Fashion and Consumption of Painted and Printed Calicoes in the Mediterranean during the later Seventeenth Century: The Case of Chintz Quilts and Banyans in Marseilles

References

• See, for example, the interesting issue of Histoire Urbaine coordinated by Natacha Coquery: ‘Villes, consommation, exotisme dans l’Europe atlantique, XVe–XVIIIe siècle’, Histoire Urbaine, xxx, no. 1 (2011).
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• Painted and printed calicoes reached Europe during the sixteenth century and the quantity of imports increased dramatically during the eighteenth century; see G. Riello, Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2013), pp. 112–13 and fig. 5.3. My thanks to the author for making several extracts available prior to publication.
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• For example, in August 1679, the Armenian manufacturer Dominique Ellia promised ‘to teach [his partner Hugues Grand] his secret for painting cotton fabrics as they are painted in the Levant without his having to become master’, see O. Raveux, ‘L’Orient et l’aurore de l’industrialisation occidentale: une lecture à travers la trajectoire de Dominique Ellia, indienneur constantinopolitain à Marseille (1669–1683)’, in C. Maitte, P. Minard and M. de Oliveira eds, La Pluralité des Mondes Industriels (XVIIe–XIXe siècle): Faire de l’Histoire avec Gérard Gayot (Rennes: Presses Universitaires de Rennes, 2012), pp. 99–104.
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• Ibid.
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• For example, the list of ships leaving Marseilles for the coasts of Spain and Italy (I 1, Archives de la Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Marseille, Marseilles) shows that the Saint-Joseph left for Naples with ‘a case of chintz quilts’ and ‘three cases of calicoes and banyans’ in January and July 1680, the Sainte-Anne sailed for Genoa with ‘a bale of banyans’ in September 1683, the Notre-Dame de Mont Carmel set sail for Cadiz with ‘6 bales of chintz quilts’ in January 1680 and the Saint-Antoine left for Valencia with ‘chintz quilts’ in January 1683.
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• On 5 October 1691, for example, Grégoire de Constant loaded nineteen large and two small Levantine chintz quilts onto the Notre-Dame du Rosaire sailing to Genoa. C 123, 1691, Archives de la Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie de Marseilles, Marseilles).
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