Where the Low Road and the High Road Meet: Flexible Employment in Global Value Chains

References

• Abernathy , F. , Dunlop , J. , Hammond , J. and Weil , D. 1999 . A Stitch in Time: Lean Retailing and the Transformation of Manufacturing – Lessons from the Apparel and Textile Industries , Oxford : Oxford University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Abernathy , F. , Volpe , A. and Weil , D. 2005 . “The Future of the Apparel and Textile Industries: Prospects and Choices for Public and Private Actors,” . Harvard Center for Textile and Apparel Research http://www.hctar.org/pdfs/GS10.pdf (downloaded 18 March 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Akram-Lodhi , A. 1990 . “The Political Economy of Trade Liberalization in India,” . Journal of Contemporary Asia , 20 ( 3 ) : 359 – 70 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Aktan , O. 1996 . “Liberalization, Export Incentives and Exchange Rate Policy: Turkey's Experience in the 1980s,” . In The Economy of Turkey since Liberalization , Edited by: Togan , S. and Balasubramanyam , V. 177 – 97 . New York : St. Martin's .
   Google Scholar
• Amsden , A. 1989 . Asia's Next Giant: South Korea and Late Industrialization , New York : Oxford University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Amsden , A. 2001 . The Rise of the “Rest”: Challenges to the West from Late-Industrializing Countries , Oxford : Oxford University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Apparel Export Promotion Council . 2000 . Handbook of Export Statistics 1997-98, 1998-99 & 1999-2000 , New Delhi : AEPC .
   Google Scholar
• Appelbaum , R. and Christerson , B. 1995 . “Global and Local Subcontracting: Space, Ethnicity and the Organization of Apparel Production,” . World Development , 23 ( 8 ) : 1363 – 74 .
   Google Scholar
• Bair , J. 2005 . “Global Capitalism and Commodity Chains: Looking Back, Going Forward,” . Competition and Change , 9 ( 2 ) : 153 – 80 .
   Google Scholar
• Bair , J. 2008 . “Surveying the Post-MFA Landscape: What Prospects for the Global South Post-quota?” . Competition and Change , 12 ( 1 ) : 3 – 10 .
   Google Scholar
• Bair , J. and Gereffi , G. 2001 . “Local Clusters in Global Chains: The Causes and Consequences of Export Dynamism in Torreon's Blue Jeans Industry,” . World Development , 29 ( 11 ) : 1885 – 1903 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Becattini , G. 1990 . “The Marshallian Industrial District as a Socio-Economic Notion,” . In Industrial Districts and Inter-firm Co-operation in Italy , Edited by: Pyke , F. , Becattini , G. and Sengenberger , W. 37 – 51 . Geneva : International Institute for Labour Studies .
   Google Scholar
• Bhattacharya , U. 1999 . “Clouds ‘in the Making’ of an Industrial District?: A Note on ‘The Knitwear Cluster of Tiruppur,’” . In Economy and Organization: Indian Institutions under the Neoliberal Regime , Edited by: Bagchi , A. 122 – 46 . New Delhi : Sage .
   Google Scholar
• Business India . 1984 . “Troubles at Tiruppur: An End to Cheap Labor,” . Business India , 27 August‐9 September : 80 – 89 .
   Google Scholar
• Cammett , M. 2006 . “Development and the Changing Dynamics of Global Production: Global Value Chains and Local Clusters in Apparel Manufacturing,” . Competition and Change , 10 ( 1 ) : 23 – 48 .
   Google Scholar
• Cawthorne , P. 1993 . “The Labour Process under Amoebic Capitalism – A Case Study of the Garment Industry in a South Indian Town,” . In Gender, Small-Scale Industry and Development Policy , Edited by: Baud , I. and de Bruijne , G. 47-75 London : Intermediate Technology Publications .
   Google Scholar
• Chari , S. 1997 . “Agrarian Questions in the Making of the Knitwear Industry in Tirupur, India: A Historical Geography of the Industrial Present,” . In Globalising Food: Agrarian Questions and Global Restructuring , Edited by: Goodman , D. and Watts , M. 79 – 105 . New York : Routledge .
