New Approaches for Textile Colouration and Surface Pattern Using Enzyme-based Biotechnology

Abstract

The research presented in this paper gives an overview of a study which was undertaken to investigate the potential offered by the enzyme laccase (EC.1.10.3.2) as a creative design tool for innovative colouration and decorative surface pattern of textiles with a focus on providing sustainable alternatives to conventional processes used in industry. Research was conducted in two parts. The control (scientific) phase explored laccases potential for transforming a range of colourless aromatic compounds into coloured polymeric products via its reaction mechanism, and its ability to facilitate the colouration of most commonly used textile fibre types. Reaction processing parameters such as temperature, pH values, aromatic compound concentrations, and reaction times were investigated to achieve a diverse colour palette, ranging from light–medium to dark shades of blue, green, pink, purple, and yellow hues. Wool and nylon fibre types were found to be most suitable for laccase-catalyzed colouration. The creative phase investigated the design potential offered by the enzymatic colouration process developed; different and contrasting substantivity properties offered by various fibre types were exploited to produce shadow, reserve, and contrasting coloured effects on specially woven jacquard fabrics. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase as a transformative tool to replace conventional industrial colouration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile industry transition towards a sustainable future.

Keywords:

• Biotechnology
• enzymes
• laccase
• surface pattern
• textile colouration

Acknowledgments

The authors would like to thank the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) for funding the collaborative LEBIOTEX Project (AH/J002666/1) between De Montfort University and Loughborough University, in addition to the support from the industrial partner Camira Fabrics. The authors would also like to thank Novozymes for supplying the enzyme used in this study.

Disclosure Statement

The authors have no conflict of interest to declare.

Additional information

Funding

The work was supported by the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) under Grant number: AH/J002666/1.

Notes on contributors

Chetna D. Prajapati

Chetna Prajapati is a Lecturer in Textiles based within the School of Design and Creative Arts at Loughborough University, UK. Her research is dynamic and wide-ranging spanning across the breadth of the textile discipline which explore design for circularity and sustainability, complex histories embedded in textiles, or the use of textile-based interventions in healthcare.

Edward Smith

Edward Smith is a dye and textile chemist based in the Textile Engineering and Research Group at De Montfort University, Leicester. His current research interests are in bast fibre processing and textile biotechnology. He has a PhD in Colour and Polymer Chemistry from the University of Leeds.

Faith Kane

Faith Kane is a design researcher and educator working in the field of textiles and materials. Her research interests include design for sustainability, place-based design, collaborative working in the design/science space and the role and value of craft knowledge within these contexts. She is an Associate Professor at the School of Design within the College of Creative Arts at Massey University in Wellington New Zealand.

Jinsong Shen

Jinsong Shen is Professor of Textile Chemistry and Biotechnology at the School of Fashion and Textiles, and director of Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group, De Montfort University. His current interests lie in the areas of textile biotechnology, sol-gel technology, nanotechnology and flame retardant technology, and their applications leading to the development of protective garments and multifunctional materials. [email protected]