Influencers, Niche Magazines and Journalistic Practice in Italy: Toward a New Fashion Editorial System

References

• Abidin, C. 2016. “Visibility Labour: Engaging with Influencers’ Fashion Brands and# OOTD Advertorial Campaigns on Instagram.” Media International Australia, 161(1), 86–100. https://doi.org/10.1177/1329878X16665177
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Benjamin, W. 2020. “The Work of Art in the Age of Its Technological Reproducibility.” In Philosophers on Film from Bergson to Badiou, edited by C. Kul-Want, 44–79. New York: Columbia University Press.
   Google Scholar
• Bertaux, D., ed. 1981. Biography and Society: The Life Story Approach in the Social Sciences. London: Sage.
   Google Scholar
• Blaszczyk, R.L. 2000. Imagining Consumers: Design and Innovation from Wedgwood to Corning. Baltimore (MD): The Johns Hopkins University Press.
   Google Scholar
• Chandler, A. D. 1977. The Visible Hand: The Managerial Revolution in American Business. Cambridge, Mass: Belknap Press.
   Google Scholar
• Cordero, R. 2020. “Bryanboy: How Fashion’s Original Influencer Became a TikTok Star, Business of Fashion.” 29 October. Accessed October 2020. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/bryanboy-bryan-grey-yambao-tiktok-influencer-blogging.
   Google Scholar
• Crewe, L. 2013. “When Virtual and Material Worlds Collide: Democratic Fashion in the Digital Age.” Environment and Planning A, 45(4), 760–780. https://doi.org/10.1068/a4546
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• de Perthuis, K., and Findlay, R. 2019. “How Fashion Travels: The Fashionable Ideal in the Age of Instagram.” Fashion Theory, 23(2), 219–242. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1567062
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• DeJean, J. E. 2005. The essence of style: how the French invented high fashion, fine food, chic cafés, style, sophistication, and glamour. New York: Free Press.
   Google Scholar
• Ferguson, M. 1983. Forever feminine: Women’s magazines and the cult of femininity. London: Ashgate Pub Co.
   Google Scholar
• Fernandez C. 2018. “Fashion Editors or Influencers? Sometimes It’s Hard to Tell, Business of Fashion.” 31 May. Accessed October 2020. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/fashion-editors-or-influencers-sometimes-its-hard-to-tell.
   Google Scholar
• Findlay, R. 2015. “The Short, Passionate, and Close-Knit History of Personal Style Blogs.” Fashion Theory, 19(2), 157–78. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174115X14168357992319
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Findlay, R. 2017. Personal Style Blogs: Appearances that Fascinate. London: Intellect.
   Google Scholar
• Fiske J. 1998. The Popular Economy: Cultural Theory and Popular Culture. Upper Saddle River (NJ): Prentice Hall.
   Google Scholar
• Forgacs, D., and Gundle, S. (2007). Mass Culture and Italian Society from Fascism to the Cold War Bloomington. LUOGO: Indiana University Press.
   Google Scholar
• Geczy, A., and Karaminas, V. (eds). 2013. Fashion and Art. London: Berg.
   Google Scholar
• Gough-Yates, A. 2003. Understanding Women’s Magazines: Publishing, Markets and Readerships. London: Routledge.
   Google Scholar
• Hahn, H. 2005. “Fashion Discourses in Fashion Magazines and Madame de Girardin’s Lettres parisiennes in July-Monarchy France (1830–48).” Fashion Theory, 9(2), 205–77. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270405778051392
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Hirsch, P.M. 1972. “Processing fads and fashions: An organization-set analysis of cultural industry systems.” American Journal of Sociology, 77(4), 639–59. https://doi.org/10.1086/225192
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Keinan, A., Maslauskaite, K., Crener, S., and Dessain, V. 2015. “The Blonde Salad.” Harvard Business School Case 515-074. Harvard: Harvard Business School. https://www.hbs.edu/faculty/Pages/item.aspx?num=48520
   Google Scholar
• Kidwell, C.B., and Christman, M.C. 1974. Suiting Everyone: The Democratization of Clothing in America. Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press.
   Google Scholar
• Leopold, E. 1993. “The Manufacturing of the Fashion System.” In Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader, edited by J. Ash, E. Wilson, 101–17. Berkeley: University of California Press.
   Google Scholar
• Lipovetsky, G. 1994. The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy. Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press.
   Google Scholar
• Luvaas, B. 2018. “Street-Style Geographies: Re-Mapping the Fashion Blogipelago.” International Journal of Fashion Studies, 5(2), 289–308. https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.5.2.289_1
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Lynge-Jorlén, A. 2012. “Between Frivolity and Art: Contemporary Niche Fashion Magazines.” Fashion Theory, 16(1), 7–28, https://doi.org/10.2752/175174112X13183318404104
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Lynge-Jorlén, A. 2017. Niche Fashion Magazines: Changing the Shape of Fashion. London: Bloomsbury.
   Google Scholar
• Moeran, B. 2008. “Economic and Cultural Production as Structural Paradox: The Case of International Fashion Magazine Publishing.” International Review of Sociology, 18(2), 267−81. https://doi.org/10.1080/03906700802087944
   Google Scholar
• Moeran, B. 2010. “The Portrayal of Beauty in Women’s Fashion Magazines.” Fashion Theory, 14(4), 491–510. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174110X12792058833933
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Mora, E. 2009. Fare moda. Esperienze di produzione e consumo. Milan: Bruno Mondadori.
   Google Scholar
• Mora, E. 2013. “What is Special in the Collections? Fashion Brands and Semiotic Saturation.” In From Production to Consumption: The Cultural Industry of Fashion, 91–105, edited by M. Pedroni. Oxford: Inter-Disciplinary.
   Google Scholar
• Mora, E., and Pedroni, M. 2017. Fashion Tales: Feeding the imaginary. Bern: Peter Lang.
   Google Scholar
• Neri, M. 2021. Il progresso, secondo noi. Vogue Italia, September, pp. 146–49.
   Google Scholar
• O’Reilly, T. 2005. What is Web 2.0. www.oreillynet.com/pub/a/oreilly/tim/news/2005/09/30/what-is-web-20.html.
   Google Scholar
• Pedroni, M. 2014. “Collaboration, Antagonism, Exploitation: Which is the Relation between Fashion Blogging and Fashion Journalism.” In Digital Development in the Fashion Industry: Communication, Culture and Business, Universidad de Navarra, edited by M. Torregrosa, C. Sánchez-Blanco, T. Sádaba. 87–101. Pamplona, Spain: Universidad de Navarra.
   Google Scholar
• Pedroni, M. 2015. “Stumbling on the Heels of My Blog: Career, Forms of Capital, and Strategies in The (Sub) Field of Fashion Blogging.” Fashion Theory, 19(2), 179–199. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174115X14168357992355
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Pedroni, M. 2023. “Two Decades of Fashion Blogging and Influencing: A Critical Overview.” Fashion Theory, 2023, 1–32. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.2017213
   Google Scholar
• Pedroni, M., and Volonté, P. 2014. “Art Seen from Outside: Non-Artistic Legitimation within the Field of Fashion Design.” Poetics, 43, 102–19. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.poetic.2014.01.007
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Ramos-Serrano, M., and Martínez-García, Á. 2016. “Personal Style Bloggers: The Most Popular Visual Composition Principles and Themes on Instagram.” Observatorio (OBS*), 10(2), 89–109. https://doi.org/10.15847/obsOBS1022016947
   Google Scholar
• Rhodes, A., and Zuloago, R. 2003. “A semiotic analysis of high fashion advertising.” International Journal of English and Literature, 1(1), 11–16.
   Google Scholar
• Rocamora, A. 2011. “Personal Fashion Blogs: Screens and Mirrors in Digital Self-Portraits.” Fashion Theory, 15(4), 407–24. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174111X13115179149794
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Rocamora, A. 2016. “Pierre Bourdieu: The Field of Fashion.” In Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, edited by A. Rocamora and A. Smelik, 233–50. London: I.B. Tauris.
   Google Scholar
• Rocamora, A. 2018. “The Labour of Fashion Blogging”. In Fashioning Professionals, edited by L. Armstrong and F. McDowell, 65–81. London: Bloomsbury.
   Google Scholar
• Rocamora, A. 2022. “The Datafication and Quantification of Fashion: The Case of Fashion Influencers.” Fashion Theory, 2022, 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2048527
   Google Scholar
• Silla, C. 2020. “Marketing Lifestyles: The Ready-to-Wear Industry and the Genesis of the Consumer in the United States (1880–1930).” International Journal of Fashion Studies, 7(1), 3–23. https://doi.org/10.1386/infs_00014_1
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Sinclair, J. 2002. “Fashion Blogs. The Age.” 17 October. Accessed July, 2020. http://goo.gl/Pj6Hbr.
   Google Scholar
• Sozzani F. 2011. “Bloggers: A Culture Phenomenon or An Epidemic Issue? Vogue Italia.” Editor’s blog, 28 January. Accessed July, 2020. https://www.vogue.it/en/magazine/editor-s-blog/2011/01/january-28th.
   Google Scholar
• Strasser, S. 1989. Satisfaction Guaranteed: The Making of the American Mass Market. New York: Pantheon Books.
   Google Scholar
• Titton, M. 2016. “Fashion Criticism Unravelled: A Sociological Critique of Criticism in Fashion Media.” International Journal of Fashion Studies, 3(2), 209–223. https://doi.org/10.1386/infs.3.2.209_1
   Google Scholar
• Vänskä, A. 2020. “Fashion Media.” In The International Encyclopedia of Gender, Media, and Communication, edited by K. Ross, I. Bachmann, V. Cardo, S. Moorti, M. Scarcelli, 1–10. Hoboken: Wiley & Sons.
   Google Scholar
• Wernick, A. 1991. “Promotional Culture.” CTheory, 15(1–3), 260–81.
   Google Scholar
• Zuckerman, M.E. 1998. A History of Popular Women’s Magazines in the United States, 1792–1995. Westport (CT): Greenwood Press.
   Google Scholar