   Google Scholar
• Chari , S. 2000 . “The Agrarian Question Comes to Town: The Agrarian Origins of the Knitwear Industrial Cluster in Tiruppur, India,” . World Development , 28 ( 3 ) : 579 – 99 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Chari , S. 2004 . Fraternal Capital: Peasant-Workers, Self-Made Men, and Globalization in Provincial India , Stanford : Stanford University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Çınar , E. M. 1994 . “Unskilled Urban Migrant Women and Disguised Employment: Homeworking Women in İstanbul, Turkey,” . World Development , 22 ( 3 ) : 369 – 80 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Coe , N. , Dicken , P. and Hess , M. 2008 . “Global Production Networks: Realizing the Potential,” . Journal of Economic Geography , 8 : 271 – 95 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Denizli Municipality . 1988 . Denizli , Denizli : Denizli Belediyesi . (Denizli Municipality)
   Google Scholar
• Denizli Sanayı Odası (DSO) . 2009 . Bulletin: Denizli by Figures, January 2009 1 – 4 . Denizli Chamber of Industry http://www.dso.org.tr/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=71&Itemid=160 (downloaded 27 February 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Denizli Sanayı Odası (DSO) . 2010 . Bulletin: Denizli by Figures, April 2010 1 – 4 . Denizli Chamber of Industry http://www.dso.org.tr/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=71&Itemid=160 (downloaded 13 May 2010)
   Google Scholar
• Denoon , D. 1998 . “Cycles in India's Economic Liberalization,” . Comparative Politics , 31 ( 1 ) : 43 – 60 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Dickerson , K. 1999 . Textiles and Apparel in the International Economy , Upper Saddle River : Merrill .
   Google Scholar
• Doksan . 2010 . “Doksan Denizli Dokuma Sanayi A.S.,” . http://www.doksan.com/ (downloaded 21 June 2010)
   Google Scholar
• Eraydın , A. 2002 . “The Local Embeddedness of Firms in Turkish Industrial Districts: The Changing Role of Networks in Local Development,” . In Embedded Enterprise and Social Capital: International Perspectives , Edited by: Taylor , M. and Leonard , S. 269 – 88 . Aldershot : Ashgate .
   Google Scholar
• Eraydın , A. and Erendil , A. 1999 . “The Role of Female Labor in Industrial Restructuring: New Production Process and Labor Market Relations in the Istanbul Clothing Industry,” . Gender, Place and Culture , 6 ( 3 ) : 259 – 72 .
   Google Scholar
• Ercan , E. 2002 . “Changing World Trade Conditions Force the Turkish Textile and Apparel Industry to Create New Strategies,” . Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management , 2 ( 4 ) : 1 – 8 .
   Google Scholar
• Feenstra , R. 1998 . “Integration of Trade and Disintegration of Production in the Global Economy,” . Journal of Economic Perspectives , 12 ( 3 ) : 31 – 50 .
   Google Scholar
• Fişek . n.d. . “Health and Social Services Provided for Girl Labourers at Small Scale Enterprises in Denizli,” . http://www.fisek.org.tr/shden.php (downloaded 18 January 2008)
   Google Scholar
• Frontline . 2007 . “Caught in a Weave,” . 24 ( 20 ) 6-19 October http://www.hinduonnet.com/fline/fl2420/stories/20071019508010700.htm (downloaded 15 January 2008)
   Google Scholar
• Gereffi , G. 1995 . “Global Production Systems and Third World Development,” . In Global Change, Regional Response: The New International Context of Development , Edited by: Stallings , B. 100 – 42 . Cambridge : Cambridge University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Gereffi , G. 1999 . “International Trade and Industrial Upgrading in the Apparel Commodity Chain,” . Journal of International Economics , 48 ( 1 ) : 37 – 70 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Gereffi , G. , Humphrey , J. and Sturgeon , T. 2005 . “The Governance of Global Value Chains,” . Review of International Political Economy , 12 ( 1 ) : 78 – 104 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Gereffi , G. and Memedovic , O. 2003 . The Global Apparel Value Chain: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries? , Geneva : United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) . http://www.soc.duke.edu/∼ggere/web/UNIDO-Global%20Apparel_2003.pdf (downloaded 3 August 2008)
   Google Scholar
• Gibbon , P. , Bair , J. and Ponte , S. 2008 . “Governing Global Value Chains: An Introduction,” . Economy and Society , 37 ( 3 ) : 315 – 38 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Gibbon , P. and Ponte , S. 2005 . Trading Down: Africa, Value Chains and the Global Economy , Philadelphia : Temple University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Gökhan . 2010 . “About Gökhan,” . http://www.gokhan.com.tr/company (downloaded 21 June 2010)
   Google Scholar
• Hale , A. 2002 . “Trade Liberalisation in the Garment Industry: Who is Really Benefiting,” . Development in Practice , 12 ( 1 ) : 33 – 44 .
