Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance

References

• Asmussen , E. 1981 . Similarities and dissimilarities between static and dynamic exercise . Circulation Research , 48 ( supp. 1 ) : 3 – 10 .
   Google Scholar
• Barnes , W. S. 1980 . The relationship between maximum isometric strength and intramuscular circulatory occlusion . Ergonomics , 23 : 351 – 357 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bigland-Ritchie , B. , Dawson , N. J. , Johansson , R. S. and Lippold , O. C. J. 1986 . Reflex origin for the slowing of motor neurone firing rates in fatigue of human voluntary contractions . Journal of Physiology , 379 : 451 – 459 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bollen , S. R. and Cutts , A. 1993 . Grip strength and endurance in rock climbers . Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers H: Journal of Engineering in Medicine , 207 : 87 – 92 .
   PubMedGoogle Scholar
• Carlson , B. 1969 . Level of maximum isometric strength and relative load isometric endurance . Ergonomics , 12 : 429 – 435 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Carlson , B and McGraw , L. 1971 . Isometric strength and relative isometric endurance . Research Quarterly , 42 : 244 – 250 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Delp , M. D. 1995 . Effect of exercise training on endothelium-dependent peripheral vascular responses . Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise , 27 : 1152 – 1157 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Durnin , J. V. G. A. and Womersly , J. 1974 . Body fat assessed from total body density and its estimation from skinfold thickness: measurements of 481 men and women aged 16 – 72 years . British Journal of Nutrition , 34 : 77 – 97 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Farrington , J. 1999 . Nutrition . On the Edge , 92 : 28 – 29 .
   Google Scholar
• Ferguson , R. A. and Brown , M. D. 1997 . Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects . European Journal of Applied Physiology , 76 : 174 – 180 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Goddard , D. and Neumann , U. 1993 . Performance rock climbing , 33 – 39 . Leicester, , UK : Cordee .
   Google Scholar
• Grant , S. , Hynes , V. , Whitaker , A and Aitchison , T. 1996 . Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers . Journal of Sports Sciences , 14 : 301 – 309 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Grant , S. , Shields , C. , Fitzpatrick , V. , Ming Loh , W. , Whitaker , A. Watt , I. 2003 . Climbing-specific finger endurance: A comparison of intermediate rock climbers, rowers and aerobically trained individuals . Journal of Sports Sciences , 21 : 621 – 630 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Heyward , V. 1980 . Relative endurance of high and low strength women . Research Quarterly , 51 : 486 – 493 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Hurni , M. 2003 . Coaching climbing , Guilford, CT : Globe Pequot Press .
   Google Scholar
• Jones , D. A. and Round , J. M. 1990 . Skeletal muscle in health and disease: A textbook of muscle physiology , Manchester : Manchester University Press .
   Google Scholar
• Jones , D. B. A. 1991 . The power of climbing , Leicester, , UK : Cordee .
   Google Scholar
• Kahn , J. F. , Favriou , F. , Jouanin , J. C. and Grucza , R. 2000 . Effect of co-contractions on the cardiovascular response to submaximal static handgrip . European Journal of Applied Physiology , 83 : 506 – 511 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• MacDougall , J. D. , McKelvie , D. E. , Sale , N. , Moroz , D. E. , McArtney , N and Buick , F. 1992 . Factors affecting blood pressure during heavy weight lifting and static contractions . Journal of Applied Physiology , 73 : 1590 – 1597 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• McNair , P. J. , Depledge , J. , Brettkelly , M and Stanley , S. N. 1995 . Verbal encouragement: Effects on maximal effort voluntary action . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 30 : 243 – 245 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Mermier , C. M. , Robergs , R. A. , McMinn , S. M. and Heward , V. H. 1997 . Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 31 : 224 – 228 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Morstad , M. 2000 . Training – technique . On the Edge , 98 : 70 – 73 .
   Google Scholar
• Noé , F. , Quiane , F and Martin , L. 2001 . Influence of steep gradient supporting walls in rock climbing: Biomechanical analysis . Gait and Posture , 13 : 86 – 94 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Oviglia , M. 2006 . Rock festivals . Up – European Climbing Report , 3 : 8 – 23 .
   Google Scholar
• Quaine , F. , Martin , L. and Blanchi , J. P. 1997 . The effect of body position and number of supports on wall reaction forces in rock climbing . Journal of Applied Biomechanics , 13 : 14 – 23 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Sagar , H. R. 2001 . Climbing your best , Mechanicsburg, PA : Stackpole Books .
   Google Scholar
• Schadle-Schardt , W. 1998 . Die zeitiche gestaltung von belastung und entlastung im wettkampfklettern als element der trainings-steurung . Leistungssport , 1/98 : 23 – 28 .
   Google Scholar
• Serfass , R. C. , Stull , G. A. , Ben Sira , D and Kearney , J. T. 1979 . Effects of circulatory occlusion on submaximal isometric endurance . American Corrective Therapy Journal , 33 : 147 – 154 .
   PubMedGoogle Scholar
• Sinoway , L. I. , Mutch , T. I. , Minotti , J. R. and Zelis , R. 1986 . Enhanced maximal metabolic vasodilatation in the dominant forearms of tennis players . Journal of Applied Physiology , 61 : 673 – 678 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Smolander , J. 1994 . Capacity for vasodilatation in the forearms of manual and office workers . European Journal of Applied Physiology , 69 : 163 – 167 .
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Snell , P. G. , Martin , W. H. , Buckey , J. C. and Blomqvist , C. G. 1987 . Maximal vascular leg conductance in trained and untrained men . Journal of Applied Physiology , 62 : 606 – 661 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Spurway , N. C. 1999 . “ Muscle ” . In Basic and applied sciences for sports medicine , Edited by: Maughan , R. J. 42 – 44 . Oxford : Butterworth Heinemann .
   Google Scholar
• Watts , P. B. , Daggett , M. , Gallagher , P and Wilkins , B. 2000 . Metabolic response during sport rock climbing and effects of active versus passive recovery . International Journal of Sports Medicine , 21 : 185 – 190 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts , P. B. and Drobish , K. M. 1998 . Physiological responses to simulated rock climbing at different angles . Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise , 30 : 1118 – 1122 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts , P. , Joubert , L. M. , Lish , A. K. , Mast , J. D. and Wilkins , B. 2003 . Anthropometry of young competitive sport rock climbers . British Journal of Sports Medicine , 37 : 420 – 424 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts , P. B. , Martin , D. T. and Durtschi , S. 1993 . Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers . Journal of Sports Sciences , 11 : 113 – 117 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts , P. B. , Newbury , V and Sulentic , J. 1996 . Acute changes in handgrip strength and blood lactate with sustained sport rock climbing . Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness , 36 : 255 – 260 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Webster , J. , Newham , D. , Petrie , J. C. and Lovell , H. G. 1984 . Influence of arm position on measurement of blood pressure . British Medical Journal , 288 : 1574 – 1575 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Wright , J. R. , McCloskey , D. I. and Fitzpatrick , R. C. 2000 . Effects of systemic arterial blood pressure on the contractile force of a human hand muscle . Journal of Applied Physiology , 88 : 1390 – 1396 .
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar