References
- Amca, A., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S., & Berton, E. (2012). Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 30(7), 669–677.
- Bland, J. M., & Altman, D. G. (1986). Statistical methods for assessing agreement between two methods of clinical measurement. Lancet, i, 307–310.
- Bourdin, C., Teasdale, N., & Nougier, V. (1998). Attentional demands and the organization of reaching movements in rock climbing. Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 69 (4): 406–410.
- Bourne, R., Halaki, M., Vanwanseele, B., & Clarke, J. (2011). Measuring lifting forces in rock climbing: Effect of hold size and fingertip structure. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 27, 40–46.
- España-Romero, V., Ortega F., Artero, E., Jiménez-Pavón, D., Gutiérrez, A., Castillo, M., & Ruiz, J. (2009). Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 107 (5): 517–525.
- Flanagan, J. R., Burstedt, M. K. O., & Johansson, R. S. (1999). Control of fingertip forces in multidigit manipulation. Journal of Neurophysiology, 81, 1706–1717.
- Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A., & Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sport Sciences, 14(4), 301–309.
- Hoozemans, M. J., & van Dieën, J. H. (2005). Prediction of handgrip forces using surface EMG of forearm muscles. Journal of Electromyography and Kinesiology, 15(4): 358–366.
- Jasperse, J. L., Seals, D. R., & Callister, R. (1994). Active forearm blood flow adjustments to handgrip exercise in young and older healthy men. Journal of Physiology, 474(2): 353–360.
- Kinoshita, H., Kawai, S., & Ikuta, K. (1995). Contributions and coordination of individual fingers in multiple finger prehension. Ergonomics, 38, 1212–1230.
- Latash, M. L., Gelfand, I. M., Li, Z.-M., & Zatsiorsky, V. M. (1998a). Changes in the force-sharing pattern induced by modifications of visual feedback during force production by a set of fingers. Experimental Brain Research, 123, 255–262.
- Latash, M. L., Gelfand, I. M., Li, Z.-M., & Zatsiorsky, V. M. (1998b). A principle of error compensation studied within a task of force production by a redundant set of fingers. Experimental Brain Research, 122, 131–138.
- Li, Z. M. (2002). The influence of wrist position on individual finger forces during forceful grip. The Journal of Hand Surgery, 27(5), 886–896.
- Marco, R., Sharkey, N., Smith, T., & Zissimos, A. (1998). Pathomechanics of closed rupture of the flexor tendon pulleys in rock climbers. Journal of Bone and Joint Surgery-American, 80(7), 1012–1019.
- McDermid, J. D., Lee, A., Richards, R. S., & Roth, J. H. (2004). Individual finger strength: Are the ulnar digits powerful? Journal of Hand Therapy, 17(3), 364–367.
- Michailov, M., Mladenov, L., & Schöffl, V. (2009). Anthropometric and strength characteristics of world-class boulderers. Medicina Sportiva, 13(4), 231–238.
- Nevill, A. M., & Atkinson, G. (1997). Assessing agreement between measurements recorded on a ratio scale in sports medicine and sports science. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 31, 314–318.
- Noé, F., Quaine, F., & Martin, L. (2001). Influence of steep gradient supporting walls in rockclimbing: Biomechanical analyses. Gait and Posture, 13, 86–94.
- Quaine, F., & Vigouroux, L. (2003). Effect of simulated rock climbing finger postures on force sharing among the fingers. Clinical Biomechanics, 18(5), 385–388.
- Quaine, F., & Vigouroux, L. (2004). Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 25(8), 634–637.
- Quaine, F., Vigouroux, L., Paclet, F., & Colloud, F. (2011). The thumb during the crimp grip. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 32(1), 49–53.
- Schoeffl, I., Oppelt, K., Juengert, J., Schweizer, A., Neuhuber, W., & Schoeffl, V. (2009). The influence of the crimp and slope grip position on the finger pulley system. Journal of Biomechanics, 42(13), 2183–2187.
- Schöffl, V. R., Möckel, F., Köstermeyer, G., Roloff, I., & Küpper, T. (2006). Development of a performance diagnosis of the anaerobic strength endurance of the forearm flexor muscles in sport climbing. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 27, 205–211.
- Schweizer, A. (2001). Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers. Journal of Biomechanics, 34(2), 217–223.
- Schweizer, A. (2011). Kinetics of crimp and slope grip in rock climbing. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 27(2): 116–121.
- Usaj, A. (1996). The increase of duration of isometric contraction may not relate to change of relative oxygenation of forearm muscle. European Journal of Physiology, 431(6), 265–266.
- Watts, P. B. (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 96, 361–372.
- Watts, P. B., Gannon, R., Kobeinia, J., Maynard, J., Sansom, R. L., & Jensen, E. (1999). EMG responses in rock climbing using six hand positions. Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise, 3(5), 169.
- Watts, P. B., Newbury, V., & Sulentic, J. (1996). Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance, and blood lactate with sustained sport rock climbing. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 36, 255–260.