   Google Scholar
• Henderson , J. , Dicken , P. , Hess , M. , Coe , N. and Yeung , H. W.C. 2002 . “Global Production Networks and the Analysis of Economic Development,” . Review of International Political Economy , 9 ( 3 ) : 436 – 64 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Hess , M. and Yeung , H. W.C. 2006 . “Whither Global Production Networks in Economic Geography,” . Environment and Planning A , 38 : 1192 – 1204 .
   Google Scholar
• Humphrey , J. and Schmitz , H. 2002 . “How Does Insertion in Global Value Chains Affect Upgrading in Industrial Clusters?” . Regional Studies , 36 ( 9 ) : 1017 – 27 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Humphrey , J. and Schmitz , H. 2004 . “Chain Governance and Upgrading: Taking Stock,” . In Local Enterprises in the Global Economy: Issues of Governance and Upgrading , Edited by: Schmitz , H. 349-82 Cheltenham : Edward Elgar .
   Google Scholar
• Kaplinsky , R. 1998 . “Globalisation, Industrialisation and Sustainable Growth: The Pursuit of the Nth Rent,” . Brighton : Institute for Development Studies, IDS Discussion Paper 365 .
   Google Scholar
• Knorringa , P. and Meyer-Stamer , J. 2008 . “Local Development, Global Value Chains, and Latecomer Development,” . In Small Firms, Global Markets: Competitive Challenges in the New Economy , Edited by: Haar , J. and Meyer-Stamer , J. 18 – 37 . New York : Palgrave Macmillan .
   Google Scholar
• Knorringa , P. and Pegler , L. 2006 . “Globalisation, Firm Upgrading and Impacts on Labour,” . Tijdschrift voor Economische en Sociale Geografie , 97 ( 5 ) : 468 – 77 .
   Google Scholar
• Köroğlu , A. and B. , Beyhan . 2002 . “The Changing Role of SMEs and Declining Cooperative Form: The Tale of Denizli,” . www.econ.utah.edu/∼ehrbar/erc2002/pdf/P049.pdf (downloaded 1 October 2005)
   Google Scholar
• Köroğlu , A. and Beyhan , B. 2003 . “The Changing Role of SMEs in the Regional Growth Process: The Case of Denizli,” . In Regional Economic Growth, SMEs and the Wider Europe , Edited by: Fingleton , B. , Eraydın , A. and Paci , R. 229 – 45 . Aldershot : Ashgate .
   Google Scholar
• Krishnaswami , C. 1989 . “Dynamics of Capitalist Labour Process – The Knitting Industry in Tamil Nadu,” . Economic and Political Weekly , 17 June : 1353 – 9 .
   Google Scholar
• Küçüker . 2010 . “Küçüker Tekstil,” . http://www.kucuker.com (downloaded 21 June 2010)
   Google Scholar
• Lynch , C. 1999 . “The Good Girls of Sri Lankan Modernity: Moral Orders of Nationalism and Capitalism,” . Identities , 6 ( 1 ) : 55 – 89 .
   Google Scholar
• Mutluer , M. 1995 . The Development, Structure and Problems of Denizli's Industries , Izmir : Denizli Chamber of Industry .
   Google Scholar
• Nadvi , K. 2004 . “Globalisation and Poverty: How Can Global Value Chain Research Inform the Policy Debate?” . IDS Bulletin , 35 ( 1 ) : 20 – 30 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Neetha , N. 2002 . “Flexible Production, Feminisation and Disorganisation: Evidence from Tiruppur Knitwear Industry,” . Economic and Political Weekly , 25 May : 2045 – 52 .
