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Nineteenth-Century Contexts
An Interdisciplinary Journal
Volume 17, 1993 - Issue 1
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Original Articles

Who wears the pants here? The policing of women's dress in nineteenth‐century England, Germany and France

Pages 17-33 | Published online: 01 Jul 2008

Notes

  • Anderson , Bonnie and Zinsser , Judith . 1988 . A History of Their Own: Women in Europe from Prehistory to the Present , Vol. II , 143 – 148 . New York : Harper & Row . See the enlightening discussion of fashion in
  • Grand‐Carteret , John . 1889 . La Femme en culotte , Paris : Flammarion . All translations from this work are mine.
  • Lombardi‐Nash , Michael D. , ed. 1991 . Transvestites: The Erotic Drive to Cross‐Dress , Buffalo : Prometheus Books . first published Berlin: Pulvermacher, 1910).
  • Garber , Marjorie . 1992 . Vested Interests: Cross‐dressing & Cultural Anxiety , 26 – 27 . New York and London : Routledge .
  • Anderson and Zinsser . A History of Their Own , II 147 – 151 .
  • Stoller , Robert J. 1968 . Sex and Gender , New York : Science House . is frequently cited as the authoritative text on transvestism.
  • Ackroyd , Peter . 1979 . Dressing Up. Transvestism and Drag: The History of an Obsession , 25 – 34 . New York : Simon & Schuster . presents a useful introduction to the clinical history of transvestism in
  • Woodhouse , Annie . 1989 . Fantastic Women: Sex, Gender and Transvestism , 18 65 – 76 . New Brunswick : Rutgers University Press . gives a good summary of contemporary theory
  • Feinbloom , Deborah Heller . 1976 . Transvestites and Transsexuals: Mixed Views , New York : Dell, A Delta Book .
  • Woodhouse , Annie . Fantastic Women , x 6 – 16 .
  • Woodhouse . Fantastic Women , 59 – 76 . For an insightful discussion of conservative gender ideologies in the modern clinic,
  • Garber . Vested Interests , 71
  • Gubar , Susan . 1981 . “Blessings in Disguise: Cross‐dressing as Re‐dressing for Female Modernists,” . The Massachusetts Review , Autumn : 477 – 508 .
  • Brierley , Harry . 1979 . Transvestism: A Handbook with Case Studies for Psychologists, Psychiatrists and Counsellors , 150 Oxford : Pergamon Press .
  • Roberts , Helene E. 1977 . “The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,” . Signs , 2 ( 3 ) Spring : 554 – 569 .
  • Grand‐Cartert . La Femrne en culotte , 218
  • Ackroyd , Peter . Dressing Up , 72 – 77 .
  • Ackroyd , Peter . Dressing Up , 82 – 83 .
  • Weeks , Jeffrey . 1981 . Sex, Politics and Society: The Regulation of Sexuality Since 1800 , 101 – 102 . 111 New York : Longman .
  • Hirschfeld . Transvestites , 303 – 304 .
  • Grand‐Carteret . La Femme en culotte , 114–116
  • Robertson , Priscilla . 1982 . An Experience of Women: Pattern and Change in Nineteenth‐Century Europe , 361 – 363 . Philadelphia : Temple University Press .
  • Grand‐Carteret . La Femme en culotte , 210 – 237 .
  • 1844 . Collection officielle des Ordon‐nances de Police depuis 1800 jusqu'à 1844 , Vol. I , 53 – 54 . Paris : Librairie Administrative de Paul Dupont .
  • Steele , Valerie . 1988 . Paris Fashion: A Cultural History , New York and Oxford : Oxford University Press . especially 162–176.
  • Moses , Claire Golberg . 1984 . French Feminism in the Nineteenth Century , 197 – 198 . Albany : State University of New York Press .
  • Sand , George . 1971 . Histoire de ma vie , Vol. II , 116 – 117 . 331 Paris : Pléiade .
  • Colette . 1960 . Le Pur et I'impur in Oeuvres de Colette , Vol. III , 330 Paris : Flammarion . my translation. “Old man Lépine” was the Parisian prefect of police at that time.
  • Benstock , Shari . 1986 . Women of the Left Bank , 49 – 50 . Austin : University of Texas Press .
  • Hirschfeld . Transvestites , 355 – 356 .
  • Garber . Vested Interests , 67 – 70 .
  • Grand‐Carteret . La Femme en culotte , 192
  • Roberts , Helene E. 1977 . “The Exquisitive Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman,” . Signs , 2 ( 3 ) Spring : 557
  • Hirschfeld . Transvestites , 274 – 275 .
  • 1969 . Bulletin municipal officiel de la Ville de Paris , 20 June : 970

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