Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

References

• Amca, A. M., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S., & Berton, E. (2012). Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 30, 669–677. doi:10.1080/02640414.2012.658845
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Baláš, J., Pecha, O., Martin, A. J., & Cochrane, D. (2012). Hand–arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. European Journal of Sport Science, 12, 16–25. doi:10.1080/17461391.2010.546431
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Baláš, J., Panáčková, M., Strejcová, B., Martin, A. J., Cochrane, D. J., Kaláb, M., & Draper, N. (2014). Performance evaluation of the machine learning algorithms used in inference mechanism of a medical decision support system. The Scientific World Journal, 2014(2), 1–15. doi:10.1155/2014/678387
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• BMC. (2007). A brief explanation of UK traditional climbing grades. [ online]. Retrieved November 15, 2014, from https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=108
   Google Scholar
• Boschker, M. S., Bakker, F. C., & Michaels, C. F. (2002). Memory for the functional characteristics of climbing walls: perceiving affordances. Journal of Motor Behavior, 34, 25–36.10.1080/00222890209601928
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Donath, L., Roesner, K., Schöffl, V., & Gabriel, H. H. (2013). Work-relief ratios and imbalances of load application in sport climbing: Another link to overuse-induced injuries? Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 23, 406–414. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0838.2011.01399.x
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Brent, S., Hodgson, C., & Blackwell, G. (2009). Flexibility assessment and the role of flexibility as a determinant of performance in rock climbing. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 9, 67–89.
   Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Canalejo, J. C., Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Winter, D., Ellis, G., & North, C. (2011a). Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing. Isokinetics and Exercise Science, 19, 273–280.
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Draper, N., Dickson, T., Blackwell, G., Fryer, S., Priestley, S., Winter, D., & Ellis, G. (2011b). Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 29, 851–858. doi:10.1080/02640414.2011.565362
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Drum, S. (2014). Personal communication. Retrieved November 25, 2014.
   Google Scholar
• España Romero, V., Ruiz, J. R., Ortega, F. B., Artero, E. G., Vicente-Rodríguez, G., Moreno, L. A., … Gutierrez, A. (2009). Body fat measurement in elite sport climbers: Comparison of skinfold thickness equations with dual energy X-ray absorptiometry. Journal of Sports Sciences, 27, 469–477. doi:10.1080/02640410802603863
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Esposito, F., Limonta, E., Cè, E., Gobbo, M., Veicsteinas, A., & Orizio, C. (2009). Electrical and mechanical response of finger flexor muscles during voluntary isometric contractions in elite rock-climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 105, 81–92.10.1007/s00421-008-0877-5
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Fanchini, M. (2014). Personal communication. Retrieved September 23, 2014.
   Google Scholar
• Fanchini, M., Violette, F., Impellizzeri, F. M., & Maffiuletti, N. A. (2013). Differences in climbing-specific strength between boulder and lead rock climbers. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 27, 310–314.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Folkl, A. K. (2013). Characterizing the consequences of chronic climbing-related injury in sport climbers and boulderers. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 24, 153–158. doi:10.1016/j.wem.2012.11.010.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Fryer, S., Dickson, T., Draper, N., Blackwell, G., & Hillier, S. (2012). A psychophysiological comparison of on-sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 23, 645–650. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0838.2011.01432.x
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A., & Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 14, 301–309.10.1080/02640419608727715
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Grant, S., Hasler, T., Davies, C., Aitchison, T. C., Wilson, J., & Whittaker, A. (2001). A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 19, 499–505.10.1080/026404101750238953
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Green, A. L., Draper, N., & Helton, W. S. (2013). The impact of fear words in a secondary task on complex motor performance: A dual-task climbing study. Psychological Research, 78, 557–565. doi:10.1007/s00426-013-0506-8
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Laffaye, G., Collin, J.-M., Levernier, G., & Padulo, J. (2014). Upper-limb power test in rock-climbing. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 35, 670–675. doi:10.1055/s-0033-1358473
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Lechner, B., Filzwieser, I., Lieschnegg, M., & Sammer, P. (2013). A climbing hold with an integrated three dimensional force measurement and wireless data acquisition. International Journal on Smart Sensing and Intelligent Systems, 6, 2296–2307.
   Google Scholar
• Limonta, E., Cè, E., Veicsteinas, A., & Esposito, F. (2009). Force control during fatiguing contractions in elite rock climbers. Sport Sciences for Health, 4, 37–42. doi:10.1007/s11332-008-0065-3
   Google Scholar
• Llewellyn, D. J., & Sanchez, X. (2008). Individual differences and risk taking in rock climbing. Psychology of Sport and Exercise, 9, 413–426. doi:10.1016/S0001-4575(99)00026-3
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Macleod, D., Sutherland, D. L., Buntin, L., Whitaker, A., Aitchison, T., Watt, I., & Bradley, J. (2007). Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Sports Sciences, 25, 1433–1443. doi:10.1080/02640410600944550
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Michailov, M. L., Mladenov, L. V., & Schöffl, V. R. (2009). Anthropometric and strength characteristics of world-class boulderers. Medicina Sportiva, 13, 231–238. doi:10.2478/v10036-009-0036-z
   Google Scholar
• Morenas Martín, J., Del Campo, V. L., Leyton Román, M., Gómez-Valadés Horrillo, J. M., & Gómez Navarrete, J. S. (2013). Description of the finger mechanical load of climbers of different levels during different hand grips in sport climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 31, 1713–1721. doi:10.1080/02640414.2013.797592
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Padrenosso, A., de Godoy, E. S., César, E., Barreto, A., Reis, V., Silva, A., & Dantas, E. (2008). Somatic and functional profile of sport rock climbers. Physical Education and Sport, 52, 73–76.10.2478/v10030-008-0015-5
   Google Scholar
• Benge, M., & Raleigh, D. (1995). Rock: Tools and technique. Carbondale, CO: Elk Mountain Press.
   Google Scholar
• Rockfax. (n.d.). Grade conversions.[ online]. Retrieved November 15, 2014 from http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/
   Google Scholar
• Schoeffl, V., Klee, S., & Strecker, W. (2004). Evaluation of physiological standard pressures of the forearm flexor muscles during sport specific ergometry in sport climbers. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 38, 422–425. doi:10.1136/bjsm.2002.003996
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schöffl, V., Morrison, A., Hefti, U., Ullrich, S., & Küpper, T. (2010). The UIAA medical commission injury classification for mountaineering and climbing sports. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 22, 46–51.
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Schöffl, V. R., Hoffmann, G., & Küpper, T. (2013). Acute injury risk and severity in indoor climbing-a prospective analysis of 515,337 indoor climbing wall visits in 5 years. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 24, 187–194. doi:10.1016/j.wem.2013.03.020
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Sherk, V. D., Sherk, K. A., Kim, S., Young, K. C., & Bemben, D. A. (2011). Hormone responses to a continuous bout of rock climbing in men. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 111, 687–693. doi:10.1007/s00421-010-1685-2
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• The American Alpine Club. (2012). The American Alpine Journal. Canada: The American Alpine Club.
   Google Scholar
• Watts, P. B. (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 91, 361–372. doi:10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Watts, P. B., Martin, D. T., & Durtschi, S. (1993). Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 11, 113–117.10.1080/02640419308729974
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Woollings, K. Y., McKay, C. D., Kang, J., Meeuwisse, W. H., & Emery, C. A. (2014). Incidence, mechanism and risk factors for injury in youth rock climbers. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 49, 44–50. doi:10.1136/bjsports-2014-094067
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Young, P. R., Eklund, R. C., Tenenbaum, G., Glueckauf, R. L., & Thompson, B. (2014). Not so risky business: The use of planning within rock climbing. Leisure, 38, 21–33. doi:10.1080/14927713.2014.932970
   Google Scholar