   Google Scholar
• Nesa , Tekstil . 2010 . “About Company,” . http://www.nesatekstil.com.tr/company.html (downloaded 21 June 2010)
   Google Scholar
• Ng , K. Y. and Gujar , G. 2008 . “The Spatial Characteristics of Inland Transport Hubs: Evidences from Southern India,” . Journal of Transport Geography , 17 ( 5 ) : 346 – 56 .
   Google Scholar
• Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development . 2006 . Turkey, Economic Survey , Paris : OECD .
   Google Scholar
• Öz , Ö . “Changing Patterns of Competitive Advantage: The Towel/Bathrobe Cluster in Denizli (Turkey),” . Paper presented at the Conference on Clusters, Industrial Districts and Firms: The Challenge of Globalisation, in honour of Professor Sebastiano Brusco, Modena, Italy, 12-13 September . http://www.economia.unimo.it/convegni_seminari/CG_sept03/Papers/Parallel%20Session%203.5/Oz.pdf (downloaded 8 February 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Öz , Ö. 2004 . Clusters and Competitive Advantage: The Turkish Experience , New York : Palgrave Macmillan .
   Google Scholar
• Özcan , G. 1995 . Small Firms and Local Economic Development: Entrepreneurship in Southern Europe and Turkey , Brookfield : Avebury .
   Google Scholar
• Özcan , G. 1997 . “The Rising Economic Star of the Aegean Region: Denizli,” . Private View , 1 ( 3 ) : 70 – 74 .
   Google Scholar
• Özgur , H. 2005 . “Integration of a Local Economy to the Global and European Markets through Export-Led Growth and Specialized Textile Products Export: Home Textile Production in Denizli-Turkey,” . 18th European Advanced Studies Institute in Regional Science, University of Lodz, http://www.wz.uni.lodz.pl/ersa/abstr/ozgur_p.pdf (downloaded 8 February 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Penpecioğlu , M. 2007 . “A Critical Interpretation of Industrial Restructuring of the Region, the Case of Denizli Textile and Garment Sector,” . MSc Thesis, School of Natural and Applied Sciences, Middle East Technical University, Ankara
   Google Scholar
• Pickles , J. 2006 . “Trade Liberalization, Upgrading, and Regionalization in the Global Apparel Industry,” . Environment and Planning A , 38 ( 12 ) : 2201 – 06 .
   Google Scholar
• Pinarcıoğlu , M. M. 2000 . Development of Industry and Local Change: The Rise of Turkish Textiles and Clothing since 1980, and Transformation in the Local Economies of Bursa and Denizli , Ankara : Middle East Technical University, Faculty of Architecture Press .
   Google Scholar
• Pio , E. 2005 . “A Time to Sew: Work Culture and Organic Cotton at Knitex, India,” . The Management Case Study Journal , 5 ( 2 ) : 69 – 82 .
   Google Scholar
• Piore , M. J. and Sabel , C. 1984 . The Second Industrial Divide: Possibilities for Prosperity , New York : Basic Books .
   Google Scholar
• Pyke , F. and W. , Sengenberger . 1992 . Industrial Districts and Local Economic Regeneration , Geneva : International Institute for Labour Studies, International Labour Organization .
   Google Scholar
• Riddle , L. and Rehman , S . 2005 . Turkish Apparel Exporters' Attitude, Expectations, and Strategic Preparations for a Quota-Free World George Washington Center for the Study of Globalization, Occasional Paper Series, http://gstudynet.org/publications/OPS/papers/CSGOP‐05-39.pdf (downloaded 14 April 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Rosen , E. 2002 . Making Sweatshops: The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry , Berkeley : University of California Press .
   Google Scholar
• Ross , R. and Chan , A. 2002 . “North-South to South-South: The True Face of Global Competition,” . Foreign Affairs , 81 ( 5 ) : 8 – 13 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Samroy , M. 1999 . Silent Souls: A Study of the Working and Living Conditions of the Workers in the Cotton Knitwear Industries in Tiruppur , Tiruppur : Social Awareness and Voluntary Education (SAVE) .
   Google Scholar
• Schmitz , H. and Knorringa , P. 2000 . “Learning from Global Buyers,” . Journal of Development Studies , 37 ( 2 ) : 177 – 205 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schrank , A. 2004 . “Ready to Wear Development? Foreign Investment, Technology Transfer, and Learning by Watching in the Apparel Trade,” . Social Forces , 83 ( 1 ) : 123 – 56 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Shah , N. , Gothoskar , S. , Gandhi , N. and Chhachhi , A. 1994 . “Structural Adjustment, Feminisation of Labour Force and Organisational Strategies,” . Economic and Political Weekly , 29 ( 18 ) : WS39 – 48 .
