An analysis of nearshore profile and bar development under large scale erosive and accretive waves

References

• Alsina, J. M., & Cáceres, I. (2011). Sediment suspension events in the inner surf and swash zone. Measurements in large scale and high-energy wave conditions. Coastal Engineering, 58(8), 657–670.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Alsina, J. M., Padilla, E. M., & Cáceres, I. (2016). Sediment transport and beach profile evolution induced by bi-chromatic wave groups with different group periods. Coastal Engineering, 114, 325–340.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Atkinson, A., Shimamoto, T., Wu, S., Birrien, F., & Baldock, T. (2015, September). Beach profile evolution under cyclic wave climates. Paper presented at the meeting of Australasian Coasts and Ports Conference 2015: 22nd Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference and the 15th Australasian Port and Harbour Conference, Auckland, New Zealand. Retrieved from http://search.informit.com.au/documentSummary;dn=700361621097694;res=IELENG
   Google Scholar
• Baldock, T. E., Alsina, J. A., Cáceres, I., Vicinanza, D., Contestabile P., Power, H., & Sanchez-Arcilla, A. (2011). Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves, wave groups and random waves. Coastal Engineering, 58, 214–227.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Baldock, T. E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S., & Van Weert, P. (1998). Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coastal Engineering, 34, 173–196.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Baldock, T. E., Manoonvoravong, P., & Pham, K. S. (2010). Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups. Coastal Engineering, 57, 898–916.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Battjes, J. A., & Janssen, J. P. F. M. (1978, August–September). Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Paper presented at the meeting of International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Hamburg, Germany. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers.
   Google Scholar
• Cáceres, I. (2013). Data Storage Report of WISE IV (Erosive + Accretive). Internal report from Canal d´Investigació i Enginyeria Marítima of Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya.
   Google Scholar
• Cáceres, I., & Alsina, J. M. (2016). Suspended sediment transport and beach dynamics induced by monochromatic conditions, long waves and wave groups. Coastal Engineering, 108, 36–55.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Dalrymple, R. A. (1992). Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 118, 193–200.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Dean, R. G. (1973). Heuristic model of sand transport in the surf zone. Paper presented at the meeting of Conference on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone. Sydney: Australia Institution of Engineers.
   Google Scholar
• Dean, R. G., & Dalrymple, R. A. (2002). Coastal processes with engineering applications. Cambridge: Cambridge Univ. Press.
   Google Scholar
• Doering, J. C., & Bowen, A. J. (1995). Parametrization of orbital velocity asymmetries of shoaling and breaking waves using bispectral analysis. Coastal Engineering, 26, 15–33.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Dubarbier, B., Catelle, B., Marieu, V., & Ruessink, G. (2015). Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior. Coastal Engineering, 95, 35–50.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Gonzalez-Rodriguez, D., & Madsen, O. S. (2007). Seabed shear stress and bedload transport due to asymmetric and skewed waves. Coastal Engineering, 54, 914–929.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Goring, D. G., & Nikora, V. I. (2002). Despiking acoustic doppler velocimeter data. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 128(1), 117–126.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Guannel, G., Ozkan-Haller, H. T., Haller, M. C., & Kirby, J. T. (2007, May). Influence of velocity moments on sand bar movement during CROSSTEX. Paper presented at the Sixth International Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes, New Orleans, Louisiana. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers.
   Google Scholar
• Hallermeier, R. J. (1978, August–September). Uses for a calculated limit depth to beach erosion. Paper presented at the meeting of International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Hamburg, Germany. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers.
   Google Scholar
• Hoefel, F., & Elgar, S. (2003). Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration. Science, 299(5614), 1885–1887.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Houser, C., & Greenwood, B. (2007). Onshore migration of a swash bar during a storm. Journal of Coastal Research, 23(1), 1–14.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Hsu, T.-J., Elgar, S., & Guza, R. T. (2006). Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration. Coastal Engineering, 53, 817–824.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Larson, M., & Kraus, N. C. (1994). Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina. Marine Geology, 117, 75–94.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Mase, H. (1989). Random wave runup height on gentle slope. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 115(5), 649–661.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Masselink, G., & Puleo, J. A. (2006). Swash-zone morphodynamics. Continental Shelf Research, 26(5), 661–680.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Quartel, S., Kroon, A., & Ruessink, B. G. (2008). Seasonal accretion and erosion patterns of a microtidal sandy beach. Marine Geology, 250(1–2), 19–33.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Ribberink, J. S., & Al-Salem, A. A. (1994). Sediment transport in oscillatory boundary layers in cases of rippled beds and sheet flow. Journal of Geophysical Research, 99(C6), 12707–12727.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Roelvink, J. A., & Stive, M .J. F. (1989). Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 94(C4), 4785–4800.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Sánchez-Arcilla, A., Cáceres, I., & Grifoll, M. (2013, July). Observing shoreline fluxes. Implications for swash and surf zone modelling. Paper presented at the meeting of 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics. Bordeaux, France. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers.
   Google Scholar
• Sánchez-Arcilla, A., Cáceres, I., Van Rijn, L., & Grüne, J. (2011). Revisiting mobile bed tests for beach profile dynamics. Coastal Engineering, 58, 583–593.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Saye, S. E., van der Wal, D., Pye, K., & Blott, S. J. (2005). Beach-dune morphological relationships and erosion/accretion: An investigation at five sites in England and Wales using LIDAR data. Geomorphology, 72(1–4), 128–155.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Silva, P. A., Abreu, T., van der A, D. A., Sancho, F., Ruessink, B. G., Van der Werf, J., & Ribberink, J. S. (2011). Sediment transport in nonlinear skewed oscillatory flows: Transkew experiments. Journal of Hydraulic Research, 49, 72–80.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• van der A, D. A., O’Donoghue, T., & Ribberink, J. S. (2010). Measurements of sheet flow transport in acceleration-skewed oscillatory flow and comparison with practical formulations. Coastal Engineering, 57, 331–342.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• van Maanen, B., Ruiter, P. J., Coco, G., Bryan, K. R., & Ruessink, B. G. (2008). Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements. Marine Geology, 253, 99–106.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• van Rijn, L. C., Tonnon, P. K., Sánchez-Arcilla, A., Cáceres, I., & Grüne, J. (2011). Scaling laws for beach and dune erosion processes. Coastal Engineering, 58, 623–636.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watanabe, A., & Sato, S. (2004). A sheet flow transport formula for asymmetric forward-leaning waves and currents. Paper presented at the meeting of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Lisbon, Portugal. Reston, VA: American Society of Civil Engineers.
   Google Scholar