2,388
Views
5
CrossRef citations to date
0
Altmetric
Articles

Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance

ORCID Icon, , ORCID Icon &
Pages 627-637 | Received 20 Jan 2021, Accepted 25 Jan 2022, Published online: 22 Apr 2022

References

  • Amca, A. M., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S., & Berton, E. (2012). Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 30(7), 669–677. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2012.658845
  • Backe, S., Ericson, L., Janson, S., & Timpka, T. (2009). Rock climbing injury rates and associated risk factors in a general climbing population. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 19(6), 850–856. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0838.2008.00851.x
  • Baláš, J., Mrskoč, J., Panáčková, M., & Draper, N. (2014). Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers. Sports Technology, 7(3–4), 151–158. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1012082
  • Baláš, J., Pecha, O., Martin, A. J., & Cochrane, D. (2012). Hand–arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. European Journal of Sport Science, 12(1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2010.546431
  • Bergua, P., Montero-Marin, J., Gomez-Bruton, A., & Casajus, J. A. (2020). The finger flexors occlusion threshold in sport-climbers: An exploratory study on its indirect approximation. European Journal of Sport Science, 21(9), 1234–1242. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2020.1827047
  • Brocken, J. E. A., van der Kamp, J., Lenoir, M., & Savelsbergh, G. J. P. (2020). Equipment modification can enhance skill learning in young field hockey players. International Journal of Sports Science & Coaching, 15(3), 382–389. https://doi.org/10.1177/1747954120918964
  • Carroll, T. J., Benjamin, B., Stephan, R., & Carson, R. G. (2001). Resistance training enhances the stability of sensorimotor coordination. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series B: Biological Sciences, 268(1464), 221–227. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2000.1356
  • Davids, K., Glazier, P., Araújo, D., & Bartlett, R. (2003). Movement systems as dynamical systems: The functional role of variability and its implications for sports medicine. Sports Medicine, 33(4), 245–260. https://doi.org/10.2165/00007256-200333040-00001
  • Deyhle, M. R., Hsu, H. S., Fairfield, T. J., Cadez-Schmidt, T. L., Gurney, B. A., & Mermier, C. M. (2015). Relative importance of four muscle groups for indoor rock climbing performance. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 29(7), 2006–2014. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000000823
  • DiFiori, J. P., Benjamin, H. J., Brenner, J. S., Gregory, A., Jayanthi, N., Landry, G. L., & Luke, A. (2014). Overuse injuries and burnout in youth sports: A position statement from the American medical society for sports medicine. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 48(4), 287–288. https://doi.org/10.1136/bjsports-2013-093299
  • Donath, L., & Wolf, P. (2015). Reliability of force application to instrumented climbing holds in elite climbers. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 31(5), 377–382. https://doi.org/10.1123/jab.2015-0019
  • Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Fryer, S., Priestley, S., Winter, D., & Ellis, G. (2011). Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 29(8), 851–858. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2011.565362
  • Draper, N., Giles, D., Schöffl, V., Konstantin Fuss, F., Watts, P., Wolf, P., Baláš, J., Espana-Romero, V., Blunt Gonzalez, G., Fryer, S., Fanchini, M., Vigouroux, L., Seifert, L., Donath, L., Spoerri, M., Bonetti, K., Phillips, K., Stöcker, U., Bourassa-Moreau, F., … Abreu, E. (2015). Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International rock climbing research association position statement. Sports Technology, 8(3–4), 88–94. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081
  • Feldmann, A. M., Erlacher, D., Pfister, S., & Lehmann, R. (2020). Muscle oxygen dynamics in elite climbers during finger-hang tests at varying intensities. Scientific Reports, 10(1), Article 3040. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-60029-y
  • Field, A. P. (2009). Discovering statistics using SPSS: And sex and drugs and rock ‘n’ roll. SAGE Publications.
