REFERENCES
- This subject was analysed in detail- including an attempt at the technical identification of the fabrics – in my article published in Szazadok, 1970, NO.2. W. Endrei: Kozepkori angol textilimportunk gyapjuszovetei (The Woollen Cloths in Hungary’s Medieval English Textile Imports).
- Cited by Braudel, Mediterranee (Paris, 1966), I, 194.
- A. Friis, Alderman Cockayne’s Project and the Cloth Trade (Copenhagen – London, 1927 ), p. 34.
- From the Statues of a company of exporter merchants called the Muscovy Company (1555), , ... clothes and karsies shall be all dressed, and for the most part dyed within this Realme’.
- This was passed as a resolution by the Privy Council in 1616. Friis, op. cit., p. 174.
- Real cloth, for example the Narrow Tauntons and Bridgewaters, also were one yard broad. Statues of the Realm, Vol. IV (I), Edward VI c. 6, 1551–2.
- Friis, op. cit., p. 439.
- Ferenc Szakaly was so kind to put at my disposal the manuscript of the publication his ‘Merchant Book’. The article at press will be published in Agrartorteneti Szemle.
- OL, Basic museum material R 224. 1607 (Novedeknapl6szam 1889), I.
- These papers were published by S. Goldenberg and S. Belu, Registrul Productiei si somertului cu postav de la Brasov din 1576–1582 (Asta musei Napocensis VI, Cluj, 1969), pp. 565–76.
- The merchants of Breslau imported Silesian sorts of cloth, and as we shall see, the kersey with destination Hungary got there until the fifteen-year war almost solely through the intermediation of Nuremberg.
- R. Doehaerd, Etudes Anversoises, Vol. II (Paris, 1962).
- G. D. Ramsay, The Cloth Trade at London Mid-Sixteenth Century. From a lecture held at Prato on
- April 1970. Manuscript. At that time the Privy Council restricted their activity to the exportation of 9,500 pieces of kersey and 160 pieces of cloth per annum. )
- His letter of 9 August 1569, is quoted by F. Braudel in La Mediterranee, T. 1. (Paris, 1966), p. 559.
- Calender of the Manuscripts of the Right Honourable Lord Sackville of Knole, Sevenoaks, Kent, Vol. II. Letters relating to Lionel Cranfield’s business overseas 1597 to 1612.
- Kalbrunner, Lazarus Henckel von Donnersmarck. Vierteljahrszeitschrift fur Sozial- und Wirtschaftsgeschichte, 1931, p. 146.
- It appears from the Nadasdi accounts (Vol. II, pp. 142–57) that twenty-one pieces of kersey, nineteen pieces of Nuremberg cloth, and two pieces of inferior cloth were issued between 20 April 1550 and 19 July 1550. Seventeen per cent of the kersey importers figuring in the 1563–4 customs records of Vac did not import other sorts of fabrics. Twenty-five per cent imported it together with Nuremberg cloth, the rest purchased in addition to it Moravian and Silesian cloth probably in Vienna or Nagyszombat. But Nuremberg became leading from the 70Sof the century.
- For example Rawstorm in his letter of 5 August 1608, , ... bad kersies will not vent at any rate in regard there be made great store of coarse kersies in Sletie (Silesia)’.
- Nationalbibliothek~ Wien. The manuscript Handschriftensammlung, No. 12634, supplies a number of interesting data on the history of the Nuremberg crafts (guilds did not exist there). The remark ‘Sein 1569 in die Stadt kommen’ appears at the entry Tuchbereiter and TuchHirber.
- A. Kunze, Zur Geschichte des Nurnberger Textil- und Fiirbegewerbes vom Spiitmittelalter bis zum Beginn der Neuzeit. Beitriige zur Wirtschaftsgeschichte Nurnbergs, Vol. II (Nuremberg 1967), 680–2.
- Friis, op. cit., pp. 51–4.
- Deutschlands Zolltarife des Mittelalters und der Neuzeit, II (Wiesbaden, 1961), 169–70.
- DSP Eliz. XV. 67. (1560), quoted by H. Heaton, The Yorkshire Woollen and Worsted Industries, (Oxford, 1920 ), p. 150.
- For example, Fairchild’s Dictionary of Textiles (New York, 1959), defines Northern kersey as follows: ‘Medieval English woollen fabrics made at Halifax’. This town was the centre of Yorkshire kersey manufacturing as lately as the eighteenth century.
- Heaton, op. cit., p. 79.
- Ibid., pp. 94–5. From the Halifax Act of 1555, , ... nor ys hable to keepe of Horse ... carrye the same to theire houses some ii iij, v and vj myles of upon theire Headdes and Backe.
- See Lister’s notes in the Halifax Archives (SH 6/WO/3).iI am indebted to Mr Betterage for drawing my attention to them.
- Lister, Early History of Woollen Trade in the Parish of Halifax. Commercial Yearbook of the Halifax Chamber of Commerce (London, 1914 ), pp. 60–3.
- Ibid., p. 146, ‘to serve the poor of Europe’.
- Maczak, Sukennictwo wielko polskie XIV-XVII. wieku (Warszava, 1955 ), p. 277.
- Heaton, op. cit., p. 137.
- Ibid., p. 138.
- Ibid., p. 139.
- Ibid., pp. 239–40.
- Continuation of the letter ‘complaints of Hungary’, cited above (Stade, 30 June 1603).
- Lipson, Economic History, p. 328. These conditions did not change at all. The aforesaid Holroyd was the Aulnager’s deputy in Halifax at the beginning of the eighteenth century and ‘clothiers came or sent ... for 100 or 200 or more seals, which they then fixed on their own cloths without Holroyd ever having seen the wares’; F. Atkinson, Some Aspects of the Eighteenth Century Woollen and Worsted Trade in Halifax (Halifax, 1956 ), p. xiv.
- As we know from the diary of Samuel Pepys, the dresses of the sailors of the naval force were made of kersey.
- The Cambridge Economic History of Europe, Vol. IV, p. 420 and Fig.
- (Kersey, naval stores price curve). The drop in prices was somewhat more intense in reality because the price of silver was also falling – even if very slowly – during the period.
- F. W. Carter, ‘The Commerce of the Dubrovnik Republic 1500–1700’. Economic History Review (1971 ), p.381.
- F. J. Fisher, ‘Commercial Trends and Policy in Sixteenth Century England’. Economic History Review, X (1940; Ibid., pp. 95–117; London’s Export Trade in the Early Seventeenth Century, second series, III, 2 (1950), 151–61.
- In his letter to the Dutch importer Godfrey Gortson, ‘it is the market that is bad, not the kersies’ (15 July 1599).
- For example, , ... if you deal in kersies ... to buy none but good ones and not to give any extraordinary price for them ... ‘ (Stade, 16 July 1606).
- …, I cannot perceive anyone that is willing to deal for ... your kersies not even against any wares. For they say our folks have so cloyed the markets of Nuremburg that they cannot sell any ...’ (Stade, II June 1607).
- In the continuation of the cited letter of 5 August 1608, , ... made great store of coarse kersies in Sletia and to be afforded good cheap. Deal no more with any northern cloth ...’.
- Goldenberg-Behr, op. cit., and A. Maczak, op. cit., p. 50.
- Braudel, op. cit., I, p. 398.
- Inscription of an oil-painting at the Hall of the Merchant Adventurers of York.
- For example William Busfield states (1637), ‘that the greatest number of broad list kersies about twenty-five years ago and upwards, then made were vented at Stoade in Germany of which very few have been there vented these late years, by reason of the baseness and ill-making there of’. He then mentions, that in Silesia kersey is imitated.
- Letter of 7 May 1603.
- Letter of 30 June 1603.
- H. Zins, Anglia a Baltik w drugiej Polowie XVI wieku (Wroc1aw, 1967 ), p. 184.
- Ibid., p. 194.
- Maczak, op. cit., p. 277.
- Fisher quotes contemporary reports. For example they wrote from Surat (1614), ‘English cloth will not sell, it was only bought at first by great men to cover their elephants ... for garments they use none in these parts’. Op. cit., p. 157.
- According to a source quoted by Heaton, , ... not only in Holland, but also in Germany ... Brandenburg and Silesia and diverse places in Poland and Prussia ... cloth can be afforded cheaper than any such like that can be carried out of England’, pp. 191–3.
- Heaton, op. cit., gives a long list of the prohibitions.
- Heaton, op. cit., p. 183.
- Ibid., pp. 186–8.
- Ibid., p. 189.
- Ibid., pp. 195–6.