References
- Alexander , M. 2003 . Applying 3D body scanning technologies to body shape analysis , Dissertation (PhD). Auburn University .
- Armstrong , H. J. 1987 . Patternmaking for fashion design , New York : HarperCollins .
- Armstrong , H. J. 1995 . Patternmaking for fashion design , New York : HarperCollins .
- Armstrong , H. J. 2006 . Patternmaking for fashion design , 4th ed , Upper Saddle River , NJ : Pearson Prentice Hall .
- Ashdown , S. P. and DeLong , M. 1995 . Perception testing of apparel ease variation . Applied Ergonomics , 26 ( 1 ) : 47 – 54 .
- Ashdown , S. P. and Dunne , L. 2006 . A study of automated custom fit: readiness of the technology for the apparel industry . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 24 ( 2 ) : 121 – 135 .
- Ashdown , S. , Loker , S. and Adelson , C. 2003 . Use of body scan data to design sizing systems based on target markets . National Textile Center Annual Report [online] , : 1 – 10 . Available from: http://www.ntcresearch.org/pdf-rpts/AnRp03/S01-CR01-A3.pdf [Accessed 16 August 2011]
- ASTM . D 5585-95 standard table of body measurements for adult female misses figure type, sizes 2-20 . Annual book of ASTM standards. section 7, textiles . pp. 777 – 780 . Philadelphia , PA : American Society for Testing and Materials .
- Beazley , A. 1999 . Size and fit: the development of size charts for clothing—Part 3 . Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management , 3 ( 1 ) : 66 – 84 .
- Beazley , A. and Bond , T. 2003 . Computer-aided pattern design and product development , Oxford : Blackwell Science .
- Bray , N. 1987a . Dress pattern designing: the basic principles of cut and fit , 5th ed , Oxford : BSP Professional Books .
- Bray , N. 1987b . More dress pattern designing , 4th ed , Oxford : BSP Professional Books .
- Breslin , M. and Buchanan , R. 2008 . On the case study method of research and teaching in design . Design Issues , 24 ( 1 ) : 36 – 40 .
- Bye , E. 2010 . A direction for clothing and textile design research . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 28 ( 3 ) : 205 – 217 .
- Bye , E. and LaBat , K. 2005 . An analysis of apparel industry fit sessions . Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management [online] , 4 ( 3 ) : 1 – 5 . Available from: http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue3/articles/Bye/Bye_ full_129_05.pdf [Accessed 16 August 2011]
- Bye , E. 2008 . Optimized pattern grading . International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology , 20 ( 2 ) : 79 – 92 .
- CDC . 2011 . About BMI for adults [online] , Division of Nutrition, Physical Activity and Obesity, National Center for Chronic Disease Prevention and Health Promotion . Available from: http://www.cdc.gov/nccd php/dnpa/bmi/adult_BMI/about_adult_BMI.htm [Accessed 16 August 2011]
- Chen , C.-M. 2006 . Fit evaluation within the made-to-measure process . International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology , 19 ( 2 ) : 131 – 144 .
- Chen , Y. 2008 . A new method of ease allowance generation for personalization of garment design . International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology , 20 ( 3 ) : 161 – 173 .
- Cole , J. and Czachor , S. 2009 . Professional sewing techniques for designers , New York : Fairchild .
- DeLong , M. 1993 . Data specification needed for apparel production using computers . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 11 ( 3 ) : 1 – 7 .
- Dunne , L. 2010 . Beyond the second skin: an experimental approach to addressing garment style and fit variables in the design of sensing garments . International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology, and Education , 3 ( 3 ) : 109 – 117 .
- Fang , J. J. and Ding , Y. 2008 . Expert-based customized pattern-making automation: part I. Basic patterns . International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology , 20 ( 1 ) : 26 – 40 .
- Fang , J. J. , Ding , Y. and Huang , S. C. 2008 . Expert-based customized pattern-making automation: part II. Dart design . International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology , 20 ( 1 ) : 41 – 56 .
- Feather , B. L. , Ford , S. and Herr , D. G. 1996 . Female collegiate basketball players' perceptions about their bodies, garment fit and uniform design preferences . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 14 ( 1 ) : 22 – 29 .
- Gall , M. D. , Gall , J. P. and Borg , W. R. 2003 . Educational research: an introduction , Boston : Allyn and Bacon .
- Gill , S. and Chadwick , N. 2009 . Determination of ease allowances included in pattern construction methods . International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education , 2 ( 1 ) : 23 – 31 .
- Goldsberry , E. , Shim , S. and Reich , N. 1996 . Women 55 years and older: part II. Overall satisfaction and dissatisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 14 ( 2 ) : 121 – 132 .
