Making a market for male dairy calves: alternative and mainstream relationality

ABSTRACT

The article uses actor network theory and the field of market studies to take a processual and relational approach to the alternative/mainstream food duality. Questions about how food systems or products make claim to be of the alternative or mainstream, and to what consequence, underpin the study. Analysis traces the making and shaping of two market versions for male dairy calves, a by-product of the dairy industry, often treated as ‘waste’ in the UK. Analysis focuses on the assemblage of actors, the breaking of matters of fact and shaping and communication of concerns, and at actions. Contrary to many approaches to the alternative, focus is paid to overlap between systems, knowledge and actors and simultaneous development of two products. From this, the ethicality of the mainstream, the continued duality and its consequences are discussed. Beyond seeing mainstream/alternative as co-constituted constructs, the two are symbiotic, mutually supportive and implicated in the circuit of culinary capital.

KEYWORDS:

• Agencing
• concerned markets
• alternative food
• retailers
• celebrity chefs
• actor network theory

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the three reviewers for their very thoughtful comments that have undoubtedly enhanced the quality of this article and the special edition editors for their guidance and assistance.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.

Notes

1. In 2008, European Union legislation required that the age of slaughter of the animal be evident at all stages in the supply chain and transparent to consumers. ‘V’ and ‘Z’ classifications were introduced to differentiate meat slaughtered under 8 months from that slaughtered at 8–12 months, respectively. The appropriate linguistic terminology for consumer labelling was left to national governments, and in the UK, V class meat became ‘veal’ and Z class became ‘beef’ – however, abrogation could be given (and was given) for ‘rose veal’ (but not rosέ veal since this had a legal status elsewhere in the EU) to be used on the label alongside the more prominent ‘beef’ when animals were slaughtered at 8–12 months. Throughout all the documentation, it is stressed that this European legislation had lesser relevance to the UK given the very low consumption of young meat compared to other European markets – and the legislation gained no explicit coverage in the trade and farming press indicating either lack of controversy or silencing of voice. Further information can be found at http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukia/2008/271/pdfs/ukia_20080271_en.pdf. However, EU research conducted in 2015 in markets with high consumption of young animals shows little understanding amongst consumers of the 2008 labelling framework and a continued usage of terms based on custom (http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/evaluation/market-and-income-reports/2015/eu-beef-labelling-rules/fullrep_en.pdf).

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Gillian C. Hopkinson

Gillian Hopkinson is a senior lecturer in marketing at Lancaster University. Her research interests fall within the area of marketing channels, market systems and food. Specifically she is interested power amongst multiple players and change in food systems. Her published work includes contributions in Industrial Marketing Management, International Journal of Management Reviews, Marketing Theory and Journal of Marketing Management.