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Articles

Tenement homework on Army uniforms: The gendering of industrial democracy during World War I

Pages 231-252 | Published online: 28 Feb 2007

  • Quoted in National Consumers' League Saving Labor Power in Wartime: The Second Line of Defense New York 1918 3 3 “Baker Picks Labor Standards Board,” The New York Tribune, Aug. 25, 1917. For one account of Baker's decision, “Uniforms from Sweatshops,” The Survey, 38 (Sept. 15, 1917), 519.
  • U.S., Senate, 61st Congress, 2nd session . 1911 . “ Men's Ready-Made Clothing ” . In Report on the Condition of Woman and Child Wage-Earners in the United States Vol. 2 , 413 – 512 . Washington, DC Document No. 645
  • For Baker's involvement in the NCL, see Kelley Florence Twenty-Five Years of the Consumer's League Movement reprint from The Survey, November 27, 1915, Women in Industry Series No. 10, National Consumers' League, vertical files, Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe; for Kelley, Kathyrn Kish Sklar, “Hull House in the 1890s,” Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society, 10 (1985), 658–77. For the men around the NCL, Sybil Lipschultz, “Social Feminism and Legal Discourse, 1908–1923,” Yale Journal of Law and Feminism, 2 (1989), 131–60. For Hillman and Kirstein, Mathew Josephson, Sidney Hillman: Statesman of American Labor (Garden City, 1952), 86–110, superseded by Steven Fraser, Labor Will Rule: Sidney Hillman and the Rise of Labor (New York, 1991). For Lippmann, Ronald Steel, Walter Lippman and the New Century (New York, 1980).
  • For one analysis along this line that emphasizes the prefigurative nature of WWI administrative bureaucracies, see Harris Howell The snares of liberalism? Politicians, bureaucrats, and the shaping of federal labour relations policy in the United States, ca. 1915–47 Shop floor bargaining and the state: Historical and comparative perspectives Tolliday Steven Zeitlin Jonathan Cambridge 1985 156 159 in
  • For the history of state intervention, especially through the use of injunctions, against organizing workers, see Forbath William The Shaping of the American Labor Movement Harvard Law Review 1989 102 1109 1256
  • See his Sidney Hillman: Labor's Machiavelli Labor Leaders in America Dubofsky Melvyn Van Tine Warren Urbana 1987 207 233 in and his “Dress Rehearsal for the New Deal: Shop-Floor Insurgents, Political Elites, and Industrial Democracy in the Amalgamated Clothing Workers,” in Michael H. Frisch and Daniel J. Walkowitz, eds., Working-Class America: Essays on Labor, Community and American Society (Urbana, 1983), 212–55.
  • For an extended discussion of this point, see Boris Eileen The Quest for Labor Standards in the Era of Eleanor Roosevelt: The Case of Industrial Homework Wisconsin Women's Law Journal 1987 2 53 72 and Alice Kessler-Harris, “Protection for Women: Trade Unions and Labor Laws,” Wendy Chavkin, ed., Double Exposure: Women's Health Hazards on the Job and at Home, (New York, 1984), 139–53.
  • Saving Labor Power in Wartime 1 – 1 .
  • Watmough , Anna C. “ The Consumers' League ” . In The Monthly Leader , NCL Papers 3 – 4 . reel 113, frames 465–7; “Tenement House Workers—The Sweating System in 1910,” ibid., reel 114, frames 337–9; “Your Mother E*—,” ibid., frames 118–9. For extensive documentation, see Boris, Saving the Home from the Factory, chapts. 2–4.
  • For the history of homework regulation, Shallcross Ruth Industrial Homework: An Analysis of Homework Regulation Here and Abroad New York 1939 Frieda S. Miller, “Industrial Home Work in the United States,” International Labour Review, 43 (Jan. 1941), 1–50.
  • Boris . Saving the Home from the Factory chapt. 4
  • National Consumers' League, Resolution . 1917 . May 11 Florence Kelley to William B. Wilson, May 12, 1917; Wilson to Kelley, May 15, 1917; Wilson to Hon. Newton D. Baker, May 15, 1917; Wilson to Hon. Josephus Daniels, May 15, 1917; Josephus Daniels to Wilson, May 21, 1917; Franklin D. Roosevelt, Acting Secretary of War, to The Honorable Secretary of Labor, June 26, 1917; all in General Records of the Dept. of Labor, 1907–1942 (Chief Clerk's Files), RG174, box 20, file 390 “National Consumers' League, 1917–20,” National Archives; on the Brooklyn Naval Depot, Committee on Women in Industry of the Advisory Commission of the Council of National Defense, Making The Uniforms For Our Navy, Women in War Industries Series, No. 2 (Sept. 1918), 12–14.
