Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action

References

• Amca, A. M., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S., & Berton, E. (2012). Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 30, 669–677.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Andersen, V., Fimland, M. S., Wiik, E., Skoglund, A., & Saeterbakken, A. H. (2014). Effects of grip width on muscle strength and activation in the lat pull-down. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research., 28, 1135–1142.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Antinori, F., Felici, F., Figura, M., Marchetti, M., & Ricci, B. (1988). Joint Moments and work in Pull-ups. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness., 28, 132–137.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Amarantini, D., & Martin, L., (2004). A method to combine numerical optimization and EMG data for the estimation of joint moments under dynamic conditions. Journal of Biomechanics, 37, 1393–1404.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Baláš, J. (2017). Muscular strength and endurance in climbers. In L. Seifert, P. Wolf, & A. Schweizer (Ed.), pp 147-163. The science of climbing and mountaineering. Oxford: Routledge.
   Google Scholar
• Baláš, J., Panáčková, M., Jandová, S., Martin, A. J., Strejcová, B., Vomáčko, L., … Draper, N. (2014). The effect of climbing ability and slope inclination on vertical foot loading using a novel force sensor instrumentation system. Journal of Human Kinetics., 30, 75–78.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bourdin, C., Teasdale, N., & Nougier, V. (1998). Attentional demands and the organization of reaching movements in rock climbing. Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 69, 406–410.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bourne, R., Halaki, M., Vanwanseele, B., & Clarke, J. (2011). Measuring lifting forces in rock climbing: Effect of hold size and fingertip structure. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 27, 40–46.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Cutts, A., & Bollen, S. R. (1993). Grip strength and endurance in rock climbers. Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part H: Journal of Engineering in Medicine, 207, 87–92.
   PubMedGoogle Scholar
• Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Priestley, S., Fryer, S., Marshall, H., & Ellis, G. (2011). Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness., 51, 417–425.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Giles, D., Schöffl, V., Konstantin, F., Watts, P., Wolf, P., … Abreu, E. (2016). Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement. Sports Technology. doi:10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081
   Google Scholar
• Epling, S., Blakely, M., Russel, P., & Helton, W. (2017). Interference between a fast-paced spatial puzzle task and verbal memory demands. Experimental Brain Research. doi:10.1007/s00221-017-4938-z
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A., & Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 14, 301–309.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Hermens, H. J., Freriks, B., Disselhorst-Klug, C., & Rau, G. (2000). Development of recommendations for SEMG sensors and sensor placement procedures. Journal of Electromyography and Kinesiology, 10, 361–374.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Koyama, Y., Kobayashi, H., Suzuki, S., & Enoka, R. M. (2010). Enhancing the weight training experience: A comparison of limb kinematics and EMG activity on three machines. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 109, 789–801.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Li, Z. M., Latash, M. L., & Zatsiorsky, V. M. (1998). Force sharing among fingers as a model of the redundancy problem. Experimental Brain Research, 119, 276–286.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Martin, J. R., Zatsiorsky, V. M., & Latash, M. L. (2011). Multi-finger interaction during involuntary and voluntary single force changes. Experimental Brain Research, 208, 423–435.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Philippe, M., Wegst, D., Müller, T., Raschner, C., & Burtscher, M. (2012). Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 112, 2839–2847.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Quaine, F., Martin, L., Leroux, M., Blanchi, J. P., & Allard, P. (1996). Effect of initial posture on biomechanical adjustments associated with a voluntary leg movement in rock climbers. Archives of Physiology and Biochemistry, 104, 192–199.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Quaine, F., & Vigouroux, L. (2004). Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips. International Journal of Sport Medicine, 25, 634–637.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Quaine, F., Vigouroux, L., & Martin, L. (2003). Finger flexors fatigue in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 24, 424–427.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Ricci, B., Figura, F., Felici, M., & Marchetti, M. (1988). Comparison of male and female functional capacity in pull-ups. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness., 28, 168–174.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Jones, G., & Sanchez, J. G. (2017). Psychological processes in the sport of climbing. In L. Seifert, P. Wolf, & A. Schweizer (Ed.), The science of climbing and mountaineering. Oxford: Routledge. pp 244-256.
   Google Scholar
• Usaj, A. (2002). Differences in the oxygenation of the forearm muscle during isometric contractions in trained and untrained subjects. Cellular and Molecular Biology Letters, 7, 375–377.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Vigouroux, L., Goislard de Monsabert, B., & Berton, E. (2015). Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock-climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 115, 947–957.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Vigouroux, L., & Quaine, F. (2006). Fingertip force and electromyography of finger flexor muscles during a prolonged intermittent exercise in elite climbers and sedentary individuals. Journal of Sports Sciences, 24, 181–186.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Vigouroux, L., Rossi, J., Foissac, M., Grélot, L., & Berton, E. (2011). Finger force sharing during an adapted power grip task. Journal of Neuroscience Letters, 504, 290–294.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts, P. B. (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 91(4), 361–372.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Winter, D. (1990). Biomechanics and motor control of human movement. New-York, NY: Wiley-Interscience.
   Google Scholar
• Youdas, J. W., Amundson, C. L., Cicero, K. S., Hahn, J. J., Harezlak, D. T., & Hollman, J. H. (2010). Surface electromyographic activation patterns and elbow joint motion during a pull-up, chin-up, or perfect-pullup™ rotational exercise. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research., 24, 3404–3414.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar