The growing trend of Islamic fashion: A bibliometric analysis

Abstract

This article’s objective is providing a critical evaluation and review of existing research on Islamic fashion using bibliometric analysis and systematic literature review. With this article, we list the leading contributors to this field, the important subtopics, and the geographical areas that the prior research concentrated on. Additionally, we suggest future lines of inquiry in the relevant field. We discovered the intriguing fact that there was a sharp rise in the quantity of articles published on this subject between 2016 and 2021. The Scopus database’s linked article title, keywords, and abstract of prior research publications are analyzed using techniques for data collection and data visualization. Finally, important research clusters are found via network analysis.

Keywords:

• Bibliometric
• Islamic marketing
• Islamic fashion
• research clusters

PUBLIC INTEREST STATEMENT

The goal of this study is to assess how advanced research on Islamic fashion is coming forward. The results indicate a rise in popularity for this literature over the past 20 years. The number of articles published on this topic significantly increased between 2016 and 2021, and there is a strong likelihood that future research will take more focused trajectories. Our research into Islamic fashion came from the Scopus database. We concentrate on gathering information from the Scopus database for reliable data and analytical tools, as well as publications of respectable research. To assess contributions to marketing research and to graphically explain the findings of bibliometric approaches, we used visualization software. The outcome is a detailed contextual analysis of Islamic fashion and Islamic consumer behavior in general.

1. Introduction

Currently, there are over two billion Muslims worldwide, who are scattered throughout 200 nations (Annur, 2022). Currently, Muslims make up about 25% of the world’s population (Pradana et al., 2022). Muslims make about 67% of the world’s population, primarily in Asia. With a proportion of 35.6%, South Asia has the highest distribution, followed by Southeast Asia, West Asia, Central Asia, and East Asia (Annur, 2022). Global purchasing trends in the food and lifestyle sectors can be used to identify the potential of Muslim customers (Rubiyanti et al., 2022). Muslims are obliged to follow halal lifestyle, which includes halal food, halal clothing, halal media, halal entertainment, halal cosmetics, halal medicine, and halal hospitals (Adinugraha et al., 2019).

In countries with Muslims as majority, the market size has a beneficial effect on business growth, especially in the Muslim design trend sector (Madiawati & Pradana, 2016). Numerous studies suggest that people’s decisions in clothing are influenced by their desire to project an image that is consistent with how others see them (Johnstone & Conroy, 2005; Newholm & Hopkinson, 2009). The ability to identify oneself and others based on what they are wearing is another indication (Roach-Higgins & Eicher, 1992; Savitri et al., 2021). Other studies look into the elements that influence the way people dress. Recent research has shown that aspects of fashion behavior, such as fashion consciousness and fashion leadership, are intricately tied to social and psychological elements, particularly in the setting of purchasing (Alexandra et al., 2015).

Despite being one of the most promising groups in an Islamic community, Muslim women’s dress choices have not received much attention (Saragih et al., 2022). According to a prior study, religion has a big impact on how Muslim women dress (Pramiyanti et al., 2022). The established rules of the Islamic religion on how Muslim women should dress also include this fashion standard (Madiawati & Pradana, 2016). According to O’Cass et al. (2013), religious ideals and level of belief have a regular influence on how people dress. Al-Mutawa (2013) found the opposite, contending that different Muslim groups may understand spiritual values differently when it comes to clothing (Gökariksel & Secor, 2010).

Because many Muslim women opt to dress in Muslim styles that are not required by religious rules, Riptiono and Setyawati (2019) contend that the Muslim clothing that is worn does not comply to the norms of appropriate Muslim apparel. They are only wearing Muslim clothing for fashion purposes (Pramiyanti et al., 2022). However, one way Muslims demonstrate their adherence to Islamic commandments is by donning attire with religious inspiration (Kartajaya et al., 2019). Numerous studies that have examined religion contend that it is an integral element of our culture and is linked to a variety of aspects of daily life, such as buying habits (Tabassi et al., 2012). Numerous research have been done on how religion affects behavior in a variety of scientific fields or fields of study, such as parental attachment, fashion or dress, food and drink, cosmetic use, social and political issues, and sexual control behavior (Dewi et al., 2022). A Muslim’s actual purchasing behaviors, especially their dress preferences, are influenced by their religion. Islam has a significant influence on behavior and encourages or forbids particular choices, either adversely if the option is haram (forbidden by Islam) or positively if it is halal (permitted by Islam; Rani, 2015). Religion establishes a lifestyle based on the level of dedication of their followers (Khraim, 2010).

According to this justification, Muslims must adopt an Islamic way of life from a young age. This paper tries to describe the phenomenon in the academic literature for the last several decades because it is crucial for the community to comprehend the practice of Islamic fashion. We hope to contribute to the field of Islamic marketing or Islamic consumer behavior by performing bibliometric research on the topic of Islamic fashion in the context of academic publications. Our research result may also be a valuable input for future research directions in Islamic consumer behavior topic in general.

2. Methodology

For this study, we gathered information regarding Islamic fashion from Scopus database. We focus on collecting data from Scopus database for credible research publication as well as trustworthy data and analytical tools (Amier & Pradana, 2022). We gathered articles from 2010 to 2022, a 12-year span, with a particular emphasis on articles that included the phrase “Islamic Fashion” in the article titles, abstracts, and keywords. There were 143 published articles found in the search results. Microsoft Excel was used to examine data in the form of published years, authors, and citations. While the authors, journals, and keywords utilized in the publishing of Islamic fashion domains were investigated using the VOSViewer tool.

Using VOSviewer, we generated and reviewed bibliometric maps. Researchers may create keyword maps based on shared event data as well as author or journal maps based on cocitation data with the aid of VOSviewer. You may thoroughly study bibliometric maps with the aid of this tool. Maps may be shown in a number of ways in VOSviewer, each highlighting a distinct feature of the map. The ability to zoom, browse, and search makes it simpler to analyze comprehensive maps. This technique has been useful in many recent research on Islamic marketing (Marlina, 2020; Sevriana et al., 2022).

It is helpful that VOSviewer can display maps with at least a large number of objects (e.g., at least 100 items). In order to offer maps for prior works that used the VOS mapping technique, VOSviewer employs this technique (Kuo et al., 2022). As a result, this software may display maps created using both multidimensional scaling approaches and maps created using the VOS mapping methodology.

3. Result and Discussion

The 143 papers on Islamic fashion that were published between 2010 and 2022 are reviewed in this study. The year 2021 had the most amount of study on Islamic clothing throughout this time, with 24 papers (17%). From 2010 to 2013, there were only 5 to 9 publications about Islamic fashion at the time of its inception. The number of publications on Islamic fashion increased between 2017 and 2021 (Table 1).

Table 1. Number of Paper

Year	Number of Paper
2010	6
2011	5
2012	8
2013	9
2014	13
2015	7
2016	9
2017	13
2018	13
2019	15
2020	16
2021	24
2022	5
Total	143

According to Figure 1, there is a trend for the number of papers to fluctuate each year. In 2013, there was an increase from 9 papers to 13, followed by a fall to 7 papers in 2014. Additionally, there was an increase from 2016 to 2021 and a fall to 5 papers in 2022, but our data is still tentative because 2022 was not finished until the time period of December 2022, so it is still feasible to add to and expand the collection of papers in this research until July 2022.

Figure 1. Number of Paper.

The articles that have been evaluated are also grouped by the authors who have written about Islamic dress over the preceding 12 years; Table 2 shows the top 11 author rankings.

Table 2. Top Authors

Author	Number of Paper
Andriani Kusumawati	2
Anna Mari Almila	2
Banu Gökariksel	2
Sayan-Cengiz	2
Gwen Bouvier	2
Haroon Idrees	2
Imene Ajala	2
Kütük-Kuriş	2
Purwaningwulan	2
Siti Hasnah Hassan	2
Thomas Roche	2

According to the Table 2, there are 11 authors that contributed to 2 paper titles that were published on the subject of Islamic clothing. Kusumawati, the top author, produced two papers, one of which is “The impact of religiosity on fashion involvement and patronage intention among generation XYZ of Indonesian Muslim consumers”. The other is “The impact of religiosity on fashion knowledge, consumer-perceived value and patronage intention”.

According to Table 3 top ranking of referenced article titles from the time of publication to the creation of this study, papers published in 2010 account for the majority of citations.

Table 3. Top Citations

Citation	Tittle	Author	Year	C/Y
84	Materializing piety: Gendered anxieties about faithful consumption in contemporary urban Indonesia	Carla Jones	2010	7.00
59	Islamic-ness in the life of a commodity: Veiling-fashion in Turkey	Banu Gökariksel & A. Secor	2010	4.92
54	Gender Diversity in Indonesia: Sexuality, Islam and queer selves	Sharyn Graham Davies	2010	4.50
37	The chronology of the Quran: A stylometric research program	Bechnam Sadeghi	2011	3.36
30	Working in the Islamic economy: Sharia-ization and the Malaysian workplace	Patricia Sloane-White	2011	2.73
28	Factors influencing fashion consciousness in hijab fashion consumption among hijabistas	Siti Hasnah Hassan & Harmimi Harun	2016	4.67
27	Religious beings in fashionable bodies: the online identity construction of hijabi social media personalities	Elif Kavakci & C.R. Kraeplin,	2017	5.40
27	Mimicry and modernity in the Middle East: Fashion invisibility and young women of the Arab Gulf	Sobh, R., Belk, R., & Gressel	2014	3.38
26	Effect of religiosity on luxury consumer behavior: the case of the Tunisian Muslim	Fawzi Dekhil, H. Boulebech & N. Bouslama	2017	5.20
24	The Impact of Fashion Involvement and Pro-Environmental Attitude on Sustainable Clothing Consumption: The Moderating Role of Islamic Religiosity	Ali Razzaq, N.Y. Ansari, Z. Razzaq, & H.M Awan,	2018	6.00
24	Spiritual attachment in Islam and Christianity: similarities and differences	Maureen Miner, B. Ghobary, M. Dowson, & M.T. Proctor	2014	3.00
22	The veil, desire, and the gaze: Turning the inside out	Banu Gökarıksel & A. Secor	2014	2.75
19	Exogamous weddings and fashion in a rising consumer culture: Kabyle minority dynamics of structure and agency	Nacima Ourahmoune & N. Özçağlar-Toulouse	2012	1.90

The most citation ratings are displayed in Table 3. The paper with the title “Materializing piety: Gendered anxieties about faithful consumption in contemporary urban Indonesia” written by Jones (2010) currently holds the top spot with 84 citations. Furthermore, a paper with 59 citations is a paper entitled “Islamic-ness in the life of a commodity: Veiling-fashion in Turkey” written by Gökariksel (2010). In third place with 54 citations namely a paper entitled “Gender Diversity in Indonesia: Sexuality, Islam and queer selves” written by Davies (2010), although this article does not specifically talks about Islamic fashion but about gender phenomena instead.

This section offers a graphic visual mapping of the publication of a paper with an Islamic fashion subject and will further examine the findings of the aforementioned meta-analysis. Figure 2 displays the outcomes of the network visualization of the co-word map publication of the articles’ subject related to Islamic clothing.

Figure 2. Bibliometric Keywords.

In this mapping, certain keywords that have been used often in articles about Islamic fashion over the last 12 years are shown together with their connections to other keywords in three clusters, notably:

• Islamic fashion, culture, religion, and principle make up the first cluster in blue.

• Islamic perspective, person, trend, impact, and attitude make up the second cluster in red.

• Islamic law, society, lifestyle, and education make up the third cluster in green.

The three clusters that were produced are shown by colored circles around the keywords (Willayat et al., 2022). The historical trend of words may be ascertained using this data. A number of keywords that are often used in the study’s target publication are revealed by the bibliometric analysis. The circle widens as new keywords are discovered. The concept of correlation shows how closely related different expressions are to one another. The aforementioned illustration effectively shows how Islamic clothing has a big influence on lots of different businesses. Linked to Islamic fashion are concepts like “culture,” “religion,” and “Islamic principle” in Cluster 1, which is represented by the color blue.

The issue of consumerism in Islamic culture has received more attention from the general public due to worries about how modernisation and the drive toward globalization are impacting Muslim shopping habits. Therefore, the conventional structure of religious culture has been significantly impacted by recent changes in time and location in civilizations (Aydin, 2013; Zaman et al., 2021). The color red represents the Islamic ideology, individual, movement, impact, and attitude in Cluster 2.

According to Riptiono and Setyawati (2019), Muslim women’s purchase intentions were not influenced by Islamic religiosity variables, but the Islamic religiosity variable may have an indirect impact via consumer attitude variables on the purchase intentions of female consumers for Muslim fashion trends. As a result, consumer views of Muslim fashion trends have a moderating effect on the relationship between the Islamic religiosity variable and female Muslim fashion trend purchase intention (Dewi et al., 2022). Cluster 3 in green contains the phrases Islamic law, society, lifestyle, and Islamic education. Of course, a person’s upbringing influences their religious views, but it’s important to keep in mind that as individuals get closer to puberty, they start to have more control over their social surroundings, which affect how they dress. Consequently, consumers create a sense of style that will be appreciated by others around them as a consequence of the social environment of the new generation being accepted, adapted, respected, and admired.

