The effect of technique and ability on the VO₂–heart rate relationship in rock climbing

References

• Alessio , H. M. , Hagerman , A. E. , Fulkerson , B. K. , Ambrose , J. , Rice , R. E. and Wiley , R. L. 2000 . Generation of reactive oxygen species after exhaustive aerobic and isometric exercise . Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise , 32 ( 9 ) : 1576 – 1581 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Billat , V. , Palleja , P. , Charlaix , T. , Rizzardo , P. and Janel , N. 1995 . Energy specificity of rock climbing and aerobic capacity in competitive sport rock climbers . Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness , 35 ( 1 ) : 20 – 24 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Booth , J. , Marino , F. , Hill , C. and Gwinn , T. 1999 . Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 33 ( 1 ) : 14 – 18 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bystrom , S. E. G. and Kilbom , A. 1990 . Physiological response in the forearm during and after isometric intermittent handgrip . European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology , 60 ( 6 ) : 457 – 466 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Cornett , J. A. , Herr , M. D. , Gray , K. S. , Smith , M. B. , Yang , Q. X. and Sinoway , L. I. 2000 . Ischemic exercise and the muscle metaboreflex . Journal of Applied Physiology , 89 ( 4 ) : 1432 – 1436 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Cox , R. H. , Martens , M. P. and Russell , W. D. 2003 . Measuring anxiety in athletics: The revised competitive state anxiety inventory-2 . Journal of Sport & Exercise Psychology , 25 ( 4 ) : 519 – 533 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• de Geus , B. , Villanueva OíDriscoll , S. and Meeusen , R. 2006 . Influence of climbing style on physiological responses during indoor rock climbing on routes with the same difficulty . European Journal of Applied Physiology , 98 ( 5 ) : 489 – 496 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper , N. , Brent , S. , Hodgson , C. and Blackwell , G. 2009 . Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing . International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport , 9 ( 1 ) : 67 – 89 .
   Google Scholar
• Draper, N., & Hodgson, C. (2008). Adventure sport. Chichester, UK: John Wiley & Sons
   Google Scholar
• Draper , N. , Jones , G. A. , Fryer , S. , Hodgson , C. and Blackwell , G. 2008 . Effect of an on-sight lead on the physiological and psychological responses to rock climbing . Journal of Sports Science and Medicine , 7 ( 4 ) : 492 – 498 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper , N. , Jones , G. A. , Fryer , S. , Hodgson , C. I. and Blackwell , G. 2010 . Physiological and psychological responses to lead and top rope climbing for intermediate rock climbers . European Journal of Sport Science , 10 ( 1 ) : 13 – 20 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Ferguson , R. A. and Brown , M. D. 1997 . Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects . European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology , 76 ( 2 ) : 174 – 180 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Draper, N., Blackwell, G., & Hillier, S. (in press). A psychophysiological comparison of on-sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, doi: 10.1111/j1600-0838.2011.01432x
   Google Scholar
• Fuss , F. K. and Niegl , G. 2008 . Instrumented climbing holds and performance analysis in sport climbing . Sports Technology , 1 ( 6 ) : 301 – 313 .
   Google Scholar
• Giles , L. , Rhodes , E. and Taunton , J. E. 2006 . The physiology of rock climbing . Sports Medicine , 36 ( 6 ) : 529 – 545 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Goddard , D. and Neumann , U. 1994 . Performance rock climbing , Mechanicsburg, PA : Stackpole Books .
   Google Scholar
• Gollnick , P. D. , Karlsson , J. , Piehl , K. and Saltin , B. 1974 . Selective glycogen depletion in skeletal muscle fibres of man following sustained contractions . The Journal of Physiology , 241 ( 1 ) : 59 – 67 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Gollnick , P. D. , Piehl , K. and Saltin , B. 1974 . Selective glycogen depletion pattern in human muscle fibres after exercise of varying intensity and at varying pedalling rates . The Journal of Physiology , 241 ( 1 ) : 45 – 57 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Grove , J. R. and Prapavessis , H. 1992 . Preliminary evidence for the reliability and validity of an abbreviated Profile of Mood States . International Journal of Sport Psychology , 23 ( 2 ) : 93 – 109 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Lee , R. , Beard , J. D. and Aldoori , M. I. 1993 . “ Blood flow to the limbs ” . In Cardiac output and regional flow in health and disease , Edited by: Iskandrian , A. S. and Salmasi , A.-M. 505 – 522 . Dordrecht : Kluwer Academic .
   Google Scholar
• McNair, D. M., Lorr, M., & Droppleman, L. F. (1981). Profile of Mood States (POMS), San Diego, EDITS Educational and Industrial Testing Service
   Google Scholar
• Mermier , C. M. , Janot , J. M. , Parker , D. L. and Swan , J. G. 2000 . Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 34 ( 5 ) : 359 – 366 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Mermier , C. M. , Robergs , R. A. , McMinn , S. M. and Heyward , V. H. 1997 . Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 31 ( 3 ) : 224 – 228 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• O'Leary , D. S. 1993 . Autonomic mechanisms of muscle metaboreflex control of heart rate . Journal of Applied Physiology , 74 ( 4 ) : 1748 – 1754 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Osada , T. , Katsumura , T. , Murase , N. , Sako , T. , Higuchi , H. , Kime , R. and … Shimomitsu , T. 2003 . Post-exercise hyperemia after ischemic and non-ischemic isometric handgrip exercise . Journal of Physiological Anthropology and Applied Human Science , 22 ( 6 ) : 299 – 309 .
   PubMedGoogle Scholar
• Saltin, B., & Gollnick, P. D. (2011). Skeletal muscle adaptability: Significance for metabolism and performance. In Comprehensive Physiology, doi: 10.1002/cphy.cp100119. Chichester, UK: John Wiley & Sons
   Google Scholar
• Sheel , A. W. 2004 . Physiology of sport rock climbing . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 38 ( 3 ) : 355
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Sheel , W. 2003 . Physiological responses to indoor rock-climbing and their relationship to maximal cycle ergometry . Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise , 35 ( 7 ) : 1225 – 1231 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts , P. B. 2004 . Physiology of difficult rock climbing . European Journal of Applied Physiology , 91 ( 4 ) : 361 – 372 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts , P. B. and Drobish , K. I. P. M. 1998 . Physiological responses to simulated rock climbing at different angles . Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise , 30 ( 7 ) : 1118 – 1122 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• West , W. , Hicks , A. , Clements , L. and Dowling , J. 1995 . The relationship between voluntary electromyogram, endurance time and intensity of effort in isometric handgrip exercise . European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology , 71 ( 4 ) : 301 – 305 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Williams , E. S. , Taggart , P. and Carruthers , M. 1978 . Rock climbing: Observations on heart rate and plasma catecholamine concentrations and the influence of oxprenolol . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 12 ( 3 ) : 125 – 128 .
   PubMedGoogle Scholar
• Wright , D. M. , Royle , T. J. and Marshall , T. 2001 . Indoor rock climbing: Who gets injured? . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 35 ( 3 ) : 181 – 185 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar