Making Italian fashion global: Brand building and management at Gruppo Finanziario Tessile (1950s‒1990s)

References

• Abruzzese, A., and E. Golzio Aimone. FACIS SIDI CORI. Un’Analisi condotta sui fondi dell’Archivio Storico sulla Grafica e la Pubblicità dal 1954 al 1979 [FACIS SIDI CORI: Graphics and Advertising in the Historical Archive, 1954–1979]. Torino: Gruppo GFT, 1989.
   Google Scholar
• Barney, J. “Firm Resources and Sustained Competitive Advantage.” Journal of Management 17 (1991): 99–120.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Barney, J., and D. Clark. Resource-Based Theory: Creating and Sustaining Competitive Advantage. New York: Oxford University Press, 2007.
   Google Scholar
• Barney, J., and W. Hesterly. Strategic Management and Competitive Advantage: Concepts and Cases. New Jersey: Pearson, 2012.
   Google Scholar
• Blignaut, H. La. La scala di vetro, il romanzo della vita di Biki [The Glass Ladder, Biki’s Life Novel]. Milano: Rusconi, 1995.
   Google Scholar
• Boneschi, M. “Le sarte milanesi del 'miracolo' tra moda, industria e cultura [The Milanese Seamstresses at the Time of the ‘Economic Miracle’ between Fashion, Industry and Culture].” Annali di storia dell'impresa 18, no. 1 (2007): 75–103.
   Google Scholar
• Bourdieu, P. Distinction: A Social Critique of Judgement of Taste. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1979.
   Google Scholar
• Bowman, C., and N. Collier. “A Contingency Approach to Resource-Creation Processes.” International Journal of Management Reviews 8, no. 4 (2006): 191–211.10.1111/ijmr.2006.8.issue-4
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Breward, C. Fashion. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2003.
   Google Scholar
• Caccia, G., and S. Micheletto. Gruppo Finanziario Tessile. Inventario [Inventory]. Torino: Archivio di Stato, 2014.
   Google Scholar
• Carrarini, R. “La stampa di moda dall’unità ad oggi [Fashion Press Since the Unification Until Today].” In La Moda [Fashion], edited by C. Belfanti and F. Giusberti, 797–834. Turin: Einaudi, 2003.
   Google Scholar
• Casson, M. “Brands: Economic Ideology and Consumer Society.” In Adding Value: Brands and Marketing in Food and Drink, edited by G. Jones and N. Morgan, 41–58. London: Routledge, 1994.
   Google Scholar
• Conner, K. “A Historical Comparison of Resource-Based Theory and Five Schools of Thought within Industrial Organisation Economics: Do We Have a New Theory of the Firm?” Journal of Management 17 (1991): 121–154.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Cox, H., and S. Mowatt. “Vogue in Britain: Authenticity and the Creation of Competitive Advantage in the UK Magazine Industry.” Business History 54 (2012): 67–87.10.1080/00076791.2011.617209
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Da Silva Lopes, T. “The Growth and Survival of Multinationals in the Global Alcoholic Beverages Industry.” Enterprise and Society 4 (1993): 592–598.
   Google Scholar
• Da Silva Lopes, T., and M. Casson. “Brand Protection and the Globalization of the British Business.” Business History Review 86 (2012): 287–310.10.1017/S0007680512000414
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Da Silva Lopes, T., and P. Duguid, eds. Trademarks, Brands and Competitiveness. New York and London: Routledge, 2010.
   Google Scholar
• Da Silva Lopes, T., and P. Guimares. “Trademarks and British Dominance in Consumer Goods, 1876–1914.” Economic History Review 67 (2014): 793–817.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Dahlén, M. “Copy or Copyright Fashion? Swedish Design Protection Law in Historical and Comparative Perspective.” Business History 54 (2012): 88–107.10.1080/00076791.2011.617211
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Dierickx, I., and K. Cool. “Asset Stock Accumulation and Sustainability of Competitive Advantage.” Management Science 35 (1989): 1504–1511.10.1287/mnsc.35.12.1504
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Djelic, M. L., and A. Ainamo. “The Coevolution of New Organisational Forms in the Fashion Industry: A Historical and Comparative Study of France, Italy, and the United States.” Organisation Science (1999): 622–637. doi: 10.1287/orsc.10.5.622.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Duguid, P. “Developing the Brand: The Case of Alcohol, 1800-1880.” Enterprise and Society 4, no. 3 (2003): 405–441.
