References
- Bitner , E. M. 1980 . Nonlinear effectrs of the statistical model of shallow-water wind wawes . Appl. Ocean Res. , 2 ( 2 ) : 63 – 73 .
- Cavanié , A. , Arhan , M. and Ezraty , R. A statistical relationship between individual heights and periods of storm waves . Proc. Behaviour of Offshore Struct. pp. 354 – 360 . Trondheim, , Norway : Norwegian Institute of Technology .
- Dally , W. R. , Dean , R. G. and Dalrymple , R. A. 1985 . Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile . J. Geophys. Res. , 90 ( 6 ) : 11917 – 11927 .
- Dally , W. R. 1992 . Random breaking waves: field verification of a wave-by-wave algorithm for engineering application . Coastal Engrg. , 16 : 369 – 397 .
- Doering , J. C. and Donelan , M. A. 1993 . The joint distribution of heights and periods of shoaling waves . J. Geophys. Res. , 98 ( 7 ) : 12543 – 12555 .
- Goda , Y. The observed joint distribution of periods and heights of ocean waves . Proc. 16th Conf. on Coastal Engrg. pp. 227 – 246 . New York : ASCE .
- Goda , Y. 1986 . Effect of wave tilting on zero-crossing wave heights and periods . Coastal Engrg. in Japan, Tokyo , 29 : 79 – 90 .
- Holthuijsen , L. H. , Booji , N. and Ris , R. C. A spectral wave model for the coastal zone . Proc. WAVES '93 . pp. 630 – 641 . ASCE .
- Ishii , T. , Isobe , M. and Watanabe , A. Improved boundary conditions to a time-dependent mild-slope equation for random waves . Proc. 24th Int. Conf. Coastal Engrg. pp. 272 – 284 . ASCE .
- Kamphuis , J. W. 1994 . Wave height from deep water through breaking zone . J. Wway, Port, Coast. Ocean Div., ASCE , 120 ( 4 ) : 347 – 367 .
- Longuet-Higgins , M. S. 1957 . The statistical analysis of a random, moving surface . Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. London, Ser. A , 249 ( 966 ) : 321 – 387 .
- Longuet-Higgins , M. S. 1963 . The effect of nonlinearities on statistical distributions in the theory of sea waves . J. Fluid Mech. , 17 ( 3 ) : 459 – 480 .
- Longuet-Higgins , M. S. 1983 . On the joint distribution of wave periods and amplitudes in a random wave field . Proc. Royal Soc. London , 389 : 241 – 258 .
- Losada , M. A. and Gimenez-Curto , L. A. 1979 . Coastal Engrg. , 3 : 77 – 96 .
- Mase , H. 1989 . Groupiness factor and wave height distribution . J. Wway, Port, Coast. Ocean Div., ASCE , 115 ( 1 ) : 105 – 121 .
- Mase , H. and Kobayashi , N. Transformation of random breaking waves and its empirical numerical model considering surf beat . Proc. Coastal Sediments '91 . pp. 688 – 702 . New York : ASCE .
- Memos , C. D. Experimental results of wave transformation across a sloping beach . Proc. 24th Conf on Coastal Engrg. pp. 2350 – 2364 . New York : ASCE .
- Memos , C. D. and Tzanis , K. 1994 . Numerical results of the joint probability of heights and periods of sea waves . Coastal Engrg. , 22 : 217 – 235 .
- Memos , C. D. and Tzanis , K. 2000 . Joint distribution of wave heights and periods in waters of any depth . J. Wway, Port, Coast. Ocean Engrg., ASCE , 126 ( 3 ) : 162 – 172 .
- Mitsuyasu , H. 1975 . Observations of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy . J. Phys. Oceanogr , 5 ( 4 ) : 750 – 760 .
- Nwogu , O. and Mansard , E. P. D. Time-domain simulation of directional wave propagation into harbours . Proc. HYDRO-PORT '94 . pp. 243 – 265 . Yokosuka : Port and Harbour Res. Inst. .
- Simons , R. , Whitehouse , R. J. S. , Maelver , R. D. , Pearson , J. , Sayers , P. , Zhao , Y. and Channell , A. R. Evaluation of the UK Coastal Research Facility . Proc. Coastal Dynamics '95 . Gdansk, Poland.
- Stansberg , C. T. Effects from directionality and spectral band-width on nonlinear spatial modulations of deep-water surface gravity wave trans . Proc. 24th Conf. on Coastal Engrg. pp. 579 – 593 . New York : ASCE .
- Thornton , E. B. and Guza , R. T. 1983 . Transformation of wave height distribution . J. Geophys. Res. , 88 ( C10 ) : 5925 – 5938 .
- Van der Meer , J. W. 1988 . Deterministic and probabilistic design of breakwater armor layers . J. Wway, Port, Coast. Ocean Engrg., ASCE , 114 ( 1 ) : 66 – 80 .
- Wamdi group , Hasselmann , S. , Hasselmann , K. , Bauer , E. , Janssen , P. A. E. M. , Komen , G. J. , Bertotti , L. , Lionello , P. , Guillaume , A. , Cardone , V. C. , Greenwood , J. A. , Reistad , M. , Zambresky , L. and Ewing , J. A. 1988 . The WAM model - a third generation ocean wave prediction model . J. Phys. Oceanogr. , 18 : 1775 – 1810 .
- Weggel , J. R. 1972 . Maximum breaker height . J. Wway, Harbour, and Coastal Engrg. Div., ASCE , 98 ( 4 ) : 529 – 548 .