Comparisons of the Fourier Transform Infrared Spectra of cashmere, guard hair, wool and other animal fibres

References

• American Society for Testing and Materials (1993). Standard Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles, Method D629–xx. West Conshohocken, PA.
   Google Scholar
• Carr, C. M., Leaver, I. H., & Hughes, A. E. (1986). X-Ray photoelectron spectroscopic study of the wool fiber surface. Textile Research Journal, 56, 457–461.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Chan, T., & Langley, K. D. (2005). Identification of cashmere contaminants and determination of blend levels. Proceedings of the 3rd International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 1–19. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Campbell, M. E., Whiteley, K. J., & Gillespie, J. M. (1975). Influence of nutrition on the crimping rate of wool and the type and proportion of constituent proteins. Australian Journal of Biological Sciences, 28, 389–397.10.1071/BI9750389
   PubMedGoogle Scholar
• Gallagher, W. (2005). FTIR Analysis of Protein Structure. Chem455, Biochemistry Lab II—Synthesis and Characterisation of Amyloid Fibril-Forming Peptides Manuals. Retrieved from <www.chem.uwec.edu>
   Google Scholar
• Hillbrick, G. C. & Tucker, D. J. (1996). Effect of nutrition on lipid production and composition of Cashmere buck fleece. Small Ruminant Research, 22, 225–230.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Hudson, A. H. F. (1992). The chemistry and morphology of goat fibres. Australia: Deakin University . (Ph.D. Thesis).
   Google Scholar
• Hunter, L. (1993). Mohair: A review of its properties, processing and applications. Port Elizabeth: CSIR.
   Google Scholar
• Huson, M. G. (2009). Tensile failure of wool. In A. R. Bunsell (Ed.), Handbook of Tensile Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres (pp. 100–143). Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing.10.1533/9781845696801.1.100
   Google Scholar
• International Wool Textile Organisation (1998). Determination of quantity of blends of wool with specialty fibres by scanning electron microscopy. IWTO-58. International Wool Textile Organisation, Ilkley, Yorkshire.
   Google Scholar
• International Wool Textile Organisation (2005a). Measurement of the mean and distribution of fibre diameter of wool using an optical fibre diameter analyser (OFDA). IWTO -47. International Wool Textile Organisation, Brussels, Belgium.
   Google Scholar
• International Wool Textile Organisation (2005b). Determination of medullated fibre content of wool and mohair samples by opacity measurement using an OFDA. IWTO-57. International Wool Textile Organisation, Brussels, Belgium.
   Google Scholar
• Javkhlantugs, N., Ankhbayar, E., Tegshjargal, K., Enkhjargal, D., & Ganzorig, C. (2009). AFM study of untreated and treated fibers of Mongolian cashmere. Materials Science Forum, 610-613, 175–178.10.4028/www.scientific.net/MSF.610-613
   Google Scholar
• Kerkhoff, K., Cescutti, G., Kruse, L., & Müssig, J. (2009). Development of a DNA-analytical method for the identification of animal hair fibers in textiles. Textile Research Journal, 79, 69–75.10.1177/0040517508090488
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Langley, K.D. (2008). Development of precision and bias statement for cashmere quantitative fiber analysis. Proceedings of the 4th International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 154–160. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Langley, K. D., & Coskuntuna, E. (2000). Distinguishing between new and recycled cashmere with Fisher’s discriminant analysis. Textile Research Journal, 70, 181–184.10.1177/004051750007000216
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Langley, K. D., & Kennedy, T. A. (1981). The identification of specialty fibers. Textile Research Journal, 51, 703–709.10.1177/004051758105101104
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Liu, J., & Lu, K. (2004). Determination of processing parameters for cashmere-like native sheep down hair by stretching treatment. In Proceedings of the Textile Institute 83rd World Conference, Shanghai, China, 345–348.
   Google Scholar
• Liu, X., Ma, N., Wen, G., & Wang, X. (2008). FTIR spectrum and dye absorption of cashmere and native fine sheep wool. Proceedings of the 4th International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 253–264. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A. (2000). Quality attributes of cashmere. In Proceedings of the 10th International Wool Textile Research Conference, Aachen. (Eds. H. Höcker, & B. Küppers) SF 1–10. Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut, Aachen, Germany.
   Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A. (2003). Influence of nutrition, fibre diameter and fibre length on the fibre curvature of cashmere. Australian Journal of Experimental Agriculture, 43, 1199–1209.10.1071/EA01178
   Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A. (2012a). Variation in the whiteness and brightness of white cashmere associated with farm of origin and fibre attributes. Animal Production Science, 52, 436–441.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A. (2012b). Production, properties and processing of American bison (Bison bison) wool grown in southern Australia. Animal Production Science, 57, 431–435.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A. (2014). Variation in the softness and fibre curvature of cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other rare animal fibres. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 105, 597–608.10.1080/00405000.2013.828448
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A. (2016). Weathering, fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 107, 1193–1202.10.1080/00405000.2015.1099355
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A., & Liu, X. (2017). Cuticle and cortical cell morphology and the ellipticity of cashmere are affected by nutrition of goats. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 108, 1739–1746.10.1080/00405000.2017.1282408
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A., & Schlink, A. C. (2014). Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 105, 927–937.10.1080/00405000.2013.865863
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McGregor, B. A., & Tucker, D. J. (2010). Affect of nutrition and origin on the amino acid, grease and suint composition and colour of cashmere and guard hairs. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 117, 409–420.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Payne, R. W. (Ed.) (2012). The Guide to GenStat®; Release 15. Part 2: Statistics. VSN International, Hertfordshire, UK.
