The importance of friction between hand and hold in rock climbing

Abstract

Friction is one of the key parameters of climbing. The further away the centre of mass is from the wall, the more friction force is required at the hands. The more weight is shifted from the hands to the feet, the smaller is the friction force at the hands and the closer is the climber to the point of impending slippage. The more experienced a climber is, the closer is the friction coefficient (the ratio of friction to normal force) to the point of impending slippage. The coefficient of friction contributes together, and combined with, other performance parameters (impulse, smoothness factor) to the overall climbing performance. Sixty-four per cent of the coefficient of friction cannot be explained from an influence of other performance parameters. Powder chalk on the hand and fingers alone enhances the coefficient of friction, whereas chalk on both hand and holds reduces the coefficient of friction.

Keywords:

• rock climbing
• friction
• free-body diagram
• static friction coefficient
• climbing wall
• climbing hold
• performance parameters
• chalk