Welsh Costume: The Survival of Tradition or National Icon?

REFERENCES

• Vosper's most famous work, Salem, using the same model, now owned by the Lady Lever Art Gallery, Port Sunlight, was formerly given away as a print with bars of Sunlight soap.
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• For more information on the national identity issue in Wales, see Prys Morgan & David Thomas, Wales: The Shaping of a Nation, David & Charles, 1984; Eric Hobsbawm & Terence Ranger (eds), The Invention of Tradition, Cambridge University Press, 1983; Emyr Humphreys, The Taliesin Tradition: A Quest for the Welsh Identity, London: Black Raven Press, 1983; Meic Stephens (ed.), The Oxford Companion to the Literature of Wales, Oxford University Press, 1986.
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• J. Lewis, 'Passing judgements — Welsh dress and the English tourist', Folk Life, 30, 1995, 29–47.
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• George Lord Lyttelton, A Gentleman's Tour through Monmouthshire and Wales in the Months of June and July 1774, London: T. Evans, 1781, p. 76f.
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• A number of Hollar's illustrations are published in Valerie Cumming, A Visual History of Costume: The Seventeenth Century, London: Batsford, 1984.
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• George Walker, The Costume of Yorkshire, 1814.
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• Catherine Hutton Beale, Reminiscences of a Gentlewoman of the Last Century: Letters of Catherine Hutton, Birmingham: Cornish Brothers, 1891, p. 52.
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• Catherine Hutton Beale, ibid., p. 125.
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• Llangollen, oil painting by J. C. Ibbetson, 1796 (NMG Cardiff; Art no. NMWA 504).
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• Illustrated in C. Stevens, 'Welsh peasant dress — workwear or national costume?', Textile History, 33:1, 2002, 69; and F. G. Payne, 'Welsh peasant costume', Folk Life, 2, 1964, 48–49.
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• George Delamotte’s collection of sketches can be seen in the on-line catalogue on the website of the National Library of Wales, www.11gc.org.uk/drych/drych_so53.htm.
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• Dame Venodotia alias Modryb Gwen, a cartoon map of Wales in the form of an old woman, barefoot, in Welsh costume, c, 1845–50. Museum of Welsh Life accession no. 49.499 (illustrated in J. Lewis, above).
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• Augusta Hall, Lady Llanover, wife of Benjamin Hall, MP; papers detailing her life, her interest in the triple harp, Welsh dress and also her wider contacts within intellectual circles in Britain and Europe can be found on the National Library of Wales website, published following a study day held in 2002: http://www.11gc.org.uk/gwyb/Cyfeillion/StevensC_Welsh_Costume.pdf; see also M. Stephens, ibid., pp. 304–05.
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• Augusta Hall, On the Advantages Resulting from the Preservation of the Welsh Language and National Costumes of Wales, Cardiff; 1836, p. 10. The prize-winning essay at the Gwent and Dyfed eisteddfod, 1834.
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• Ibid., p. so.
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• The Cymreigyddion was a literary society founded by Lady Llanover to promote the Welsh language, music, and poetry, and held cultural meetings or eisteddfodau at Abergavenny and Cardiff from the 1830s.
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• Maxwell Fraser, 'Benjamin and Augusta Hall 1831-36', National Library of Wales Journal, XII, 1961–62, 219.
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• Maxwell Fraser, 'Benjamin Hall, MP for Marylebone 1837-1839', ibid., p. 316. Lady Greenly's letter, dated 1837, from which Fraser quotes, is in private hands.
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• The Cambrian Journal, 1854, p. 56.
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• MWL accession no. F81.87.
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• MWL accession no. 53.48.7–17.
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• MWL accession no. 53.48.1–6.
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• Newman, John & Co., engravers and print publishers, London: 48, Watling Street 1848–59; Rock & Co. Rock, William Frederick, stationer and print publisher, London: 8, Queen Street 1833–38; s s, Walbrook 1838–95. Trading as: William and Henry Rock 1833–38; as Rock and Co. 1838–95.
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• F. G. Payne, 'Welsh peasant costume', Folk Life, 2, 1964, 56–57.
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• Marie Trevelyan, Glimpses of Welsh Life and Character, London: Hogg, 1893, p. 163.
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• Mary Curtis, ibid., p. 4of.
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• Wirt Sykes, Rambles and Studies in old South Wales, London, 1881, p. 51.
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• For a fuller discussion of the traditional element in occupational dress, see C. Stevens, 'Welsh peasant dress — workwear or national costume?', Textile History, 33: 1, 2002, 63–78.
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• F. G. Payne, 'Welsh peasant costume', Folk Life, 2, 1964, 57.
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