12,163
Views
10
CrossRef citations to date
0
Altmetric
Articles

The Ineffectiveness of CSR: Understanding Garment Company Commitments to Living Wages in Global Supply Chains

ORCID Icon, , ORCID Icon, &

References

  • ACT, 2020. ACT Factsheet [online]. Available from: https://actonlivingwages.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/ACT_COMMS_Factsheet_2020-WEB-1.pdf (accessed 12 April 2020).
  • Adams, R., 2017. Standard of living as a right, not a privilege: Is it time to change the dialogue from minimum wage to living wage? Business and society review, 122 (4), 613–639.
  • Anker, R. 2011. Estimating a living wage: A methodological review. Geneva: International Labour Organization Available from: https://www.ilo.org/public/libdoc//ilo/2011/111B09_199_engl.pdf (Accessed 16 March 2021).
  • Anker, R. and Anker, M. 2017. Living wages around the world: Manual for measurement (Elgar Online, https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.4337/9781786431462).
  • Anner, M., 2012. Corporate social responsibility and freedom of association rights: The precarious quest for legitimacy and control in global supply chains. Politics & society, 40 (4), 609–644.
  • Anner, M., 2017. Monitoring workers’ rights: The limits of voluntary social compliance initiatives in labor repressive regimes. Global Policy, 8 (3), 56–65.
  • Anner, M., 2019. Predatory purchasing practices in global supply chains and the employment relations squeeze in the Indian garment export sector. International labour review, 158 (4), 705–727.
  • Anner, M., 2020. Squeezing workers’ rights in global supply chains: purchasing practices in the Bangladesh garment export sector in comparative perspective. Review of international political economy, 27 (2), 320–347.
  • Anner, M., Bair, J., and Blasi, J., 2013. Towards joint liability in global supply chains: addressing the root causes of labor violations in international subcontracting networks. Comparative labor law and policy journal, 35 (1), 1–43.
  • Appelbaum, R. and Lichtenstein, N., eds. 2016. Achieving workers’ rights in the global economy. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press.
  • Banerjee, S.B., 2008. Corporate social responsibility: The good, the bad and the ugly. Critical Sociology, 34 (1), 51–79.
  • Banerjee, S.B., 2018. Markets and violence. Journal of marketing management, 34 (11–12), 1023–1031.
  • Barrientos, S. and Smith, S., 2007. Do workers benefit from ethical trade? assessing codes of labour practice in global production systems. Third world quarterly, 28 (4), 713–729.
  • Barrientos, S., Gereffi, G., and Rossi, A., 2011. Economic and social upgrading in global production networks: A new paradigm for a changing world. International labor review, 150 (3–4), 319–340.
  • Bartley, T., 2005. Corporate accountability and the privatization of labor standards: Struggles over codes of conduct in the apparel industry. Research in political sociology, 14, 211–244.
  • Bartley, T., 2018. Rules without rights: land, labor, and private authority in the global economy. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  • Brennan, J., 2019. Should employers pay a living wage? Journal of business ethics, 157, 15–26.
  • Burchell, J., and Cook, J., 2013. CSR, co-optation and resistance: The emergence of new agonistic relations between business and civil society. Journal of business ethics, 115, 741–754.
  • Chan, A. and Siu, K., 2010. Analyzing exploitation: The mechanisms underpinning low wages and excessive overtime in Chinese export factories. Critical Asian studies, 42 (2), 167–190.
  • Clapp, J., 1998. The privatization of global environmental governance: ISO 14000 and the developing world. Global Governance, 4 (3), 295–316.
  • Clarke, T. and Boersma, M., 2017. The governance of global value chains: unresolved human rights, environmental and ethical dilemmas in the apple supply chain. Journal of business ethics, 143, 111–131.
  • Clean Clothes Campaign, 2014. Report: Living wage in Asia [online]. Available from: https://cleanclothes.org/resources/publications/asia-wage-report (Accessed 16 June 2020).
  • Clean Clothes Campaign, 2019. Tailored wages 2019: The state of pay in the global garment industry [online]. Available from: https://archive.cleanclothes.org/livingwage/tailoredwages/tailored-wages-2019-summary (Accessed 22 January 2021).
  • Cutler, C., Haufler, V., and Porter, T., 1999. Private authority and international affairs. Albany, NY: SUNY Press.
  • Dauvergne, P., and LeBaron, G., 2014. Protest Inc.: the corporatization of activism. Cambridge: Polity.
  • De Neve, G., 2009. Power, inequality and corporate social responsibility: the politics of ethical compliance in the South Indian garment industry. Economic and political weekly, 44 (22), 44–71.
  • DePillis, L. 2013. H&M says it will pay factory workers a ‘fair living wage’. It doesn’t say what that means [online]. Washington Post, 26 Nov. Available from: https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/wonk/wp/2013/11/26/hm-says-it-will-pay-factory-workers-a-fair-living-wage-it-doesnt-say-what-that-means/ (Accessed 14 July 2020).
  • Distelhorst, G. and Locke, R.M., 2018. Does compliance pay? Social standards and firm-level trade. American journal of political science, 62 (3), 695–711.
  • Egels-Zandén, N., 2017. The role of SMEs in global production networks: a Swedish SME’s payment of living wages at its Indian supplier. Business & society, 56 (1), 92–129.
  • Egels-Zandén, N. and Linholm, H., 2015. Do codes of conduct improve worker rights in supply chains? A study of fair wear foundation. Journal of cleaner production, 107, 31–40.
  • Egels-Zandén, N. and Merk, J., 2014. Private regulation and trade union rights: why codes of conduct have limited impact on trade union rights. Journal of Business Ethics, 123, 461–473.
  • Esbenshade, J., 2004. Monitoring sweatshops: workers, consumers and the global apparel industry. Philadelphia: Temple University Press.
  • Esbenshade, J., 2012. A review of private regulation: codes and monitoring in the apparel industry. Sociology compass, 6 (7), 541–556.
  • Evans, A., 2017. Patriarchal unions = weaker unions? industrial relations in the Asian garment industry. Third world quarterly, 38 (7), 1619–1638.
  • Fransen, L., 2012. Multi-stakeholder governance and voluntary programme interaction: legitimation politics in the institutional design of corporate social responsibility. Socio-economic review, 10 (1), 163–192.
  • Fridell, G., 2007. Fair trade coffee: The prospects and pitfalls of market-driven social justice. Toronto: University of Toronto Press.
  • Gamu, J. and Dauvergne, P., 2018. The slow violence of corporate social responsibility: the case of mining in Peru. Third world quarterly, 39 (5), 959–975.
  • Gifford, B., Kestler, A., and Anand, S., 2010. Building local legitimacy into corporate social responsibility: gold mining firms in developing nations. Journal of world business, 45 (3), 304–311.
  • Glasmeier, A.K. 2004. ‘About the Living Wage Calculator’, Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Available from: https://livingwage.mit.edu/pages/about (Accessed 13 January 2021).
  • Glinski, C., 2017. The Ruggie framework, business human rights self-regulation and tort law: increasing standards through mutual impact and learning. Nordic journal of human rights, 35 (1), 15–34.
  • Graafland, J. and Smid, H., 2019. Decoupling among CSR policies, programs, and impacts: an empirical study. Business & society, 58 (2), 231–267.
  • Hanlon, G. and Fleming, P., 2009. Updating the critical perspective on corporate social responsibility. Sociology compass, 3 (6), 937–948.
  • Hearson, M. 2009. Cashing in: Giant retailers, purchasing practices, and working conditions in the garment industry. Amsterdam: Clean Clothes Campaign. Available from: https://digitalcommons.ilr.cornell.edu/globaldocs/434/ (Accessed 15 June 2020).
  • Henson, S. and Humphrey, J., 2010. Understanding the complexities of private standards in global agri-food chains as they impact developing countries. Journal of development studies, 46 (9), 1628–1646.
  • Ibanez, M. and Blackman, A., 2016. Is eco-certification a win–win for developing country agriculture? Organic coffee certification in Colombia. World development, 82, 14–27.
  • ILO. 1919. Constitution, Preamble. Available from: https://www.ilo.org/dyn/normlex/en/f?p=NORMLEXPUB:55:0::NO::P55_TYPE,P55_LANG,P55_DOCUMENT,P55_NODE:KEY,en,ILOC,/Document (Accessed 13 January 2021).
  • ILO. 1970a. Minimum wage fixing convention No. 131. Available from: https://www.ilo.org/dyn/normlex/de/f?p=1000:12100:0::NO::P12100_INSTRUMENT_ID,P12100_LANG_CODE:312276,en:NO (Accessed 13 January 2021).
  • ILO. 1970b. Minimum wage fixing recommendation No. 135. Available from: https://www.ilo.org/dyn/normlex/en/f?p=1000:12100:::NO:12100:P12100_INSTRUMENT_ID:312473 (Accessed 13 January 2021).
  • International Labour Organisation. 2019. ILO100: Ten ways the International Labour Organization has transformed the global garment industry. Available from: https://betterwork.org/blog/2019/01/22/ilo100-ten-ways-the-ilo-has-transformed-the-global-garment-industry/ (Accessed 14 April 2020).
  • Judd, J. and Kuruvilla, S. 2020. Why apparel brands’ efforts to police their supply chains aren’t working. The Conversation, 30 April. Available from: https://theconversation.com/why-apparel-brands-efforts-to-police-their-supply-chains-arent-working-136821 (Accessed 15 July 2020).
  • Jung, H.-J. and Kim, D., 2016. Good neighbours but bad employers: Two faces of corporate social responsibility programs. Journal of business ethics, 138, 295–310.
  • Khan, F.R. and Lund-Thomsen, P., 2011. CSR as imperialism: towards a phenomenological approach to CSR in the developing world. Journal of change management, 11 (1), 73–90.
  • Klassen, R.D. and Vereecke, A., 2012. Social issues in supply chains: capabilities link responsibility, risk (opportunity), and performance. International journal of production economics, 140 (1), 103–115.
  • LeBaron, G., 2020. Combatting modern slavery: why labour governance is failing and what we can do about tt. Cambridge: Polity.
  • LeBaron, G. 2021. Wages: An overlooked dimension of business and human rights in global supply chains. Business and Human Rights Journal, first view. Available from: https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1017/bhj.2020.32 (Accessed 17 March 2021).
  • LeBaron, G. and Gore, E., 2019. Gender and forced labour: understanding the links in global cocoa supply chains. The journal of development studies, 56 (6), 1095–1117.
  • LeBaron, G. and Rühmkorf, A., 2017. Steering CSR through home state regulation: a comparison of the impact of the UK bribery Act and modern slavery Act on global supply chain governance. Global policy, 8, 15–28.
  • LeBaron, G., Lister, J., and Dauvergne, P., 2017. Governing global supply chain sustainability through the ethical audit regime. Globalizations, 14 (6), 958–975.
  • LeBaron, G., et al., 2018. Confronting root causes: forced labour in global supply chains. Sheffield: Beyond Trafficking & Slavery and SPERI. Available from: https://cdn-prod.opendemocracy.net/media/documents/Confronting_Root_Causes_Forced_Labour_In_Global_Supply_Chains.pdf (Accessed 14 July 2020).
  • Locke, R.M., Amengual, M., and Mangla, A., 2009. Virtue out of necessity? compliance, commitment, and the improvement of labor conditions in global supply chains. Politics and Society, 37 (3), 319–351.
  • Luce, S., 2017. Living wages: a US perspective. Employee relations, 30 (6), 863–874.
  • Lund-Thomsen, P. 2013. Assessing the effects of corporate social responsibility standards in global value chains: Reflections on the ‘dark side’ of impact assessment. CBS Centre for Corporate Social Responsibility, Working paper no. 2. Available from: https://research.cbs.dk/en/publications/assessing-the-effects-of-corporate-social-responsibility-standard (Accessed 13 January 2021).
  • Lund-Thomsen, P., 2020. Corporate social responsibility: a supplier-centred perspective. EPA: Economy and space, 52 (8), 1700–1709.
  • Lund-Thomsen, P., et al., 2012. Labour in global value chains: work conditions in football manufacturing in China, India and Pakistan. Development and Change, 43 (6), 1211–1237.
  • Marshall, S., 2019. Living wage: regulatory solutions to informal and precarious work in global supply chains. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  • Marshall, D., et al., 2019. Piggy in the middle: How direct customer power affects first-tier suppliers’ adoption of socially responsible procurement practices and performance. Journal of business ethics, 154 (4), 1081–1102.
  • Mayer, F., Phillips, N., and Posthuma, A., 2016. The political economy of governance in a ‘global value chain world’. New Political Economy, 22 (2), 129–133.
  • Merk, J., 2011a. Cross-border wage struggles in the global garment industry: The campaign for an Asia floor wage. In: A. Bieler and I. Lindberg, ed. Global restructuring, labour and the challenges for transnational solidarity. London: Routledge, 116–130.
  • Merk, J., 2011b. Production beyond the horizon of consumption: spatial fixes and anti-sweatshop Struggles in the global athletic footwear industry. Global society, 25 (1), 73–95.
  • Mezzadri, A., 2017. The sweatshop regime: labouring bodies, exploitation and garments made in India. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
  • Miller, D. and Williams, P., 2009. What price a living wage? implementation issues in the quest for decent wages in the global apparel sector. Global social policy, 9 (1), 99–125.
  • OECD. 2011. Guidelines for multinational enterprises. OECD Publishing. Available from: https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1787/9789264115415-en (Accessed 13 January 2021).
  • O’Rourke, D., 2006. Multi-stakeholder regulation: privatizing or socializing global labor standards? World development, 34 (5), 899–918.
  • Parker, J., et al., 2016. The living wage: concepts, contexts and future concerns. Labour & industry: a journal of the social and economic relations of work, 26 (1), 1–7.
  • Phillips, N., 2011. Informality, global production networks and the dynamics of ‘adverse incorporation’. Global networks, 11 (3), 380–397.
  • Phillips, N., 2013. Unfree labour and adverse incorporation in the global economy: comparative perspectives on Brazil and India. Economy and society, 42 (2), 171–196.
  • PVH. 2020. PVH Corporation Statement, 10 May 2020 [online]. Available from: https://www.business-humanrights.org/sites/default/files/documents/PVH%20Corp.%20Statement_Ethiopia_Final.pdf (Accessed 12 June 2020).
  • Raworth, K. and Kidder, T., 2009. Mimicking ‘lean’ in global value chains: it’s the workers who get leaned on. In: J. bair, ed. Frontiers of commodity chain research. Redwood City: Stanford University Press.
  • Remi Edwards, Hunt, Tom and LeBaron, Genevieve., 2019. Corporate commitments to living wages in the garment industry. Sheffield: SPERI. Available at: http://speri.dept.shef.ac.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Corporate-Commitments-to-Living-Wages-in-the-Garment-Industry-SPERI-report.pdf
  • Riisgaard, L., Lund-Thomsen, P., and Coe, N.M., 2020. Multi-stakeholder initiatives in global production networks: naturalising specific understandings of sustainability through the better cotton initiative. Global networks, 20 (2), 211–236.
  • Saxena, S.B., 2019. Labour, global supply chains, and the garment industry in South Asia: Bangladesh after rana plaza. London: Routledge.
  • Scherer, A.G. and Palazzo, G., 2007. Toward a political conception of corporate social responsibility: business and society seen from a habermasian perspective. The academy of management review, 32 (4), 1096–1120.
  • Schoeneborn, D., Morsing, M., and Crane, A., 2020. Formative perspective on the relation between CSR communication and CSR practices: pathways for walking, talking and t(w)alking. Business and society, 59 (1), 5–33.
  • Selwyn, B., Misiolek, B., and Ijarja, A., 2019. Making a global poverty chain: export footwear production and gendered labour exploitation in eastern and central Europe. Review of international political economy, 27 (2), 377–403.
  • Short, J.L., Toffel, M.W., and Hugill, A.R., 2020. Improving working conditions in global supply chains: The role of institutional environments and monitoring program design. ILR review, XX (X), 1–40.
  • Soederberg, S., 2007. Taming corporations or buttressing market-led development? A critical assessment of the global compact. Globalizations, 4 (4), 500–513.
  • Taylor, M., 2011. Race you to the bottom … and back again? The uneven development of labour codes of conduct. New political economy, 16 (4), 445–462.
  • United Nations. 1948. Universal Declaration of Human Rights. Available from: https://www.ohchr.org/EN/UDHR/Documents/UDHR_Translations/eng.pdf (Accessed 13 January 2021).
  • Vogel, D., 2005. The market for virtue: the potential and limits of corporate social responsibility. Washington, DC: The Brookings Institution.
  • Weil, D. and Mallo, C., 2007. Regulating labour standards via supply chains: combining public/private interventions to improve workplace compliance. British journal of international relations, 45 (4), 791–814.