   Google Scholar
• Ente nazionale della moda. Congresso nazionale abbigliamento e autarchia: relazioni e riassunti di comunicazioni [National Congress Clothing and Autarchy: Reports and Summaries of Speeches]. Torino: Ente nazionale della moda, 1940.
   Google Scholar
• Fernie, J., C. Moore, A. Lawrie, and A. Hallsworth. “The Internationalisation of the High Fashion Brand: The Case of Central London.” Journal of Product and Brand Management (1997): 151–162. doi: 10.1108/09590551011085984.
   Google Scholar
• Florence Brachet Champsaur. “Madeleine Vionnet and Galeries Lafayette: The Unlikely Marriage of a Parisian Couture House and a French Department Store, 1922–40.” Business History 54 (2012): 48–66.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Giacomoni, S. The Italian Look Reflected. Milan: Mazzotta, 1984.
   Google Scholar
• Grant, R. M. “The Resource-Based Theory of Competitive Advantage: Implications for Strategy Formulation.” California Management Review 33 (1991): 114–135.10.2307/41166664
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Grant, R. M. “Prospering in Dynamically-Competitive Environments: Organisational Capability as Knowledge Creation.” Organisation Science 7 (1996): 375–387.10.1287/orsc.7.4.375
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Hall, R. “A Framework Linking Intangible Resources and Capabilities to Sustainable Competitive Advantage.” Strategic Management Journal 14 (1993): 607–619.10.1002/(ISSN)1097-0266
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Higgins, D., and T. Geoffrey. “Asset or Liability? Trade Marks in the Sheffield Cutlery and Tool Trades.” Business History 37 (1995): 1–27.10.1080/00076799500000088
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Howard, R. “The Designer Organisation. Italy’s GFT Goes Global.” Harvard Business Review September–October 69, no. 5 (1991): 28–44.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Ingram, F. C. “Giorgio Armani S.P.a.” In International Directory of Company Histories, edited by J. P. Pederson, Vol. 45, 180–183. Chicago, IL: St. James Press.
   Google Scholar
• ISTAT. Censimenti ed indagini per la ricostruzione nazionale eseguiti nel settembre 1944 [Censuses and Surveys for National Reconstruction, September 1944]. Roma: ISTAT, 1945.
   Google Scholar
• Jones, G., and N. Morgan, eds. Adding Value: Brands and Marketing in Food and Drink. London: Routledge, 1994.
   Google Scholar
• Lisiani, V. “Efficacia dei marchi [The Effectiveness of Brands].” L’Abito FACIS SIDI CORI 1, no. 2 (1963): 10–14.
   Google Scholar
• Locke, R. M. “Unity in Diversity: Strategy and Structure of the Italian Apparel Industry in the 1980s.” Paper presented at the Conference on “Ready Made Fashion; Research and problems in the History of Mass-Produced Clothing”, Milan, Italy, February 26-28, 1990.
   Google Scholar
• Locke, R. M., and C. Antonelli. “International Competitiveness, Technological Change and Organisational Innovation: Strategy and Structure of the Italian Apparel Industry in the 1980s.” In Managing the Globalisation of Business, edited by D. Lessard and C. Antonelli, 151–172. Naples: Editoriale Scientifica, 1990.
   Google Scholar
• Lupano, M., and A. Vaccari, eds. Una giornata moderna. Moda e stili nell’Italia fascista [A Modern Day. Fashion and Styles in Fascist Italy]. Bologna: Damiani Editore, 2009.
   Google Scholar
• Luzzatto-Fegiz, P. “Il consumo di prodotti tessili nelle famiglie italiane [Consumption of Textiles in the Italian Families].” In Il consumo di prodotti tessili nelle famiglie italiane, 1953–195. Indagine campionaria eseguita per incarico del Comitato nazionale della produttività (Gruppo di lavoro industria tessile) [Consumption of Textiles in the Italian Families, 1953–1956. Survey Carried Out by the National Committee of Productivity (Textile Industry Working Group)], Vol. 2, 150–168. Milano: Doxa, 1955.