The keywords are divided into three groups, and each group is symbolized by a distinct circle color. The most current trend in keyword use may be ascertained using this data. A number of keywords that are often used in the study’s field are revealed by the bibliometric analysis. The circle widens as new keywords are discovered. The concept of correlation shows how closely related different expressions are to one another. The illustration above demonstrates how Islamic clothing has a big influence on a lot of different businesses. Linked to Islamic fashion are concepts like “culture,” “religion,” and “Islamic principle” in Cluster 1, which is represented by the color blue.

Muslims’ shifting buying behaviors, notably in countries with Islam as the biggest religion such as Malaysia, Indonesia, and several countries in the North Africa, Middle East, and South Asia, have sparked worries, which has raised awareness of the topic of consumption in religious culture due to modernism and the globalization movement. Therefore, recent changes in cultural time and location have had a profound impact on the traditional framework of religious culture (Aydin, 2013). The components of cluster 2—including the Islamic perspective, person, trend, influence, and attitude—are written in red. According to Riptiono and Setyawati (2019), Islamic religious traits have little influence on Muslim women’s inclinations to purchase Muslim fashion trends. The Islamic religiosity variable, however, may indirectly influence female customers’ purchase intentions for Muslim fashion trends via consumer attitude factors. As a result, consumer views of Muslim fashion trends have a moderating effect on the relationship between the Islamic religiosity variable and female Muslim fashion trend purchase intention.

Phrases like “Islamic law,” “Islamic culture,” “Islamic lifestyle,” and “Islamic education” are also underlined in the third green cluster. It should go without saying that a person’s religious views are shaped by the education they receive from their families, but it’s important to keep in mind that as people approach puberty, they begin to exert more control over their social contexts, and environments have an impact on how people dress. People now create a sense of style that will be appreciated by others around them as a consequence of the social environment of the new generation being accepted, adapted, respected, and admired. In terms of being especially influenced by environmental reference groups, consumption culture offers a culture where people desire, even pursue, acquire, and display goods and services that stand out with their non-utilitarian features, such as seeking status, pique interest, and seeking novelty in hijab (Dewi et al., 2022).

4. Conclusion and Limitation

This study’s objective is to evaluate the progress of Islamic fashion on a global scale. The findings show that from 2011 to 2014, this publication trend, which began in 2010, grew in popularity. We also found a significant increase in the number of papers published on this issue between 2016 and 2021, despite the fact that the papers published during this time period have not yet earned many citations.

According to bibliometric mapping, the development of Islamic fashion research can be divided into three groups. Four keywords are found in Cluster 1, five in Cluster 2, and four in Cluster 3. Academics are recommended to conduct additional scientific research on Islamic attire, especially using bibliometric results, such as popular keywords and choosing references based on authors, journals, and most-cited citations. Academics can also develop a deeper understanding of Islamic fashion literature by utilizing tools that generate more specialized or diverse bibliometric maps, such as those produced by Scopus. In order to study the most recent imagery and trends in Islamic fashion, as well as the problems the industry is facing and potential solutions, this research can be used to examine each halal industry standard in detail.

It can be inferred from the research’s results and the discussion that followed that, in addition to satisfying the requirements of Islamic religious principles, economic behavior, including the production and consumption of Muslim clothing, has developed into a culture for Muslim communities all over the world. Nearly all of Muslims’ interests are greatly influenced by their beliefs, thus their sentiments are a vast subject that may be studied in many industries, including retail and fashion.

Acknowledgements

This Publication is enabled through Postdoctoral Grant from Directorate for Resources, The Ministry of Education and Culture of The Republic of Indonesia. The authors also would like to thank Dr. Tim Karis and all team members of CERES - Ruhr-Universität Bochum.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Additional information

Funding

The authors received no direct funding for this research.

Notes on contributors

Mahir Pradana

Mahir Pradana is an Assistant Professor in the Postgraduate Department of Business Administration, Telkom University (Bandung, Indonesia). His research interests are tourism, entrepreneurship, innovation and marketing modelling. His works have been published in international journals such as Technology Analysis & Strategic Management, Journal of Islamic Marketing, Local Environment, Journal of Innovation and Knowledge, etc.

Hanifah Putri Elisa

Hanifah Putri Elisa is a student in the Postgraduate Department of Business Administration, Telkom University (Bandung, Indonesia).

Syarifuddin Syarifuddin

Syarifuddin is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Business Administration, Telkom University (Bandung, Indonesia). His research interests are leadership and human resource management.