Re-Engineering Nubi: A Design-Driven Approach to Cultural Sustainability in Korean Fashion/Textile Practice

Abstract

This study delves into the realm of traditional Korean fashion/textile practice, known as traditional nubi and Tongyeong nubi (t/T nubi), and re-engineers it from a contemporary fashion perspective within the framework of cultural sustainability. Drawing upon the systemic design approach, the project employed specific activities to trace, decode, and reconfigure t/T nubi following the phases of exploration, reframing, creation, and catalyzation, aiming for innovative design in the contemporary fashion space. The paper emphasizes a holistic and iterative process, based on learning the practice of t/T nubi from artisans, understanding and recontextualizing the future envisaged for t/T nubi, and delivering creative outcomes. Utilizing the interpretative model of cultural sustainability through craft, the study also analyzed the outcomes, identifying impacts such as rethinking craft culture, decoding craft roots, and influencing craft culture. Striking a balance between safeguarding the practice and fostering creativity was challenging; however, the approach serves as a valuable reference for designers and/or artisans of traditional craft practice, bridging their knowledge and design thinking process with the enduring sustainability of this heritage craft. It also demonstrates the potential for designers to leverage traditional craft practices to drive innovation in design, production, and business.

Keywords:

• traditional fashion practice
• cultural sustainability
• systemic design approach
• design-driven practice
• nubi

Acknowledgments

The author would like to thank the nubi artisans who supported this study.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Notes

1 Traditional cultural expressions (TCEs) and indigenous cultural expressions (ICEs) are both relevant concepts in the context of cultural heritage and intellectual property. The main distinction between them lies in their origin and scope. TCEs encompass a diverse array of cultural elements, practices, knowledge, and expressions across various cultures and communities. On the other hand, ICEs specifically refer to the cultural heritage of indigenous peoples or communities. In the case of nubi, it can be viewed as both a TCE, considering its similarity to quilting, a form of expression found worldwide, and an ICE when contextualized within the traditional Korean expression.

2 Hanbok Expo is a domestic fair that exhibits and sells hanbok, the Korean traditional clothes, accessories, and other textile products inspired by Korean traditional craft and cultural practices.

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Jin Joo Ma

Jin Joo Ma is an assistant professor at Hongik University in Seoul, Republic of Korea. With a PhD in fashion practice-led cultural studies from the Royal College of Art, she specializes in teaching and conducting research in sustainability and cultural studies in fashion practices.

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