   Google Scholar
• Shanmugam , S. 1988 . “A Plan for Hosiery Town-Tiruppur,” . MArch Thesis, Anna University School of Architecture and Planning, Chennai
   Google Scholar
• Smith , M. and Weil , D. 2005 . “Ratcheting up: Linked Technology Adoption in Supply Chains,” . Industrial Relations , 44 ( 3 ) : 490 – 508 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Social Awareness and Voluntary Education (SAVE) . n.d. . A Study on Garment Production Mobility in Tiruppur http://savengo.org/pdf/PDFonline1.pdf (downloaded 14 January 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Standing , G. 1999 . “Global Feminization through Flexible Labor: A Theme Revisited,” . World Development , 27 ( 3 ) : 583 – 602 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Swaminathan , P. and Jeyaranjan , J. 1999 . “The Knitwear Cluster in Tiruppur: An Indian Industrial District in the Making,?” . In Economy and Organization: Indian Institutions under the Neoliberal Regime , Edited by: Bagchi , A. 94-121 New Delhi : Sage .
   Google Scholar
• Tewari , M. 2006a . “Adjustments in India's Textile and Apparel Industry: Reworking Historical Legacies in a post-MFA World,” . Environment and Planning A , 38 ( 12 ) : 2325 – 44 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Tewari , M. 2006b . “Is Price and Cost Competitiveness Enough for Apparel Firms to Gain Market Share in the World after Quotas? A Review,” . Global Economy Journal , 6 ( 4 ) : 1 – 46 .
   Google Scholar
• Türkün-Erendil , A. 2000 . “Denizli as Myth and Reality: The Changing Structure of Production and Labor,” . Toplum ve Bilim , 86 : 91 – 117 .
   Google Scholar
• UNCTAD . 2005 . Weaving a New World: Realizing Development Gains in a Post-ATC Trading System New York http://www.unctad.org/en/docs//ditctncd20053_en.pdf (downloaded 18 March 2009)
   Google Scholar
• USITC . 2004 . Textiles and Apparel: Assessment of the Competitiveness of Certain Foreign Suppliers to the US Market Washington, DC http://63.173.254.11/pub3671/pub3671.pdf (downloaded 18 March 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Uygur , E. 1998 . “Export Policies and Export Performance: The Case of Turkey,” . In Opening Doors to the World: A New Trade Agenda for the Middle East , Edited by: Safidi , R. 199-245 Cairo : American University in Cairo Press .
   Google Scholar
• Vijayabaskar , M. 1999 . “Flexible Production and Labour Market Outcomes: A Case Study of Cotton Knitwear Industry,” . Indian Journal of Labour Economics , 42 ( 4 ) : 815 – 27 .
   Google Scholar
• Vijayabaskar , M. 2002 . “Dimensions of Children's Work in the Cotton Knitwear Industry in Tiruppur,” . Indian Journal of Labour Economics , 45 ( 3 ) : 561 – 76 .
   Google Scholar
• Wade , R. 1990 . Governing the Market: Economic Theory and the Role of Government in East Asian Industrialization , Princeton : Princeton University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Waterbury , J. 1993 . Exposed to Innumerable Delusions: Public Enterprise and State Power in Egypt, India, Mexico and Turkey , Cambridge : Cambridge University Press .
   Google Scholar
• World Trade Organization . 2008 . http://www.wto.org/english/res_e/statis_e/its2008_e/section2_e/ii69.xls and http://www.wto.org/english/res_e/statis_e/its2008_e/section2_e/ii64.xls (downloaded 20 April 2009)
   Google Scholar
• Wright , M. 2003 . “Factory Daughters and Chinese Modernity: A Case from Dongguan,” . Geoforum , 34 ( 3 ) : 291 – 301 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Yilmaz , N. , Cassill , N. and Powell , N. 2007 . “Turkish Towels Place in the Global Market,” . Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management , 5 ( 4 ) : 1 – 24 .
   Google Scholar