431
Views
2
CrossRef citations to date
0
Altmetric
Original Articles

TEST-retest reliability of kinetic variables measured on campus board in sport climbers

, ORCID Icon, ORCID Icon, ORCID Icon, ORCID Icon & ORCID Icon
Pages 649-662 | Received 03 May 2017, Accepted 12 Feb 2018, Published online: 16 May 2018

References

  • Amca, A. M., & Smith, N. (2017). Biomechanics of the single-handed dynamic moves on campus board and effect of rung distance. Paper presented at the meeting of the International Society of Biomechanics in Sports, Cologne, Germany.
  • Amca, A. M., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S., & Berton, E. (2012). The effect of chalk on the finger-holds friction coefficient in rock climbing. Sports Biomechanics, 11, 473–479. doi:10.1080/14763141.2012.724700
  • Balaghi, A., Sarshin, A., & Bahari, M. (2014). Inventing the hand grip strength tester for climbing and determining is correlation coefficient with men sport climbers ability. European Journal of Experimental Biology, 4, 333–336.
  • Baláš, J., Pecha, O., Martin, A. J., & Cochrane, D. (2012). Hand-arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. European Journal of Sport Science, 12, 16–25. doi:10.1080/17461391.2010.546431
  • Baláš, J., Michailov, M., Giles, D., Kodejška, J., Panáčková, M., & Fryer, S. (2016). Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 16, 764–772. doi:10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198
  • Bertuzzi, R. C. D. M., Franchini, E., Kokubun, E., & Kiss, M. A. P. D. M. (2007). Energy system contributions in indoor rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 101, 293–300. doi:10.1007/s00421-007-0501-0
  • Bobbert, M. F., Mackay, M., Schinkelshoek, D., Huijing, P. A., & van Ingen Schenau, G. J. (1986). Biomechanical analysis of drop and countermovement jumps. European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology, 54, 566–573. doi:10.1007/BF00943342
  • Bourdin, C., Teasdale, N., Nougier, V., Bard, C., & Fleury, M. (1999). Postural constraints modify the organization of grasping movements. Human Movement Science, 18, 87–102. doi:10.1016/S0167-9457(98)00036-0
  • Cavagna, G. A., & Citterio, G. (1974). Effect of stretching on the elastic characteristics and the contractile component of frog striated muscle. The Journal of Physiology, 239, 1–14. doi:10.1113/jphysiol.1974.sp010552
  • Cordova, M. L., & Armstrong, C. W. (1996). Reliability of ground reaction forces during a vertical jump: Implications for functional strength assessment. Journal of Athletic Training, 31, 342–345.
  • Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Priestley, S., Fryer, S., Marshall, H., … Ellis, G. (2011). Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 51, 417–425.
  • Draper, N., Giles, D., Schöffl, V., Fuss, F. K., Watts, P., Wolf, P., … Abreu, E. (2016). Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International rock climbing research association position statement. Sports Technology, 8, 88–94. doi:10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081
  • Fuss, F. K., & Niegl, G. (2008). Instrumented climbing holds and performance analysis in sport climbing. Sports Technology, 1, 301–313. doi:10.1002/jst.71
  • Fuss, F. K., & Niegl, G. (2010). Biomechanics of the two-handed dyno technique for sport climbing. Sports Engineering, 13, 19–30. doi:10.1007/s12283-010-0052-1
  • Giles, L. V., Rhodes, E. C., & Taunton, J. E. (2006). The physiology of rock climbing. Sports Medicine, 36, 529–545. doi:10.2165/00007256-200636060-00006
  • Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A., & Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 14, 301–309. doi:10.1080/02640419608727715
  • Hopkins, W. G. (2000). Measures of reliability in sports medicine and science. Sports Medicine, 30, 1–15. doi:10.2165/00007256-200030010-00001
  • Kibele, A. (1998). Possibilities and limitations in the biomechanical analysis of countermovement jumps: A methodological study. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 14, 105–117. doi:10.1123/jab.14.1.105
  • Komi, P. V. (2000). Stretch-shortening cycle: A powerful model to study normal and fatigued muscle. Journal of Biomechanics, 33, 1197–1206. doi:10.1016/S0021-9290(00)00064-6
  • Laffaye, G., Collin, J. M., Levernier, G., & Padulo, J. (2014). Upper-limb power test in rock-climbing. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 35, 670–675. doi:10.1055/s-0033-1358473
  • Macleod, D., Sutherland, D. L., Buntin, L., Whitaker, A., Aitchison, T., Watt, I., … Grant, S. (2007). Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Sports Sciences, 25, 1433–1443. doi:10.1080/02640410600944550
  • Markovic, G., Dizdar, D., Jukic, I., & Cardinale, M. (2004). Reliability and factorial validity of squat and countermovement jump tests. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 18, 551–555. doi:10.1519/1533-4287
  • Mermier, C., Janot, J., Parker, D., & Swan, J. (2000). Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 34, 359–365. doi:10.1136/bjsm.34.5.359
  • Portney, L. G., & Watkins, M. P. (2000). Foundations of clinical research: Applications to practice (Vol. 2, pp. 594–595). Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice Hall.
  • Schmidtbleicher, D. (1992). Training for power events. In P. V. Komi (Ed.), Strength and power in sport (pp. 381–395). Oxford: Blackwell Scientific.
  • Schöffl, V., Schneider, H., & Küpper, T. (2011). Coracoid impingement syndrome due to intensive rock climbing training. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 22, 126–129. doi:10.1016/j.wem.2010.12.005
  • Shrout, P. E., & Fleiss, J. L. (1979). Intraclass correlations: Uses in assessing rater reliability. Psychological Bulletin, 86, 420–428.10.1037/0033-2909.86.2.420
  • Street, G., McMillan, S., Board, W., Rasmussen, M., & Heneghan, J. M. (2001). Sources of error in determining countermovement jump height with the impulse method. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 17, 43–54. doi:10.1123/jab.17.1.43
  • Vigouroux, L., Ferry, M., Colloud, F., Paclet, F., Cahouet, V., & Quaine, F. (2008). Is the principle of minimization of secondary moments validated during various fingertip force production conditions? Human Movement Science, 27, 396–407. doi:10.1016/j.humov.2008.02.019
  • Watts, P. B. (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 91, 361–372. doi:10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7
  • Watts, P. B., & Jensen, R. L. (2003). Reliability of peak forces during a finger curl motion common in rock climbing. Measurement in Physical Education and Exercise Science, 7, 263–267. doi:10.1207/S15327841MPEE0704_4
  • Weir, J. P. (2005). Quantifying test-retest reliability using the intraclass correlation coefficient and the SEM. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 19, 231–240. doi:10.1519/15184.1
  • Winter, E. M., Abt, G., Brookes, F. B., Challis, J. H., Fowler, N. E., Knudson, D. V., … Yeadon, M. R. (2016). Misuse of ‘power’ and other mechanical terms in sport and exercise science research. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 30, 292–300. doi:10.1519/jsc.0000000000001101

Reprints and Corporate Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

To request a reprint or corporate permissions for this article, please click on the relevant link below:

Academic Permissions

Please note: Selecting permissions does not provide access to the full text of the article, please see our help page How do I view content?

Obtain permissions instantly via Rightslink by clicking on the button below:

If you are unable to obtain permissions via Rightslink, please complete and submit this Permissions form. For more information, please visit our Permissions help page.