   Google Scholar
• Phan, K-H., Wortmann, F. J., Wortmann, G., & Arns, W. (1988). Characterization of specialty fibre by scanning electron microscopy. In Proceedings of the 1st International Symposium on Speciality Animal Fibers, Aachen. Schriftenreihe der Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitutet, 103, 137–162.
   Google Scholar
• She, M. F. (2002). Intelligent animal fibre identification and classification ( PhD thesis). Deakin University, Australia.
   Google Scholar
• Spilhaus, K. (1998). As cited in Textile Magazine, 27, 14–17.
   Google Scholar
• Subramanian, S., Karthik, T., & Vijayaraaghavan, N. N. (2005). Single nucleotide polymorphism for animal fibre identification. Journal of Biotechnology., 116, 153–158.10.1016/j.jbiotec.2004.10.015
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Tucker, D.J., Rivett, D.E., Restall, B.J., & Hudson, A.H.F. (1985). Non-protein components of the cashmere fibre. Proceedings of the 7th International Wool Textile Research Conference, Tokyo, 2, 223–235.
   Google Scholar
• Tucker, D.J., Hudson, A.H.F., Ozolins, G.C. Rivett, D.E., & Jones, L.N. (1988). Some aspects of the structure and composition of specialty animal fibres. In Proceedings of the 1st International Symposium on Speciality Animal Fibers, Aachen. Schriftenreihe der Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitutet, 103, 71–103.
   Google Scholar
• Tucker, D. J., Hudson, A. H. F., Laudani, A., Marshall, R. C., & Rivett, D. E. (1989). Variation in goat fibre proteins. Australian Journal of Agricultural Research, 40, 675–683.
   Google Scholar
• Varley, A. R. (2006). A modified method of cuticle scale height determination for animal fibers. AATCC Review (May), 6, 39–42.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Varley, A. R. (2008). Fiber identification and the use of cuticle scale height measurement. In Proceedings of the 4th International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 215–240. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Wang, B., Hu, Z., Zhang, B., & Kong, L. (2005b). Study on cashmere and wool distinguishing based on Digital Image Capture by light microscope. Proceedings of the 3rd International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 118–139. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Wang, H., Liu, X., & Wang, X. (2005a). FTIR and thermal analysis of cashmere and other animal fibres. In: Z. Zhi, Z. Meirong, T. Jun, Y. Guifen, Z. Hong, W. Cuifang (Eds.), Proceedings of the 3rd International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 217–228. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Wang, L., & Wang, X. (2005). Determination of cashmere and wool fibre scale frequency by analyzing diameter profiles with Fast Fourier Transform. Proceedings of the 3rd International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 97–117. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Ward, W. H., Binkley, C. H., & Snell, N. S. (1955). Amino acid composition of normal wools, wool fractions, mohair, feather, and feather fractions. Textile Research Journal, 25, 314–325.10.1177/004051755502500403
   Google Scholar
• Wildman, A. B. (1954). The Microscopy of Animal Textile Fibres. Leeds: WIRA.
   Google Scholar
• Wortmann, F. J. (1990). SEM-analysis of wool/specialty fibre blends—state of the art. In Proceedings of the 2nd International Symposium on Speciality Animal Fibers, Aachen. Schrift. der Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitutet, 106, 113–120.
   Google Scholar
• Wortmann, F. J., & Phan, K. H. (1999). Cuticle scale heights of wool and specialty fibers and their changes due to textile processing. Textile Research Journal, 69, 139–144.10.1177/004051759906900209
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Wortmann, F.-J., Phan, K.-H., & Augustin, P. (2003). Quantitative fiber mixture analysis by scanning electron microscopy1: Part V: Analyzing pure fiber samples and samples with small admixtures according to test method IWTO-58. Textile Research Journal, 73, 727–732.10.1177/004051750307300811
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Wortmann, F.J., Wortmann, G., Arms, W., & Phan, K-H. (1988). Analysis of specialty fiber/wool blends by means of scanning electron microscopy (SEM). In Proceedings of the 1st International Symposium on Speciality Animal Fibers, Aachen. Schriftenreihe der Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitutet, 103, 163-188.
   Google Scholar
• Yang, G., Fu, Y., Hong, X., & Wang, C. (2005). Discussion on cashmere fiber identification technique by SEM and LM. Proceedings of the 3rd International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium, pp. 189–205. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Yao, M., Ma, N., Lu, Y., Zhang, K. C., & Xu, S. Q. (1997). Standards and Tests for Wool and Cashmere Fibres (p. 496). Beijing.: China Textile Publishing.
   Google Scholar
• Zhang, Z. (Ed.) (2005). Proceedings of the 3rd International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Zhang, Z. (Ed.) (2008). Proceedings of the 4th International Cashmere Determination Technique Symposium. China National Cashmere Products Engineering and Technical Centre and China Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Corporation, Erodosi, China.
   Google Scholar
• Zhao, G. L., & Xu, J. (2006). Identification of wool and cashmere with Near Infrared Spectroscopy technology. Wool Textile Technology (China), 1, 24–45.
   Google Scholar