The “Locavore” Chef in Alberta: A Situated Social Practice Analysis

Abstract

A sub-culture of “locavore” chefs is playing a critical but under-examined role in addressing concerns about the conventional, industrialized food system by re-localizing the sourcing, processing, and preparation of food. The values that underlie why certain chefs decide to work in this niche market, their strategies to overcome the situational challenges of sourcing locally produced food, and the ways they develop the knowledge and skills needed to prepare and incorporate these ingredients into appealing menus all point to the unique position that these chefs occupy in the local food movement. This paper presents insights from a study that utilized in-depth interviews to investigate the culinary practices of twenty-three local food-promoting chefs in Alberta, Canada. Using a social practice theory framework, these chefs’ culinary practices were examined based on what material conditions they encountered, how they employed particular skills and competencies and why they decided to become “locavores.” This study reveals that although issues of product accessibility, distribution, cost, and consistency of quality and volume are constraining factors, chefs’ ability to innovate and reskill, to foster supportive relationships with farmers and consumers, and their commitment to alternative values are keys to their success in niche “local” markets.

Key words:

• local food
• chef
• culinary practices
• Alberta
• social practice theory

Acknowledgements

The authors would like to thank the chefs across Alberta who graciously took time out of their busy schedules to participate in this project. In particular, they thank Chef Andrew Hewson for his assistance during the early stages of developing the project and for his input into the purposive sampling of chefs. They would also like to thank the reviewers of the manuscript for the time they dedicated to help strengthen this paper through their insightful comments and critiques.

Notes

1. There was a noticeable downturn in the province’s economic outlook in 2015 as oil prices plummeted. The interviews for this study were conducted prior to this recession and thus reflect a more positive outlook on local food in Alberta than might be expressed by chefs in the province today.