  • Fuss, F. K., & Niegl, G. (2008). Instrumented climbing holds and performance analysis in sport climbing. Sports Technology, 1(6), 301–313. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2008.9648487
  • Fuss, F. K., Weizman, Y., Burr, L., & Niegl, G. (2013). Assessment of grip difficulty of a smart climbing hold with increasing slope and decreasing depth. Sports Technology, 6(3), 122–129. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2013.854800
  • Giles, D., Chidley, J. B., Taylor, N., Torr, O., Hadley, J., Randall, T., & Fryer, S. (2019). The determination of finger-flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 14(7), 972–979. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2018-0809
  • Giles, D., Hartley, C., Maslen, H., Vigouroux, L., España-Romero, V., Baláš, J., Solar Altamirano, I., Mally, F., Beeretz, I., Couceiro Canalejo, J., Josseron, G., Kodejška, J., Arias Téllez, M. J., & Cabeza de Vaca, G. G. (2021). An all-out test to determine finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 16(7), 942–949. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2020-0672
  • Hamill, J., Palmer, C., & Van Emmerik, R. E. (2012). Coordinative variability and overuse injury. Sports Medicine, Arthroscopy, Rehabilitation, Therapy & Technology, 4(1), 45. https://doi.org/10.1186/1758-2555-4-45
  • Hatch, T., & Leonardon, F. (2018). Rules. IFSC.
  • Jayanthi, N. A., LaBella, C. R., Fischer, D., Pasulka, J., & Dugas, L. R. (2015). Sports-specialized intensive training and the risk of injury in young athletes: A clinical case-control study. The American Journal of Sports Medicine, 43(4), 794–801. https://doi.org/10.1177/0363546514567298
  • Koo, T. K., & Li, M. Y. (2016). A guideline of selecting and reporting intraclass correlation coefficients for reliability research. Journal of Chiropractic Medicine, 15(2), 155–163. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jcm.2016.02.012
  • Laffaye, G., Levernier, G., & Collin, J. M. (2016). Determinant factors in climbing ability: Influence of strength, anthropometry, and neuromuscular fatigue. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 26(10), 1151–1159. https://doi.org/10.1111/sms.12558
  • Levernier, G., & Laffaye, G. (2021). Rate of force development and maximal force: Reliability and difference between non-climbers, skilled and international climbers. Sports Biomechanics, 20(4), 495–506. https://doi.org/10.1080/14763141.2019.1584236
  • MacLeod, D., Sutherland, D. L., Buntin, L., Whitaker, A., Aitchison, T., Watt, I., Bradley, J., & Grant, S. (2007). Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Sports Sciences, 25(12), 1433–1443. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640410600944550
  • Michailov, M. L., Baláš, J., Tanev, S. K., Andonov, H. S., Kodejška, J., & Brown, L. (2018). Reliability and validity of finger strength and endurance measurements in rock climbing. Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 89(1), 1–9. https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2017.1413230
  • Orth, D., Davids, K., & Seifert, L. (2016). Coordination in climbing: Effect of skill, practice and constraints manipulation. Sports Medicine, 46(2), 255–268. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40279-015-0417-5
  • Orth, D., Davids, K., & Seifert, L. (2018). Constraints representing a meta-stable régime facilitate exploration during practice and transfer of learning in a complex multi-articular task. Human Movement Science, 57, 291–302. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.humov.2017.09.007
  • Orth, D., Kerr, G., Davids, K., & Seifert, L. (2017). Analysis of relations between spatiotemporal movement regulation and performance of discrete actions reveals functionality in skilled climbing. Review. Frontiers in Psychology, 8, Article 1744. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2017.01744
  • Orth, D., van der Kamp, J., Memmert, D., & Savelsbergh, G. (2017). Creative motor actions as emerging from movement variability. Frontiers in Psychology, 8, Article 1903. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2017.01903
  • Philippe, M., Wegst, D., Muller, T., Raschner, C., & Burtscher, M. (2012). Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 112(8), 2839–2847. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-011-2260-1
  • Phillips, K. C., Sassaman, J. M., & Smoliga, J. M. (2012). Optimizing rock climbing performance through sport-specific strength and conditioning. Strength and Conditioning Journal, 34(3), 1–18. https://doi.org/10.1519/SSC.0b013e318255f012
  • Pollard, C. D., Stearns, K. M., Hayes, A. T., & Heiderscheit, B. C. (2015). Altered lower extremity movement variability in female soccer players during side-step cutting after anterior cruciate ligament reconstruction. The American Journal of Sports Medicine, 43(2), 460–465. https://doi.org/10.1177/0363546514560153
  • Saeterbakken, A. H., Andersen, V., Stien, N., Pedersen, H., Solstad, T. E. J., Shaw, M. P., Meslo, M., Wergeland, A., Vereide, V. A., & Hermans, E. (2020). The effects of acute blood flow restriction on climbing-specific tests. Movement & Sport Sciences - Science & Motricité, 109(3), 7–14. https://doi.org/10.1051/sm/2020004
  • Sanchez, X., Lambert, P., Jones, G., & Llewellyn, D. J. (2012). Efficacy of pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 22(1), 67–72. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0838.2010.01151.x
  • Schreiber, T., Allenspach, P., Seifert, B., & Schweizer, A. (2015). Connective tissue adaptations in the fingers of performance sport climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 15(8), 696–702. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1048747
  • Schweizer, A., & Hudek, R. (2011). Kinetics of crimp and slope grip in rock climbing. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 27(2), 116–121. https://doi.org/10.1123/jab.27.2.116
  • Seifert, L., Komar, J., Araújo, D., & Davids, K. (2016). Neurobiological degeneracy: A key property for functional adaptations of perception and action to constraints. Neuroscience and Biobehavioral Reviews, 69, 159–165. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.neubiorev.2016.08.006
  • Seifert, L., Orth, D., Herault, R., & Davids, K. (2013). Affordances and grasping action variability during rock climbing. In T. J. Davis, P. Passos, M. Dicks, & J. A. Weast-Knapp (Eds.), Studies in perception and action: Seventeenth International conference on perception and action (pp. 114–118). Psychology Press.
  • Senna, G. W., Willardson, J. M., Scudese, E., Simão, R., Queiroz, C., Avelar, R., & Martin Dantas, E. H. (2016). Effect of different interset rest intervals on performance of single and multijoint exercises with near-maximal loads. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 30(3), 710–716. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001142
  • Stergiou, N., & Decker, L. M. (2011). Human movement variability, nonlinear dynamics, and pathology: Is there a connection? Human Movement Science, 30(5), 869–888. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.humov.2011.06.002
  • Vigouroux, L., & Quaine, F. (2006). Fingertip force and electromyography of finger flexor muscles during a prolonged intermittent exercise in elite climbers and sedentary individuals. Journal of Sports Sciences, 24(2), 181–186. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640410500127785
  • Vigouroux, L., Quaine, F., Labarre-Vila, A., & Moutet, F. (2006). Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. Journal of Biomechanics, 39(14), 2583–2592. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbiomech.2005.08.027
  • Wall, C. B., Starek, J. E., Fleck, S. J., & Byrnes, W. C. (2004). Prediction of indoor climbing performance in women rock climbers. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 18(1), 77–83. https://doi.org/10.1519/1533–4287(2004)018<0077:poicpi>2.0.co;2
  • Watts, P. B., Jensen, R. L., Gannon, E., Kobeinia, R., Maynard, J., & Sansom, J. (2008). Forearm EMG during rock climbing differs from EMG during handgrip dynamometry. International Journal of Exercise Science, 1(1), 4–13. https://digitalcommons.wku.edu/ijes/vol1/iss1/2/
  • White, D. J., & Olsen, P. D. (2010). A time motion analysis of bouldering style competitive rock climbing. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 24(5), 1356–1360. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0b013e3181cf75bd
  • Wilson, R. S., David, G. K., Murphy, S. C., Angilletta, M. J., Niehaus, A. C., Hunter, A. H., & Smith, M. D. (2017). Skill not athleticism predicts individual variation in match performance of soccer players. Proceedings of the Royal Society B, 284(1868), 20170953. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2017.0953
  • Wormhoudt, R., Savelsbergh, G. J., Teunissen, J. W., & Davids, K. (2017). The athletic skills model: Optimizing talent development through movement education. Routledge.
  • Wulf, G. (2008). Attentional focus effects in balance acrobats. Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 79(3), 319–325. https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2008.10599495