- Handford , J. 2003 . Professional patternmaking for designers: women's wear, men's casual wear , New York : Fairchild .
- Heisey , F. L. , Brown , P. and Johnson , R. F. 1988 . Three-dimensional pattern drafting: a theoretical framework . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 6 ( 3 ) : 1 – 9 .
- Henry , L. 2006 . The flexi-curve cure for correcting the crotch curve Unpublished manuscript
- Hollen , N. R. and Kundel , C. J. 1999 . Patternmaking by the flat-pattern method , 8th ed , Upper Saddle River , NJ : Merrill .
- Howland , K. 2001 . Making and fitting hip-huggers . Threads , 92 : 24
- Howland , K. 2004 . An incorrect crotch length makes inseams ride up . Threads , 111 : 26 – 30 .
- Hu , Z. H. 2009 . A hybrid neural network and immune algorithm approach for fit garment design . Textile Research Journal , 79 ( 14 ) : 1319 – 1330 .
- Hulme , W. H. 1949 . The theory of garment-pattern making: a textbook for clothing designers, teachers of clothing technology, and senior students , 3rd ed , London : The National Trade Press .
- Just-Style.com US . 2010 . Levi's launches web sizing tool for Curve ID Available from: http://www.just-style.com/news/levis-launches-web-sizing-tool-for-curve-id_id1089 51.aspx [Accessed 16 August 2011]
- Kang , T. J. and Kim , S. M. 2000 . Optimized garment pattern generalization based on three-dimensional anthropometric measurement . International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology , 12 ( 4 ) : 240 – 254 .
- Keiser , S. J. and Garner , M. B. 2008 . Beyond design: the synergy of apparel product development , 2nd ed , New York : Fairchild .
- Kidwell , C. B. and Christman , M. C.S. 1974 . Suiting everyone: the democratization of clothing in America , Washington : Smithsonian Institution Press .
- Koblyakova , E. B. 1980 . Osnovi konstruirovaniya odejdi (Basics of clothing construction) , Moskva : Legkaya industriya . USSR
- Kunick , P. 1984 . Modern sizing and patternmaking for womens, mens, and children garments , London : Philip Kunick .
- Knowles , L. A. 2005 . The practical guide to patternmaking for fashion designers: juniors, misses, and women , New York : Fairchild .
- Kurt Salmon Associates . 2004 . From mindshare to market share: using solution selling to drive business , New York : Kurt Salmon .
- LaBat , K. and DeLong , M. 1990 . Body cathexis and satisfaction with fit of apparel . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 8 ( 2 ) : 97 – 102 .
- Loker , S. , Ashdown , S. and Schoenfelder , K. 2005 . Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit . Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management [online] , 4 ( 3 ) : 1 – 15 . Available from: http://www. tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue3/articles/Loker/Loker_ full_136_05.pdf [Accessed 16 August 2011]
- Minott , J. 1997 . Skirts and pants patterns: Minott method for drafting, adjusting and coding skirts and pants patterns , 5th ed , Granada Hill , CA : Minott Method Books and Graphics .
- Pedersen , E. L. 2007 . Theory is everywhere: a discourse on theory . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 25 ( 1 ) : 106 – 128 .
- Petrova , A. and Ashdown , S. P. 2008 . Three-dimensional body scan data analysis: body size and shape dependence of ease values for pants' fit . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 26 ( 3 ) : 227 – 252 .
- Rasband , J. 2006 . Fabulous fit: speed fitting and alteration , 2nd ed , New York : Fairchild .
- Regan , C. L. 2008 . Apparel product design and merchandising strategies , Upper Saddle River , NJ : Pearson Prentice Hall .
- Rosen , S. 2004 . Patternmaking: comprehensive reference for fashion design , Upper Saddle River , NJ : Pearson Prentice Hall .
- Schofield , N. A. 2006 . Improving pant fit for women 55 and older through an exploration of two pant shapes . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 24 ( 2 ) : 147 – 160 .
- Seckler , V. 2005 . The nine percent solution . WWD: Women's Wear Daily , 5 Oct : 15
- Voellinger Griffey , J. and Ashdown , S. P. 2006 . Development of a basic skirt block pattern from 3D body scan data . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 24 ( 2 ) : 112 – 120 .
- Winakor , G. , Beck , M. S. and Park , S. 1990 . Using geometric models to develop a pattern for the lower bodice . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 8 ( 2 ) : 49 – 55 .
- Xu , B. 2002 . Body scanning and modeling for custom fit garments . Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management , 2 ( 2 ) : 1 – 11 .
- Yin , R. K. 2003 . Case study research: design and methods , Thousand Oaks , CA : Sage .