325
Views
0
CrossRef citations to date
0
Altmetric
Articles

The “decline” of London’s curry houses invented tradition, authenticity, gastromythology

Pages 443-465 | Received 24 Apr 2022, Accepted 01 Aug 2023, Published online: 08 Aug 2023

References

  • Acton, E. 1845. Modern Cookery, in all its Branches: Reduced to a System of Easy Practice. London: Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans.
  • Åkestam, N., S. Rosengren, and M. Dahlen. 2017. “Advertising “Like a Girl”: Toward a Better Understanding of “Femvertising” and its Effects.” Psychology & Marketing 34 (8): 795–806.
  • Alexander, C., S. Carey, S. Lidher, S. Hall, and J. King. 2020. Beyond Banglatown Continuity, Change and new Urban Economies in Brick Lane. London: Runnymede.
  • "And Mr. Mohamed Too". 2002, April 9. The Guardian. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/world/2002/apr/09/religion.uk. Accessed on 2 January 2016.
  • Appadurai, A. 1988. “How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India.” Comparative Studies in Society and History 30 (1): 3–4.
  • Assael, B. 2013. “Gastro-cosmopolitanism and the Restaurant in Late Victorian and Edwardian London.” The Historical Journal 56 (3): 681–706.
  • Atkinson, G. F. 1859. Curry and Rice: The Ingredients of Social Life at “Our Station” in India. London: Day & Son.
  • Barthes, R. 1957. Mythologies. Trans. A. Lavers. New York: Reprint.
  • Barthes, R. 1997. “Toward a Psychosociology of Contemporary Food Consumption.” In Food and Culture: A Reader, edited by Carole Counihan, and Penny Van Esterik, 20–28. New York: Routledge.
  • Basu, S. 2011. Curry: The Story of Britain’s Favorite Dish. New Delhi: Rupa.
  • Bissell, P., M. Peacock, M. Holdsworth, K. Powell, J. Wilcox, and A. Clonan. 2018. “Introducing the Idea of ‘Assumed Shared Food Narratives’ in the Context of Social Networks: Reflections from a Qualitative Study Conducted in Nottingham, England.” Sociology of Health & Illness 40 (7): 1142–1155.
  • Brennan, J. 1990. Curries and Bugles: A Memoir and a Cookbook of the British Raj. London: Harper Collins.
  • Brownlie, D., P. Hewer, and S. Horne. 2005. “Culinary Tourism: An Exploratory Reading of Contemporary Representations of Cooking.” Consumption Markets & Culture 8 (1): 7–26.
  • Buettner, E. 2008. “Going for an Indian”: South Asian Restaurants and the Limits of Multiculturalism in Britain.” The Journal of Modern History 80 (4): 865–901.
  • Buettner, E. 2009. “Chicken Tikka Masala, Flock Wallpaper, and “Real” Home Cooking: Assessing Britain’s “Indian” Restaurant Traditions.” Food and History 7 (2): 203–229.
  • Burton, D. 1993. The Raj at Table: A Culinary History of British in India. London: Faber and Faber.
  • Butler, S. 2022. ‘“It’s Not About Big Brands”: How Will UK Casual Dining Fare After Covid?’ The Guardian, 26 March 2022. https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/mar/26/uk-casual-dining-covid-independent-restaurants. Accessed: 20/08/2022.
  • Cecil, Nicholas. 2016. ‘Minister Priti Patel: Quit EU to Save Our Curry Houses.’ Evening Standard, May 18. https://www.standard.co.uk/news/politics/minister-priti-patel-quit-eu-to-save-our-curry-houses-a3251071.html. Accessed: 20/08/2022.
  • Chapman, P. 2007. India Food & Cooking: The Ultimate Book on Indian Cuisine. London: Vintage Books.
  • Chatterjee, A. K. 2021a. “‘Luca Brasi Sleeps with the Fishes’: The Gastromythology of The Godfather Trilogy.” In Food Culture Studies in India, edited by Simi Malhotra, Sakshi Dogra, and Kanika Sharma, 67–83. Singapore: Springer.
  • Chatterjee, A. K. 2021b. Indians in London: From the Birth of the East India Company to Independent India. London and New Delhi: Bloomsbury Publishing.
  • Chatterjee, A. K. 2022. “The Gastromythology of English Tea Culture: On the UKTC’s Advertisements and Making Tea a ‘Fact’ of English Life.” Canadian Journal of History 57 (1): 47–80.
  • Chaudhuri, N. 1992. “Shawls, Jewelry, Curry and Rice in Victorian Britain.” In Western Women and Imperialism: Complicity and Resistance, edited by N. Chaudhuri and M. Strobel, 79–98. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.
  • Collingham, L. 2006. Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. New York: Oxford University Press.
  • Collins, W. 1868. The Moonstone. New York: Harper & Brothers.
  • Collins, Wilkie. 1979. The Moonstone. BBC Radio 4, October 28. Dramatized by Brian Gear with music composed by Sidney Sager and directed by Brian Miller. Bristol.
  • ‘Cookery’. 1837. The Magazine of Domestic Economy, Vol. 2. London: W.S. Orr & Co.
  • Curry Around the World. 1983. The Spice of Life. TV Series. Narrated by Edward Woodward. Channel 4. United Kingdom.
  • ‘Curry Statistics’. 1991. The Cobra Indian Lager Good Curry Restaurant Guide, (Ed.). London: Pat Chapman.
  • Deloitte. 2017. Changing Tastes: The UK Casual Dining Market. London: Deloitte.
  • Deloitte. 2021. ‘Restaurants to Contend with the Practicalities of Shifting Online and Reopening Safely.’ Deloitte. https://www2.deloitte.com/uk/en/pages/consumer-business/articles/restaurants-to-contend-with-the-practicalities-of-shifting-online-and-reopening-safely.html. Accessed: 20/08/2022.
  • Eliot, T. S. 1982. “Tradition and the Individual Talent.” Perspecta 19: 36–42.
  • Eliiot, T. S. 1920. “Tradition and Individual Talent.” In The Sacred Wood, 42–53. London: Methuen.
  • Elliot, C. 2008. “Consuming the Other: Packaged Representations of Foreignness in President’s Choice.” In Edible Ideologies: Representing Food and Meaning, edited by Kathleen Lebesco, and Peter Naccarato, 179–198. Albany: State University of New York.
  • Emontspool, J., and C. Georgi. 2017. “A Cosmopolitan Return to Nature: How Combining Aesthetization and Moralization Processes Expresses Distinction in Food Consumption.” Consumption Markets and Culture 20 (4): 306–328.
  • Fisher, M. H. 2004. Counterflows to Colonialism: Indian Travellers and Settlers in Britain, 1600-1857. New Delhi: Permanent Black.
  • Fisher, M. H., S. Lahiri, and S. S. Thandi. 2007. A South-Asian History of Britain. Oxford and Connecticut: Greenwood World Publishing.
  • Freathy, P., and I. Thomas. 2015. “Marketplace Metaphors: Communicating Authenticity Through Visual Imagery.” Consumption Markets & Culture 18 (2): 178–194.
  • Gardner, K. 1993. “‘Desh-Bidesh’: Sylheti Images of Home and Away.” Man 28 (1): 1–15.
  • Girardelli, D. 2004. “Commodified Identities: The Myth of Italian Food in the United States.” Journal of Communication Inquiry 28 (4): 307–324.
  • "Glasgow 'invented' Tikka Masala". 2009, July 21. BBC, 21. Available at: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/glasgow_and_west/8161812.stm (Accessed on 20 December 2018).
  • Goldberg, D. T. 2014. Sites of Race: Conversations with Susan Searls Giroux. Cambridge and Malden: Polity.
  • Grove, P., and C. Grove. 2005. Curry Culture: A Very British Love Affair. Surbiton: Menu Publications.
  • Hervey, H. A. 1895. Anglo-Indian Cookery at Home: A Short Treatise for Returned Exiles. London: Horace Cox.
  • Highmore, B. 2009. “The Taj Mahal in the High Street: The Indian Restaurant as Diasporic Popular Culture in Britain.” Food, Culture & Society 12 (2): 173–190.
  • Hobsbawm, E., and T. Ranger, eds. 2012. The Invention of Tradition. London and Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
  • Holt, D. B. 2004. How Brands Become Icons: The Principles of Cultural Branding. Cambridge, MA: Harvard Business School Press.
  • Holt, D. B. 2005. “How Societies Desire Brands: Using Cultural Theory to Explain Brand Symbolism.” In Inside Consumption: Consumer Motives, Goals, and Desires, edited by S. Ratneshwar, and David Glen Mick, 273–291. London and New York: Routledge.
  • Holt, D. B. 2006. “Jack Daniel’s America: Iconic Brands as Ideological Parasites and Proselytizers.” Journal of Consumer Culture 6 (3): 355–377.
  • Holt, D. B. 2018. “Whiskey: Marketplace Icon.” Consumption Markets & Culture 21 (1): 76–81.
  • Irving, W. 1871. Bracebridge Hall, or The Humorists: A Medley. Philadelphia: J.P. Lippincott & Co.
  • Jaffrey, M. 1987. An Invitation to Indian Cooking. New York: Knopf 1973.
  • Jaffrey, M. 2012. Curry Nation. London: Ebury.
  • Jahangir, R. 2009. How Britain got the Hots for Curry. BBC. Accessed January 6, 2016. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/8370054.stm.
  • Jhala, A. D. 2012. “Cosmopolitan Kitchens: Cooking for Princely Zenanas.” In Curried Cultures: Globalization, Food, and South Asia, edited by Krishendu Ray, and Tulasi Srinivas, 49–72. Berkeley: University of California Press.
  • "Joy of Curry". 2003. Documentary. Narrated by Neil Morrissey. BBC 2. United Kingdom.
  • Kebble, M. 2016. Veeraswamy: Adding Spice to London for 90 Years. The Resident, June 27, https://www.theresident.co.uk/food-drink-london/veeraswamy-adding-spice-london-90-years. Accessed: 20/09/2018.
  • Kniazeva, M., and R. W. Belk. 2007. “Packaging as Vehicle for Mythologizing the Brand.” Consumption Markets & Culture 10 (1): 51–69.
  • Komiya, K. 2020. ‘A Majority of Consumers Expect Brands to Take a Stand on Issues Before Purchasing, Survey Finds.’ Barron’s, July 7. https://www.barrons.com/articles/a-majority-of-consumers-expect-brands-to-take-a-stand-on-issues-before-purchasing-survey-finds-51594143666. Accessed: 20/12/2022.
  • LeBesco, K., and P. Naccarato. 2008. “Introduction.” In Edible Ideologies: Representing Food and Meaning, edited by K. Lebesco, and P. Naccarato, 1–13. Albany: State University of New York.
  • Leong-Salobir, C. 2011. Food Culture in Colonial Asia: A Taste of Empire. London: Routledge.
  • Levy, Sidney J. 1981. “Interpreting Consumer Mythology: A Structural Approach to Consumer Behavior.” Journal of Marketing 45 (Summer): 49–61.
  • Maclaran, P., M. K. Hogg, and A. Bradshaw. 2009. “Cultural Influences on Representations of the Consumer in Marketing Theory.” In The SAGE Handbook of Marketing Theory, edited by Pauline Maclaran, Michael Saren, Barbara Stern, and Mark Tadajewski, 332–352. London and Thousand Oaks: Sage.
  • Maroney, S. R. 2012. ““To Make a Curry the India Way”: Tracking the Meaning of Curry Across Eighteenth-Century Communities.” In Local Foods Meet Global Foodways: Tasting History, edited by Benjamin N. Lawrance, and Carolyn de la Peña, 126–138. New York and Abingdon: Routledge.
