and windows of opportunity for a transition to a circular economy, taking as an example the Brazilian textile and apparel industry. We examine the current Brazilian textile scenario using the multi-level perspective through three methodological approaches: desk research, workshops, and interviews. Our results indicate that, although the Brazilian textile industry still operates mainly in a linear way, focusing on competitiveness and short-term opportunities, there are great niche examples that are gaining traction and inspiring larger organizations, promoting innovative and circular ways to create and capture value. The socio-technical transition to a circular economy encompasses the identification and creation of conditions through windows of opportunity such as circular mindset, collaboration among stakeholders, education, investment, market forces, and public policies, which support process and technological changes in the textile and apparel industry. In summary, our research comprises the major challenges faced by the Brazilian textile industry in its current scenario and present enablers to endorse the shift towards a circular economy.

Graphical Abstract

Keywords:

• circular economy
• textile
• apparel
• multi-level perspective
• socio-technical systems

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Supplemental data

Supplemental data for this article is available online at https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2021.1987645

Notes

1 Such as IMF – International Monetary Fund and WTO – World Trade Organisation.

2 Such as IBGE – Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics and ABIT – Brazilian Association of Textile and Clothing Industry.

3 As no Brazilian apparel brand has been identified to operate within this circular business model, we provided a British example.

4 https://www.texindexbrasil.com.br/

5 https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/transparency/

Additional information

Funding

This study was financed in part by the Ministry of Education of Brazil (Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior—CAPES), Finance Code 001 and CAPES ID: BEX 1081136, and grant 2019/07874-2, São Paulo Research Foundation (FAPESP). This work was carried out with the support of CNPq, Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico—Brazil [133795/2019-5]. The authors would also like to extend this acknowledgment to the C&A Foundation and interviewed companies for their collaboration.

Notes on contributors

G. M. Gomes

G. M. Gomes* (corresponding author) is an Environmental Engineer, graduated from the São Carlos School of Engineering - University of São Paulo. Currently, she is a graduate student (direct doctorate) in Production Engineering (EESC - USP) at the Circular Economy and Innovation program, in partnership with the Environmental Psychology group at the University of Groningen. Giovana’s research focuses on clothing consumers’ behaviors and mindsets towards a circular economy. [email protected]

N. Moreira

N. Moreira is an interdisciplinary researcher and Project Manager with a technical focus on sustainable materials and supply chains. With a strong technical research and publication record, Natalia has been in the field of product development since 2007, advising global fashion brands and completing research on sustainable textiles for action-oriented change projects, and contributing to vital academic debates on sustainability. Natalia also has an interest in software development and has skills and client relationships in this area (in countries such as Canada, the UK, Italy, Brazil, and Germany). Natalia’s research emphasizes direct engagement with diverse stakeholder groups involved in product supply chains, which has enabled her to successfully develop new models of sustainability futures and systems thinking in her research. [email protected]

D. R. Iritani

D. R. Iritani is graduated in Environmental Engineering from the University of São Paulo (2009), holds a master’s (2013) and PhD (2017) degree in Production from the University of São Paulo. He is the founder of Upcycle, and his interests are Life Cycle Management, Sustainability and Business Process Management. [email protected]

W. A. Amaral

W. A. Amaral obtained his PhD and M.A. degrees from Harvard University, USA. He also holds a Master of Sciences degree from the University of Sao Paulo (USP), Brazil. His research and professional interests are in the areas of biofuels and sustainable use of biodiversity, forest genetic resources, biotechnology and biosafety, sustainable development and public policy. He is currently a professor at the University of São Paulo. [email protected]

A. R. Ometto

A. R. Ometto holds a degree in Production Engineering - Chemistry from the Federal University of São Carlos (1997), a master's degree in Environmental Engineering Sciences from the University of São Paulo (2000) and a doctorate in Hydraulic Engineering and Sanitation from the University of São Paulo (2005). He is currently a professor at the University of São Paulo, a researcher at the Millennium Factory Institute and the Advanced Manufacturing Center. He has experience in the Product Life Cycle Engineering area, working mainly on the following themes: environmental suitability of companies, life cycle assessment, corporate environmental management, environmental impact assessment, ecodesign and cleaner production. [email protected]