Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers

References

• Baláš, J., PanáČková, M., Kodejška, J., Cochrane, D. J., & Martin, A. J. (2014). The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 14, 345–354.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Baláš, J., Pecha, O., Martin, A. J., & Cochrane, D. (2012). Hand-arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. European Journal of Sport Science, 12, 16–25. 10.1080/17461391.2010.546431 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Baláš, J., Strejcová, B., Malý, T., Malá, L., & Martin, A. J. (2009). Changes in upper body strength and body composition after 8 weeks indoor climbing in youth. Isokinetics and Exercise Science, 17, 173–179.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Brent, S., Hodgson, C., & Blackwell, G. (2009). Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 9, 67–89.
   Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Canalejo, J. C., Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Winter, D., Ellis, G., … North, C. (2011). Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing. Isokinetics and Exercise Science, 19, 273–280. doi:10.3233/ies-2011-0424.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Fryer, S., Priestley, S., Winter, D., & Ellis, G. (2011). Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 29, 851–858. doi:10.1080/02640414.2011.565362.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Priestley, S., Fryer, S., Marshall, H., … Ellis, G. (2011). Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 51, 417–425.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper, N., & Hodgson, C. (2008). Adventure sport physiology. Chichester: Wiley-Blackwell.
   Google Scholar
• España-Romero, V., Ortega Porcel, F., Artero, E., Jiménez-Pavón, D., Gutiérrez Sainz, Á., Castillo Garzón, M., & Ruiz, J. (2009). Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 107, 517–525. doi:10.1007/s00421-009-1155-x.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Fuss, F. K., & Niegl, G. (2003). Finger forces, -injuries, and -force distribution in sport climbers. In A Subic, P Trivailo, & F Alam (Eds.), Sports dynamics, discovery and application (pp. 197–202). Melbourne: RMIT University Press.
   Google Scholar
• Fuss, F. K., & Niegl, G. (2012). Finger load distribution in different types of climbing grips. Sports Technology, 5, 151–155. doi:10.1080/19346182.2012.755540.
   Google Scholar
• Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A., & Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 14, 301–309. doi:10.1080/02640419608727715.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Köstermeyer, G., & Weineck, J. (1995). Notwendigkeit des einfingrigen Trainings der Fingerbengemuskulatur zur Leistungssteigerung im Sportkletern Vergleich der Kraftentwicklung bei ein-und vier fingriger Maximal Kontraktion. Deutsche Zeitschrift für Sportmedizin, 46, 356–362.
   Google Scholar
• Mermier, C. M., Janot, J. M., Parker, D. L., & Swan, J. G. (2000). Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 34, 359–365. doi:10.1136/bjsm.34.5.359.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Michailov, M. L., Mladenov, L. V., & Schöffl, V. R. (2009). Anthropometric and strength characteristics of world-class boulderers. Medicina Sportiva, 13, 231–238. doi:10.2478/v10036-009-0036-z.
   Google Scholar
• Nachbauer, W., Fetz, F., & Burtscher, M. (1987). Testprofil zur Erfassung spezieller sportmotorischer Eigenschaften der Felskletterer [A testprofile for gathering specific sport-motor characteristics of rock climbers]. Sportwissenschaft, 17, 423–438.
   Google Scholar
• Schöffl, I., Oppelt, K., Juengert, J., Schweizer, A., Neuhuber, W., & Schoeffl, V. (2009). The influence of the crimp and slope grip position on the finger pulley system. Journal of Biomechanics, 42, 2183–2187. doi:10.1016/j.jbiomech.2009.04.049.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schöffl, V. R., Einwag, F., Strecker, W., & Schoffl, I. (2006). Strength measurement and clinical outcome after pulley ruptures in climbers. Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise, 38, 637–643. doi:10.1249/01.ms.0000210199.87328.6a.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schöffl, V. R., Morrison, A., Hefti, U., Schwarz, U., & Kuepper, T. (2010). Official standards of the UIAA Medical Commission 2010. The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, Postfach, Switzerland.
   Google Scholar
• Schweizer, A. (2001). Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers. Journal of Biomechanics, 34, 217–223. doi:10.1016/s0021-9290(00)00184-6.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schweizer, A., & Furrer, M. (2007). Correlation of forearm strength and sport climbing performance. Isokinetics and Exercise Science, 15, 211–216.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schweizer, A., & Hudek, R. (2011). Kinetics of crimp and slope grip in rock climbing. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 27, 116–121.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Shrout, P. E., & Fleiss, J. L. (1979). Intraclass correlations – uses in assessing rater reliability. Psychological Bulletin, 86, 420–428.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Vanderburgh, P. M., Mahar, M. T., & Chou, C. H. (1995). Allometric scaling of grip strength by body mass in college-age men and women. Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 66, 80–84. doi:10.1080/02701367.1995.10607658.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Vigouroux, L., Quaine, F., Labarre-Vila, A., & Moutet, F. (2006). Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. Journal of Biomechanics, 39, 2583–2592. doi:10.1016/j.jbiomech.2005.08.027.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Wall, C. B., Starek, J. E., Fleck, S. J., & Byrnes, W. C. (2004). Prediction of indoor climbing performance in women rock climbers. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 18, 77–83.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts, P. B. (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 91, 361–372. doi:10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts, P. B., Jensen, R. L., Gannon, E., Kobeinia, R., Maynard, J., Sansom, J., & Forearm, E. M. G. (2008). during rock climbing differs from EMG during handgrip dynamometry. International Journal of Exercise Science, 1, 4–13.
   Google Scholar