  • Marshall, D. 2005. “Food as Ritual, Routine or Convention.” Consumption Markets & Culture 8 (1): 69–85.
  • Martin, E. 2005. “Food, Literature, art, and the Demise of Dualistic Thought.” Consumption Markets & Culture 8 (1): 27–48.
  • McCormack, B. 2022. ‘Best Indian Restaurants in London 2022, from Gymkhana to Tayyabs.’ Evening Standard, April 22. https://www.standard.co.uk/reveller/restaurants/best-indian-restaurants-london-2022-soho-north-east-b995070.html. Accessed: 10/08/2022.
  • Monroe, J. 2005. Star of India: The Spicy Adventures of Curry. Chichester: Wiley.
  • Musaddique, S. 2022. ‘British Curry: A Dish That Defines Queen Elizabeth’s Reign?’ The Christian Science Monitor. June 3, 2022. https://www.csmonitor.com/World/Europe/2022/0603/British-curry-A-dish-that-defines-Queen-Elizabeth-s-reign. Accessed: 20/08/2022.
  • Narayan, U. 1995. “Eating Cultures: Incorporation, Identity and Indian Food.” Social Identities: Journal for the Study of Race, Nation and Culture 1 (1): 63–86.
  • Nettleton, S., and E. Uprichard. 2011. “A Slice of Life’: Food Narratives and Menus from Mass-Observers in 1982 and 1945.” Sociological Research Online 16 (2): 99–107.
  • O’Kane, G., and B. Pamphilon. 2016. “The Importance of Stories in Understanding People’s Relationship to Food: Narrative Inquiry Methodology has Much to Offer the Public Health Nutrition Researcher and Practitioner.” Public Health Nutrition 19 (4): 585–592.
  • Palat, R. A. 2015. “Empire, Food and the Diaspora: Indian Restaurants in Britain.” South Asia: Journal of South Asian Studies 38 (2): 171–186.
  • Panayi, P. 2008. Spicing up Britain: The Multicultural History of British Food. London: Reaktion Books.
  • Pottier, J. 2014. “Savoring “The Authentic” The Emergence of a Bangladeshi Cuisine in East London.” Food, Culture & Society 17 (1): 7–26.
  • Procida, M. 2003. “Feeding the Imperial Appetite: Imperial Knowledge and Anglo-Indian Domesticity.” Journal of Women’s History 15 (2): 123–149.
  • Pugh, M. 2009. We Danced All Night: A Social History of Britain Between the Wars. London: Vintage.
  • Richardson, S. 2013. The Political Worlds of Women: Gender and Politics in Nineteenth Century Britain. London and New York: Routledge.
  • Robinson, Nick. 2016. ‘Who Will Cook Your Indian Curry?’ BBC, May 26, 2016. https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-politics-eu-referendum-36378655. Accessed: 20/09/2022.
  • Rundell, M. E. 1827. Domestic Economy, and Cookery, for Rich and Poor. London: Longman, Rees, Orme, Browne, and Green.
  • Scott, W. 1824. “St. Ronan's Well.” British Critic, Quarterly Theological Review, and Ecclesiastical Record 21 (1): 16–26.
  • Sen, C. T. 2009. Curry: A Global History. London: Reaktion Books.
  • Sengupta, J. 2012. “Nation on a Platter: The Culture and Politics of Food and Cuisine in Colonial Bengal.” In Curried Cultures: Globalization, Food, and South Asia, edited by Krishendu Ray, and Tulasi Srinivas, 73–87. Berkeley: University of California Press.
  • Sobande, F. 2019. “Woke-washing:“intersectional” Femvertising and Branding “Woke” Bravery.” European Journal of Marketing 54 (11): 2723–2745.
  • Soyer, A. 1851. The Modern Housewife: Or, Ménagère. London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co.
  • Srinivas, T. 2006. “As Mother Made It: Cosmopolitan Indian Family, ‘Authentic’ Food and the Construction of Cultural Utopia.” International Journal of the Sociology of the Family 32 (2): 191–221.
  • Stern, B. B. 1995. “Consumer Myths: Frye’s Taxonomy and the Structural Analysis of Consumption Text.” Journal of Consumer Research 22 (2): 165–185.
  • Swant, M. 2021. ‘Silence Is Not An Option: Research Shows Consumers Expect CEOs To Take A Stand On Political Issues.’ Forbes, April 19. https://www.forbes.com/sites/martyswant/2021/04/19/silence-is-not-an-option-research-shows-consumers-expect-ceos-to-take-a-stand-on-political-issues/?sh = 8fe22d846c6b. Accessed: 20/12/2022.
  • Thatcher, M. 1978. ‘TV Interview for Granada World in Action (“rather swamped”).’ Margaret Thatcher Foundation, Thatcher Archive: Granada transcript, interviewed by Gordon Burns, Granada TV, 27 January. https://www.margaretthatcher.org/document/103485. Accessed: 20/10/2022.
  • "The Great British Curry Trail". 2008. Documentary. Presenter, Ravinder Bhogal. BBC 2. United Kingdom.
  • Thompson, Craig J. 2004. “Marketplace Mythology and Discourses of Power.” Journal of Consumer Research 31 (June): 162–180.
  • ‘Two-thirds of Consumers Worldwide Now Buy on Beliefs’. 2018. Edelman, October 2. https://www.edelman.com/news-awards/two-thirds-consumers-worldwide-now-buy-beliefs. Accessed: 20/12/2022.
  • Varghese, N., and N. Kumar. 2022. “Feminism in Advertising: Irony or Revolution? A Critical Review of Femvertising.” Feminist Media Studies 22 (2): 441–459.
  • Varman, R. 2017. “Curry.” Consumption Markets & Culture 20 (4): 350–356.
  • Veerasawmy, E. P. 1936. Indian Cookery: For Use in All Countries. London: Herbert Joseph Ltd.
  • Visram, R. 2002. Asians in Britain: 400 Years of History. London: Pluto Press.
  • Waldrop, D. M. 2007. “A Curried Gaze: The British Ownership of Curry.” (M.A. Dissertation). University of Georgia: Athens.
  • ‘Wanted, an Anglo-Indian restaurant for London’. 1891. Caterer, 15 June: 211.
  • Ward, Sara. 2017. ‘Antique Cookbook From 1793 Found in Abbey—And It Has a Recipe for Chicken Curry.’ Mirror, March 27. https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/antique-cookbook-1793-found-abbey-10109190. Accessed: 20/08/2022.
  • White, W. 1845. Indian Cookery; or Fish Curries; Their Excellent Qualities, Easy and Speedy Preparation with Selim’s Curry Paste. London: Sherwood, Gilbert and Piper.
  • Wyvern. 1885. Culinary Jottings for Madras. Madras: Higginbotham & Co; London: Richardson & Co.
  • Yusuf, Huma. 2013. ‘The Threat to British Curry.’ The New York Times, November 29. https://archive.nytimes.com/latitude.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/11/. Accessed: 20/08/2022.
  • Zlotnick, S. 1996. “Domesticating Imperialism: Curry and Cookbooks in Victorian England.” Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies 16 (2/3): 51–68.

Reprints and Corporate Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

To request a reprint or corporate permissions for this article, please click on the relevant link below:

Academic Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

Obtain permissions instantly via Rightslink by clicking on the button below:

If you are unable to obtain permissions via Rightslink, please complete and submit this Permissions form. For more information, please visit our Permissions help page.