The global rise of “sustainable sushi” practices: Restaurant responses and challenges

Abstract

This article probes the pressing query of how sushi restaurants are navigating sustainability challenges and identifies the principal elements aiding their adaptive measures. By employing a multi-dimensional “sustainable sushi” framework, the study evaluates the self-disclosed food sustainability measures of leading sushi restaurants internationally. The analysis reveals pivotal drivers facilitating the adoption of sustainable practices within these entities. Further, this work bridges a significant scholarly gap, incorporating the concept of food sustainability into the wider discourse of food studies, and offering a nuanced understanding of adaptive strategies in the culinary sector.

Keywords:

• Food sustainability
• restaurant
• SDGs
• seafood
• sushi

Acknowledgments

The author is grateful to four anonymous reviewers and the Editor-in-Chief for their insightful comments and expertise, which were instrumental in shaping the final version of the article.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Notes

1 No available data shows the industry size at a global scale.

2 Note that “sushi” is a versatile culinary concept, encompassing a range of forms and ingredients beyond seafood, including vegetarian options with avocado or pickled vegetables, varieties with cooked or cured meats like chicken or beef, and others featuring egg.

3 Launched in 1996 by Unilever and World Wildlife Fund (WWF), the UK-based Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) aimed to address governance gaps through self-regulation, intending to complement rather than replace government legislation (Wijen and Chiroleu-Assouline 2019). Assessments for standard compliance are conducted by independent, accredited third parties against 28 performance indicators (from 2015 onwards) (Wijen and Chiroleu-Assouline 2019). A fishery must score at least 60 out of 100 for each indicator and an average of at least 80 for each core principle to gain certification, which is valid for five years and requires annual audits and a full reassessment for renewal (Wijen and Chiroleu-Assouline 2019). While the MSC is deemed rigorous by some, criticisms point to the absence of social criteria in its standards, addressing aspects like working conditions, minimum prices, and inclusion of vulnerable groups (Wijen and Chiroleu-Assouline 2019). Furthermore, it is imperative to recognize that securing MSC certification can be particularly challenging in the conventional fishing environments of developing countries, given the substantial costs involved. These costs can range from USD 20,000 for small, community-based fisheries to as much as USD 300,000 for larger entities, posing significant financial barriers to obtaining certification (Wijen and Chiroleu-Assouline 2019).

4 Established in 2010 by the WWF and the Sustainable Trade Initiative, the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) emerged from the Aquaculture Dialogues with the mission to influence global seafood markets through certification and an ASC logo labelling program, promoting standardized sustainability. However, similar to the MSC, several studies underscore that the significant costs and extensive funding necessary for certification often serve as substantial barriers for many in these regions (Karim and Almira 2023).

5 The Monterey Bay Aquarium, located in Monterey, California, is a public aquarium known for its marine conservation and education programs. Established in 1984, it houses a wide range of marine species and habitats (Monterey Bay Aquarium n.d.). The aquarium is particularly noted for its Seafood Watch program, which provides research-based recommendations on sustainable seafood (Monterey Bay Aquarium n.d.). The program aims to guide both consumers and businesses in making environmentally responsible seafood choices (Monterey Bay Aquarium n.d.).

6 The Asian Seafood Improvement Collaborative (ASIC) is an organization focused on enhancing sustainability and social responsibility in Asia’s seafood industry (ASIC n.d.). It provides frameworks for environmental, social, and traceability standards, aiming to create regionally appropriate solutions (ASIC n.d.).

7 James Beard Smart Catch is a sustainable seafood program that began in 2017, in partnership with the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program (James Beard Foundation n.d.). It aims to encourage restaurants to serve environmentally responsible seafood by providing them with training and recognition based on their seafood sourcing and menu offerings (James Beard Foundation n.d.). Benefits for recognized restaurants include access to sustainable seafood resources and networking opportunities (James Beard Foundation n.d.).

8 The Green Restaurant Association (GRA) is a non-profit organization in the United States that certifies and assists restaurants in implementing sustainable practices such as energy efficiency, waste reduction, and sustainable sourcing (GRA n.d.). Founded by Michael Oshman in 1990, it has certified numerous restaurants in the United States and is an authoritative figure in the restaurant industry’s sustainability efforts (GRA n.d.).

9 A B Corporation is a for-profit business that focuses on social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency (B Corporation n.d.-a). B Lab, a non-profit organization, certifies companies based on their impact on workers, customers, community, and environment (B Corporation n.d.-a). Certification requires companies to meet a minimum score of 80 out of 200 points and ongoing assessments (B Corporation n.d.-a). B Corps are required to consider all stakeholders in their decision-making, not just shareholders (B Corporation n.d.-a).

10 Pole-and-line caught tuna fisheries are deemed sustainable as this fishing method is selective, and serves to minimize bycatch and mitigate damage to ecosystems, thereby contributing to effective stock management. This sustainability approach is endorsed by several entities, including the International Pole & Line Foundation (IPNLF), the Forum Fisheries Agency, the WWF Greenpeace, various other NGOs, government fisheries agencies, and private companies (Gillet 2016). However, it is labor-intensive and yields lower economic returns compared to other methods, and it is dependent on favorable weather conditions, posing challenges in balancing ecological benefits with economic viability (Jaini and Hisham 2013).

11 The MSC Group Chain of Custody certification guarantees that seafood products from MSC-certified fisheries can be traced from the fishing vessel to the end consumer (MSC n.d.). The MSC seafood eco-label was created through a partnership between Unilever and WWF, independent of government-led processes used to manage fisheries (Cummins 2004). The Group CoC Certification allows companies to efficiently manage multiple certifications by ensuring their products are labeled correctly and traceable throughout the supply chain, reducing costs and administrative burdens (MSC n.d.).

12 The Green Apple Award was created in 1994 by the Green Organisation, a UK non-profit organization that promotes environmental conservation and sustainable practices (Green Apple Environment Award n.d.). The award recognizes sustainability efforts and eco-friendly practices in businesses, organizations, educational institutions, and governments (Green Apple Environment Award n.d.).

13 The Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA) presents an annual award to recognize individuals, companies, and organizations in the United Kingdom that have implemented innovative ideas, products, or services that significantly improve animal welfare (RSPCA 2023). The award is open to individuals, companies, and organizations, and the winner is selected by a panel of judges based on the innovation’s impact, originality, and feasibility, and is awarded a cash prize and recognition for their contribution to improving animal welfare (RSPCA 2023).

14 The Seafood Champion Awards acknowledge exceptional individuals and organizations for their leadership in promoting eco-friendly seafood through SeaWeb’s Seafood Choices program (Global Seafood Alliance n.d.).

15 The Marine Conservation Society (MCS) is a UK-based charity focused on marine protection, promoting sustainable fisheries, and combating overfishing and marine pollution (MCS n.d.-b). It aims to raise awareness about oceanic conditions and marine life, educates on conservation issues, advocates for policy reforms, and runs campaigns for marine ecosystem preservation and sustainable seafood consumption (MCS n.d.-b). The MCS also operates the Good Fish Guide to inform consumers about sustainable seafood options (MCS n.d.-b).

16 The People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) Proggy Award acknowledges progress and innovation in promoting animal welfare, rights, and compassion in various fields, including food, fashion, and cosmetics (PETA n.d.). Presented by PETA, the award recognizes companies, individuals, and products that advance animal-friendly practices and increase awareness of animal welfare issues (PETA n.d.).

17 Anima, a Denmark-based animal welfare organization, collaborates with businesses and organizations to increase awareness about animal welfare and promote ethical treatment of animals while striving to improve their living conditions (Anima n.d.-a).

18 The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) is a non-profit organization that establishes global standards for responsible forest management, aiming to tackle issues such as deforestation, habitat destruction, and social conflict (FSC n.d.). They certify forests and their products, and work with various entities to promote sustainable forest management and support sustainable forest-based industries (FSC n.d.).

19 The origins of sushi can be traced back to Southeast Asia, where people used to preserve fish in fermented rice (Ishige 1993). The concept was introduced to Japan around the 8th century, and over time, the dish evolved into the sushi we know today (Ishige 1993). The earliest form of sushi in Japan was called narezushi, which involved fermenting fish with rice for several months. Over time, this technique was refined, and new methods of preparing sushi were developed (Ishige 1993).

20 In the United States, the Magnuson-Stevens Fishery Conservation and Management Act established a system of councils and committees to provide scientific advice for fisheries management, while Canada has the federal Fisheries Act. In the United Kingdom, sustainable fisheries and seafood industries are subject to several statutory regulations, including the Marine and Coastal Access Act 2009 and the UK-wide Fisheries Act 2020. Denmark manages its fisheries under the Common Fisheries Policy of the European Union and is a member of the North East Atlantic Fisheries Commission, while Japan’s primary law governing fisheries management is the Fisheries Act. Penalties for non-compliance with these regulations can include monetary fines, license suspension, and imprisonment.

21 The documentary Blind Sushi, directed by Eric Heimbold, centers on the partnership between sustainable sushi chef Bun Lai and blind writer and traveler Ryan Knighton (Anderson n.d.). It explores themes of sustainability, culinary innovation, and perception, highlighting Lai’s commitment to ecological responsibility and innovative approaches within the food industry.

22 The Soil Association is a UK-based organization established in 1946, dedicated to advocating for sustainable, organic farming and environmental conservation (Soil Association n.d.). It provides certification for products meeting its organic production standards and promotes a holistic approach to agriculture, focusing on soil health, animal welfare, and sustainable food production (Soil Association n.d.). The organization is involved in advocacy, research, and educational initiatives to advance organic and sustainable practices (Soil Association n.d.).

23 Healthy Seas is a Netherlands-based initiative focused on marine conservation and environmental sustainability (Healthy Seas n.d.). It was established with the mission to remove waste, particularly fishing nets, from the oceans, aiming to reduce pollution and protect marine life.

Additional information

Funding

The author received no financial support for the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.