  • Sharpe , Henry G. May 1917 . “ Quartermaster General ” . In Memorandum for the Secretary of War May , 24 enclosed in letter from Newton Baker to Hon. W.B. Wilson, June 4, 1917, in RG174, box 20, folder 390; Erna Risch, Quartermaster Support of the Army, 1775–1939 (Washington, DC, 1989), 620–3; “Denies Sweatshop Charge,” The New York Times, Aug. 20, 1917.
  • Risch . Quartermaster Support of the Army 144 – 148 . 520–7; testimony of Rev. Francis J. Clay Moran, Chair of the Sweatshop Committee of the Church Association for the Advancement of the Interests of Labor, quoted in “Evils of the Sweatshop,” The New York Times, Dec. 1, 1900; “Army Uniforms As Sweat Shop Beds,” The New York Herald, Mar. 4, 1899; testimony of Daniel O'Leary, chief factory inspector of the State of New York, before the Industrial Commission, reported in “The Sweatshop System,” The New York Times, Mar. 9, 1899; see also, T.J. Lappin, “The Time-Worn Subject,” Thirteenth Annual Report of the International Factory Inspectors of North America (1899), 19.
  • For the best summary at the time, True R.S. Memorandum of the Needle Trades in America Papers of the War Labor Policies Board 1918 Dec. 10 “Correspondence of Chairman,” Box 24, folder “needle trades,” RG1, National Archives. See also, Committee on Women in Industry of the Advisory Commission of the U.S. Council of National Defense, The Manufacture of Army Shirts Under the Home Work System. Jeffersonville, Indiana, Women in War Industries Series, No. 1 (July 1918), 11, fn; Sidney Hillman, “Memorandum Submitted By the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America,” to Walter Lippman, War Department, July 5, 1917, 1–2, in Box 4, folder 7, ACWA Papers, Labor-Management Documentation Center, Cornell Univ., Ithaca, NY. See also, Josephson, Sidney Hillman, 161. For conditions in New York during the early war, see reports discussed in “Balme War Office for Sweatshop evil,” The New York Times, Aug. 20, 1917. For Chicago, which also suffered from unemployment during the summer of 1917, Renee B. Stern, “Report on Needle Trades Investigation Chicago, June 6–July 1, 1917,” National Women's Trade Union League Papers, Reel 68, frames 194–203 (microfilm edition).
  • See Fraser Sidney Hillman 210 213 On the history of the founding of the Amalgamated, Josephson, Sidney Hillman, 86–110.
  • July 1917 . “ The Government and Organized Labor ” . In New Republic Vol. 11 , July , 263 – 265 . 7 The ACWA reprinted part of this editorial in “The Manufacture of Army Clothing,” Documentary History of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, Proceedings of the Third Biennial Convention, Baltimore, MD, May 13–18, 1919, 133–4.
  • Stogodell , R.R. May : 1917 – 1917 . Q.M. Corps to ACWA 21 Stogodell to Mr. J.P. Friedman, Clothing Cutters Union, June 16, 1917; Clothing Cutters Union to Provost Marshal-General, June 22, 1917, all in ACWA Papers, Box 4, folder 7.
  • Hillman . Memorandum Submitted 3 – 3 . True, “Memorandum on the Needle Trades,” 5, 8–9.
  • Florence Kelley later wrote to Baker, “the question which six weeks ago was asked in anxious whispers by friends, is now screamed in newspaper scareheads: ‘Are the drafted men to serve in scab uniforms?’” My dear Mr. Secretary 1917 Aug. 13 Reel 2, frame 107, Newton D. Baker Papers, Library of Congress; Western Union Telegram from Kelley to Hillman, June 26, 1917; Kelley to “My dear Mr. Price,” June 27, 1917; Kelley to Walter Lippmann, June 26, 1917, all in Box 4, folder 15; see also, Hillman to “My dear Mr. Williams,” July 3, 1917; Hillman to “My Dear Mr. Williams,” June 22, 1917, both in Box 7, folder 17; Hillman to Lippman, July 6, 1917; Hillman to Lippmann, July 18, 1917, box 7, folder 4, all in ACWA Papers. For one account of these activities, Josephson, Sidney Hillman, 162–5. Lippmann to Newton Baker, Baker Papers, Reel 2, frames 154, 156, 174, 199, and 204.
  • Hillman . Memorandum Submitted and attachments; “No Sweatshop Uniforms,” The New York Tribune, Aug. 26, 1917, editorial.
  • Hillman . Memorandum Submitted passim.
  • 1917 . Society Devouring Its Own Children . Advance , 1 Aug. 24
  • Hall , George A. Sept. 1917 . Memorandum Regarding connection of Committee with investigation of finishing in tenement houses of U.S. Army uniforms Sept. , 28 Box 9, folder 49, NYCLC Papers, State of New York Library, Albany; War-Time Needs of New York's Child Workers (New York, 1918), 4–5, NYCLC Papers, Box 33, folder 17. See also, pamphlet mock-up, Soldier Uniform Making in New York City Tenements Based Upon Investigation Conducted During August and September 1917, NYCLC Papers, box 9, folder 49. On the law introduced in 1918 to forbid manufacturing wearing apparel in the tenements, “Child Labor Laws,” The Garment Worker, April 26, 1918. This law died in committee. See circular letter from George A. Hall, April 4, 1918, NYCLC Papers, Box 9, folder 49.
  • The initial investigation appeared in Memorandum Regarding Work in Tenement Houses in New York City on Government Contracts for the Manufacture of Army Clothing NYCLC Papers box 9, folder 49. This was submitted as part of the ACWA case to Lippmann in July. Later reports remained in note form. See box 9, folder 49 for typescripts.
  • Hall . Aug. 1917 . Memorandum Regarding connection of Committee with investigation of finishing in tenement houses of U.S. Army uniforms , NYCLC Papers Aug. , typed report of investigations 20 to Sept. 20, 1917 box 9, folder 49.
  • U.S. Dept. of Labor, Children's Bureau . 1922 . Industrial Home Work of Children: A Study Made in Providence, Pawtucket, and Central Falls, R. I. , Bureau Publication No. 100 9 – 9 . Washington, DC fn.5
  • See, for example, investigation for Aug. 27, 1917 and Sept. 6, 1917. See also, Against Sweatshop Work on Army Clothing New York Evening Post 1917 Aug. 30 which reprints a statement given out by George A. Hall, the Secretary of the NYCLC, which describes the hawking of the coats and conditions of tenement labor under which they were finished. On the irregularity, see Annis Cumano, investigation for Aug. 21, 1917.
  • See, for example, Larosa Josie Delesio Investigations for Aug. 20, 1917 Rebecca Feldman, Aug. 16, 1917; Annie Dumane, Aug. 21, 1917; Nicolette Mugarossa, Aug. 23, 1917.
  • Benedette . Aug. 1917 . General Information Aug. , 23 Sept. 4, 1917
  • Investigation for Aug. 23, 1917 including Andrea Marina; investigation for Sept. 7, 1917.
  • 1917 . Industrial Liberty in Wartime: Address of the Hon. Newton D. Baker, Secretary of War . Eighteenth Annual Meeting of the National Consumers' League . Nov. 14, 1917 , Baltimore. pp. 7 – 7 . in Papers of the Consumers' League of Massachusetts, Box 31, vol. 5, Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe.
  • Letter to “My dear Mr. Secretary” from Florence Kelley, In Re Army Uniforms 1917 Aug. 13 frames 107–8; Committee on clothing Contracts to The Secretary of War, “Preliminary Report of Committee,” Aug. 13, 1917, Reel 1, frames 400–401, Baker Papers.
  • Kelley to “My dear Mr. Secretary,” Aug. 1917 13 frame 108; Lippmann to N.D.B., Dec. 16 [1917], Reel 2, frame 204, Baker Papers; “Boston Workers Act Despite Baker's Step,” The New York Tribune, Aug. 25, 1917; “Memorandum for the Secretary of War, “Aug. 10, 1917, from F. F., Baker Papers, reel 1, frame 399.
  • Sept. 1917 . “Memorandum for the Secretary of War” on “Subject: Plan for dealing with so-called I.W.W. strikes and western labor troubles” Sept. , 4 from F. F., Reel 1, frames 401–403, Baker Papers.
  • The Manufacture of Army Clothing . Proceedings of the Third Biennial Convention . pp. 139 – 140 .
  • For its effectiveness in ending homework, Industrial Liberty in Wartime 8 8
  • May 1918 . “ Hillman Raps Sweatshop Plan ” . In The Evening Call May , 14 in Sidney Hillman: The Statesman of the New Industrial Order, “Red Book, 1910–”, #1, 251–2, ACWA Papers.
  • For the concept citizen-worker, see Faue Elizabeth Brotherhood, Community, and the Citizen-Soldier; Representations of Gender and Labor Solidarity Organization of American Historians Louisville 1991 unpublished paper
  • Labor Policy of the War Department , War Labor Policies Board Papers Correspondence of Chairman, box 32, entry 2, War Dept.–Nov. 1918; U.S. Dept of Labor, Woman in Industry Service, “Standards Governing the Employment of Women in Industry,” for release Dec. 12, 1918, RG86, “Women in Industry Service, Correspondence of Director,” Box 2; “Standards of Industry for Government Contracts,” Woman's Committee, Council of National Defense, Illinois Division, RG174, Box 131, folder “Women's Bureau, 1913–18,” all in National Archives.

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