The North West Pattern Book Survey

References

• For a review of the formation of the C.P.A., see: P. Lesley Cook, ‘The Calico Printing Industry’, Effects of Mergers: Six Studies (London: George Allen & Unwin, 1958 ), Ch. 11, pp. 131–211.
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• For a contemporary view from a Managing Director of the Calico Printers’ Association, see: Clive R. Hargreaves, Some comments on the calico printing industry in its relationship to the cotton and rayon textile industries with special reference to the report by the Monopolies Commission on the process of calico printing. Published for the author (Manchester, n.d. [c.1954 ]).
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• See: Caroline Miles, Lancashire Textiles: a case study of industrial change (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1968 ), chapter 4, ‘The 1959 Cotton Industry Act’, pp. 46–65.
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• A. W. Arbuckle, K. Farrar, J. S. Ward, and J. S. Schofield. A Centenary History of the Dyeing and Finishing Industry: Manchester Region (Bradford: Society of Dyers and Colourists, 1988), p. 17. This pamphlet and others in the series provide concise reviews of the textile coloration industry in the twentieth century.
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• Heavy layers of atmospheric dust, and rotting leather bindings are a major disincentive to many who might otherwise be attracted to this area of design research.
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• Royal Commission on Historical Manuscripts. Records of British Business and Industry 1760–1914: Textiles and leather (London: HMSO, 1990), preface.
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• Sarah Levitt, ‘Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume: the costume museum and the business historian’, in Business Archives, No. 52 (November 1986), 20.
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• Louanne Collins and Moira Stevenson, Silk: sarcenets, satins, steels & stripes-150 years of Macclesfield textile designs, with an introduction by Mary Schoeser (Macclesfield: Macclesfield Museums Trust, [1994 ]).
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• Since this article was drafted, the Strines Printing Co. has closed. Their contracts and archives are in the hands of Standfast of Lancaster.
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• According to Bunt and Rose, the Bannister Hall collection was purchased by Stead’s in 1893. Cyril G. E. Bunt and Ernest A. Rose, Two Centuries of English Chintz 1750–1950, as exemplified by the productions of Stead, McAlpin &Co. (Leigh-on-Sea: F. Lewis Publishers, 1957), p. 27.
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• In June 2001, G.P. & J. Baker was acquired by Kravet Lee-Jofa Mulberry (KLJM Ltd.), the European branch of Kravet Inc. Present plans are to maintain the archive at a base in High Wycombe.
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• Sanderson Archive: No. 1 Experiment Book, July-December 1822; Catterall Book, 1823–34; Thomas Comstive’s Book, 1829–36. The Archive has recently moved to the new company headquarters at Denham.
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• Prior detailed research of collections at Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, Salford Museum & Art Gallery, Bury Art Gallery & Museum, and Manchester Metropolitan University Textiles/Fashion Department was held by the author. Some knowledge of Manchester Museum of Science & Industry, Whitworth Art Gallery, Stockport Museum, and Manchester Metropolitan University Library collections was available.
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• Mary Schoeser, A survey of Macclesfield sample books funded by a grant from the Pilgrim Trust, (Unpublished report held at Macclesfield Silk Museum, 24 March 1993).
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• Collins and Stevenson, op. cit.
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• Bankfield Museum, Bolton Museum, The Colour Museum, Bury Art Gallery, Lancashire Record Office, Manchester Central Library, Manchester Metropolitan University Library, Manchester Museum of Science & Industry, Platt Hall Gallery of English Costume, Quarry Bank Mill, Saddleworth Museum, and Salford Museum are included. However, as an example, the John Mellor (Birkacre printworks) books of Bolton and Lancashire Record Office are not listed in the Guide.
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• Another imperfect but nevertheless useful source that should be mentioned is the chapter on ‘Archival collections’, in Terry Wyke and Nigel Rudyard, Cotton: a select bibliography on cotton in North West England (Manchester: North Western Regional Library System, 1997). More recently published contributions are: David Hunt and Geoffrey Timmins, The Textile Industry 1750–1850: a guide to Lancashire records (Preston: University of Central Lancashire, 2000), 31pp; Judith Baldry, Manchester Archives Guide to Business Collections (Manchester Public Library, 2000 [unpublished]), 99 pp.
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• The books of Tie Silks, originally from Krefeld, were acquired by James Arnold & Co., Macclesfield. See: L Collins and M. Stevenson, Silk, Sarcenets, Satins, Steels & Stripes: 150 years of Macclesfield textile designs (Macclesfield Museums Trust, [c. 1994 ]), p. 78.
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• David Greysmith, ‘Patterns, piracy and protection in the textile printing industry 1787–1850 ’, in Textile History, 14 (1983), 165–94.
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• Victoria and Albert Museum, London. T. 12–1956: Notebook of Thomas Comstive, Catterall printworks, 1824. T.8–1978: Notebook from Foxhill Bank printworks, 1824. E.379–1964 and E.380–1964: Proof prints from copperplate handkerchiefs, C1850–1880, Langley printworks.
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• N. M. Rothschild & Sons Limited: ‘The Cotton Book of Nathan Rothschild’. The book records 68 invoices for goods purchased in Scotland ( June–July 1801) as well as 216 commissions of textiles for export. Professor Stanley Chapman kindly brought this book to my attention. The contact for access to the book is The Rothschild Archive, London.
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• The Rothschild Archive, London: I/218/45. Manchester Stock Price & Printing Book 1802/1807. The identifiable printers with annotated samples in the ‘Cotton Book’ are: Blacklock & Appleby, Cheetham & Smith, John Collier, Foster & Barge, Samuel Gratrix, George Lomas & Son, John Partington, and Wood & Jackson. The initials BHB may either stand for Bradshaw & Hipwell or Hodson & Berwick.
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• Archives Départementales de la Seine-Maritime. Fonds Koechlin 60J-I.
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• Linda Welters and Martin Bide, ‘AATCC’s little black book: printing delaines in the 1850s’, in Journal of the AATCC, 27 (1995), 17–23.
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• M.I.S.E., Mulhouse, France. Nos. 1496, 1497, 1498. No. 117/51, Geschenk Daniel Dollfus-Ausset.
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• See the report of George Wallis in, Nathan Rosenberg (ed.), The American System of Manufactures: The report on the machinery of the United States 1855, and the special reports of George Wallis and Joseph Whitworth 1854 (Edinburgh: The University Press, 1969).
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• Cooper Hewitt. 1987–46–1.
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• Copper Hewitt. 1950–99–1.
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• Antonio Ratti Textile Center. John Smith notebook: 156.41 Sm6. Also in the collection are three pattern books containing roller prints: 156.415 Sa4 Q2–Q4; the prints in Q4 date from the late 1820s to early 1830s.
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• Winterthur. 65 × 698, 65 × 699, 65 × 700, 77 × 110. Also in the collection is a Manchester pattern book c. 1850 –55 containing roller printed calicoes (Winterthur. 93 × 069).
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• Bibliothèque Forney, Paris. Réserve 5294. •
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• Bibliothèque Forney. Collection Mey. Uncatalogued.
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