   Google Scholar
• Macchion, L., R. Fornasiero, and A. Vinelli. “Supply Chain Configurations: A Model to Evaluate Performance in Customised Productions.” International Journal of Production Research 55, no. 5 (2017): 1386–1399.10.1080/00207543.2016.1221161
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McKendrick, N., J. Brewer, and J. H. Plumb. The Birth of a Consumer Society. The Commercialization of Eighteenth-century England. London: Europa Publications, 1982.
   Google Scholar
• Mendes, V., and A. de la Haye. 20th Century Fashion. London: Thames and Hudson, 1999.
   Google Scholar
• Mercer, John. “A Mark of Distinction: Branding and Trade Mark La in the UK from the 1860s.” Business History 52 (2010): 17–42.10.1080/00076790903281033
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Merlo, E. Moda italiana. Storia di una industria [Italian Fashion. The History of an Industry]. Venezia: Marsilio, 2003.
   Google Scholar
• Merlo, E. “Italian Fashion Business: Achievements and Challenges (1970s–2000s).” Business History 53, no. 3 (2011): 344–362.10.1080/00076791.2011.565512
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Merlo, E. “‘Size Revolution’: The Industrial Foundations of the Italian Clothing Business.” Business History 57, no. 6 (2015): 919–941. doi: 10.1080/00076791.2014.992336.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• OECD. Textile and Clothing Industries. Structural Problems and Policies in OECD Countries. Paris: OECD, 1983.
   Google Scholar
• Olivari Binaghi, M. T. “La moda: le tendenze [Fashion: Trends].” In Storia di Milano. Il Novecento [History of Milan. The Twentieth Century], edited by Istituto della Enciclopedia Italiana, 496–563. Roma: Istituto della Enciclopedia Italiana, 1996.
   Google Scholar
• Patsiaouras, G., and J. A. Fitchett. “The Evolution of Conspicuous Consumption.” Journal of Historical Research in Marketing 4, no. 1 (2012): 154–176. doi: 10.1108/17557501211195109.
   Google Scholar
• Paulicelli, E. Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt. Oxford – New York: Berg, 2004.10.2752/9780857854087
   Google Scholar
• Penrose, E. T. The Theory of the Growth of the Firm. New York: John Wiley, 1959.
   Google Scholar
• Peteraf, M. “The Cornerstones of Competitive Advantage: A Resource Based View.” Strategic Management Journal 14 (1993): 179–191.10.1002/(ISSN)1097-0266
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Potvin, J. Giorgio Armani: Empire of the Senses. Aldershot: Ashgate, 2012.
   Google Scholar
• Rivetti, F. “La struttura organizzativa del Gruppo Finanziario Tessile [The Organizational Structure of Gruppo Finanziario Tessile].” L’Abito FACIS SIDI CORI 2, no. 3 (1964): 3–4.
   Google Scholar
• Rosso, F. “Lo sviluppo della confezione maschile in serie in Italia [Development of the Production of Standardized Clothing for Men in Italy].” In Congresso nazionale abbigliamento e autarchia: relazioni e riassunti di comunicazioni [National Congress Clothing and Autarchy: Reports and Summaries of Speeches], edited by Ente nazionale della moda, 120–128. Torino: Ente Nazionale della Moda, 1940.
   Google Scholar
• Runyan, R. C., and P. Huddleston. “Getting Customers Downtown: The Role of Branding in Achieving Success for Central Business Districts.” Journal of Product & Brand Management 15, no. 1 (2006): 48–61.10.1108/10610420610650873
   Google Scholar
• Sáiz, P., and P. Fernández. “Catalonian Trademarks and the Development of Marketing Knowledge in Spain, 1850–1946.” Business History Review 82, no. 2 (2012): 239–260.10.1017/S0007680512000396
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Stielau, A. Competitive Strategy and Business Performance. A Case in the German Clothing Industry. Munich: GrinVerlag, 1999.
   Google Scholar
• Vergani, G., ed. Fashion Dictionary. Milan: Baldini Castoldi Dalai, 2006.
   Google Scholar
• Wernerfelt, B. “A Resource Based View of the Firm.” Strategic Management Journal 5 (1984): 171–180.10.1002/(ISSN)1097-0266
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• White, N. Giorgio Armani. London: Carlton, 2000.
   Google Scholar
• Wilkins, M. “The Neglected Intangible Asset: The Influence of the Trade Mark on the Rise of the Modern Corporation.” Business History 34 (1992): 66–99.10.1080/00076799200000004
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar