National Dress, Gender and Scotland: 1745–1822

References

• Thanks are due to the AHRC and National Museums Scotland for their support in this project.
   Google Scholar
• Robin Nicholson, ‘From Ramsay’s Flora MacDonald to Raeburn’s MacNab: The Use of Tartan as a Symbol of Identity’, Textile History, xxxvi, no. 2 (2005 ), pp. 146–67.
   Google Scholar
• Jules David Prown, ‘Mind in Matter: An Introduction to Material Culture Theory and Method’, Winterthur Portfolio, xvii, no. 1 (1982 ), pp. 1–19 (pp. 9–10).
   Google Scholar
• Catherine Richardson ed., ‘Introduction’, Clothing Culture, 1350– (Aldershot: Ashgate, 2004), pp. 1–25 (p. 6).
   Google Scholar
• National Museums Scotland (hereafter NMS), 1964–553 cream silk dress, 1740s. I am indebted to Naomi Tarrant for her help in examining and discussing aspects of this dress.
   Google Scholar
• Natalie Rothstein, Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century, in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, with a Complete Catalogue (London: Thames & Hudson, 1990 ), p. 43.
   Google Scholar
• V&A, T.179 and A-1959, mantua and petticoat of cream silk, 1740s. See Avril Hart and Susan North, Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Fashion in Detail (London: V&A Publishing, 2009), pp. 64–65.
   Google Scholar
• Rothstein, Silk Designs, p. 27; English silks tended to be 19–21 inches, French 22 inches.
   Google Scholar
• Murray G. H. Pittock, ‘Oliphant, Laurence, of Gask, Styled the Ninth Lord Oliphant (1691– 1767 )’, Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (Oxford University Press, 2004), online edition www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/ 20710 [accessed 01/08/2008], p. 2.
   Google Scholar
• Pittock, ‘Oliphant’, pp. 1–2; M. E. M. Graham, The Oliphants of Gask: Records of a Jacobite Family (London: Grampian Club, 1910), pp. 128, 186i T. L. Kington-Oliphant, The Jacobite Lairds of Gask (London, 1879), pp. 101, 105–11.
   Google Scholar
• Elaine Chalus, Elite Women in English Political Life, c.1754–1790 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 2005 ), p. 16.
   Google Scholar
• Murray Pittock, ‘Jacobite Culture’, in R. C. Woosnam-Savage ed., 1745: Charles Edward Stuart and the Jacobites (Glasgow: HMSO, 1995), p. 73.
   Google Scholar
• Cited by Kington-Oliphant, Jacobite Lairds, pp. 124, 127.
   Google Scholar
• See Frank McLynn, The Jacobites (London: Routledge, 1985 ); Murray G. H. Pittock, Jacobitism (London: Macmillan, 1998).
   Google Scholar
• Murray G. H. Pittock, The Myth of the Jacobite Clans (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 1995 ), pp. 60, 118.
   Google Scholar
• Pittock, Jacobitism, p. 73.
   Google Scholar
• For English examples, see Paul Kléber Monod, Jacobitism and the English People, 1688–1788 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1993 ), pp. 210–11; Pittock, Jacobitism, p. 59.
   Google Scholar
• Pittock, Jacobitism, p. 73. See Monod’s discussion of use of the locational significance of the white rose, which were, for example, more expensive in London, Jacobitism & the English, p. 210.
   Google Scholar
• V&A, T.260: A1969, mantua of ivory silk embroidered with coloured silks, 1740–45; V&A, 39-1876, embroidered panel with coloured silks, eighteenth century.
   Google Scholar
• McLynn, Jacobites, pp. 153–54.
   Google Scholar
• Ibid.i p. 82.
   Google Scholar
• John Ramsay, Scotland and Scotsmen in the Eighteenth Century, 2 vols (Edinburgh: W. Blackwood & Sons, 1888), ii, p. 85n.
   Google Scholar
• Charles Sanford Terry ed., The Albemarle Papers, Being the Correspondence of William Anne, Second Earl of Albemarle, Commander in Chief in Scotland, 1746– (Aberdeen: New Spalding Club 1902 ), William Anne, Earl of Albemarle, letter dated 24 December 1746, pp. 348–49.
   Google Scholar
• Robert Forbes, The Lyon in Mourning, or a Collection of Speeches, Letters, Journals Etc. Relative to the Affairs of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, 3 vols, ed. by Henry Paton (Edinburgh: Scottish History Society, 1895), ii., pp. 110–112.
   Google Scholar
• Maggie Craig, Damn’ Rebel Bitches: The Women of the ’45 (Edinburgh: Mainstream Publishing, 1997), p. 39; John Telfer Dunbar, The Costume of Scotland (London: B. T. Batsford, 1989), p. 135.
   Google Scholar
• Prown, ‘Mind in Matter’, p. 9.
   Google Scholar
• John Gibson Lockhart cited by John Prebble, The King’s Jaunt (Edinburgh: Birlinn, 2000), p. 211.
   Google Scholar
• John Telfer Dunbar, History of Highland Dress (Edinburgh: Oliver & Boyd, 1962 ), p. 12.
   Google Scholar
• Pittock argues that tartan has recurrently been used as a sign of ‘traditional, authentic Scottishness’ since the late sixteenth century. Murray G. H. Pittock, Scottish Nationality (Basingstoke: Palgrave, 2001 ), p. 3.
   Google Scholar
• NMS, A.1993. 208-A-D, tartan suit worn by William Blackhall (1792–1863 ) of Blackfaulds, West Lothian.
   Google Scholar
• NMS, A.1915. 212, piper’s uniform worn by Malcolm McCallum.
   Google Scholar
• Walter Scott, Hints Addressed to the Inhabitants of Edinburgh, and Others, in Prospect of His Majesty’s Visit (Edinburgh, 1822), p. 20.
   Google Scholar
• Printed in Elizabeth Grant, Memoirs of a Highland Lady (Edinburgh: Canongate, 2006 ), ii. p. 166n.
   Google Scholar
• Henry Cockburn, Some Letters of Lord Cockburn, with Pages Omitted from the Memorials of His Time, ed. by Harry Cockburn (Edinburgh: Grant & Murray, 1932), p. 103. eds, The Invention of Tradition (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992 ), pp. 15–42 (p. 25).
   Google Scholar
• National Archives of Scotland (hereafter NAS), GD105/740/30, Glasgow Sentinel, Wednesday, 24 July 1822, p. 332.
   Google Scholar
• NAS, GD105/740/30, Glasgow Sentinel, Wednesday, 24 July 1822, p. 332.
   Google Scholar
• This information was obtained from the letters and orders sent to the firm held in the National Library of Scotland MS6661-3 (1792) and MS6810-6824 (1822 ). See also Dunbar, Costume of Scotland, p. 110.
   Google Scholar
• Prebble, King’s Jaunt, pp. 132, 312.
   Google Scholar
• NMS, 1953. 1312, William Murray to Wilsons of Bannockburn, 9 August 1822.
   Google Scholar
• NAS, Papers of the Campbell Family, Earls of Breadalbane, GD112/52/610/5, Robert McGillin to the Earl of Breadalbane, 5 August 1822.
   Google Scholar
• Pittock, Scottish Nationality, p. 3.
   Google Scholar
• Prebble, King’s Jaunt, pp. 358, 364.
   Google Scholar
• Scott, Hints, p. 25.
   Google Scholar
• B. C. Skinner, ‘A Contemporary Account of the Royal Visit to Edinburgh, 1822’, in Book of the Old Edinburgh Club, xxxi (Edinburgh: Old Edinburgh Club 1962), pp. 65–167 (p. 124).
   Google Scholar
• The Times, Monday, 19 August 1822, p. 2, issue 11641, col. E.
   Google Scholar
• Dunbar, Costume of Scotland, p. 146.
   Google Scholar