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Articles

The Genesis of the British Hosiery Industry 1600–1750

Pages 7-50 | Published online: 02 Dec 2013

REFERENCES

  • G. Henson, History of the Framework Knitters (Nottingham 1831 ), pp. 60, 236–7.
  • M. and A. Grass, Stockings for a Queen (1967).
  • J. Thirsk, ‘Industries in the Countryside’, in Essays in the Economic and Social History of Tudor and Stuart England, edited by F. J. Fisher (1961).
  • R. J. Faith, ‘Peasant Families and Inheritance Customs’, Agricultural History Review, XIV (1966).
  • J. Thirsk, Opecit., p. 70.
  • M. and A. Grass, Opecit., pp. 2–3, 38–9.
  • Portland MSS, Notts. CRO DDP 17/68.
  • A. C. Wood, ‘A Petition relating to the Manor of Mansfield’, Transactions Thoroton Society, XLII (1938).
  • Henson, pp. 57–8.
  • Henson, p. 38.
  • A. Latour, ‘The Knitted Stocking’, Ciba Review, 106 (1954), 3809; James Thompson, History of Leicester in the Eighteenth Century (1871), p. 253.
  • D. C. Coleman, ‘Labour in the English economy of the seventeenth century’, Economic History Review, N.S. VIII (1956).
  • M. and A. Grass, Opecit., p. 122.
  • See references to hand knitting in London framework knitters’ petition of 1657, cited below, n. 45.
  • T. F. Priaulx, ‘The Guernsey Stocking Export Trade in the Seventeenth Century’, Trans. Soc. Guernesiaise, 1961.
  • Henson, pp. 104, 169–70.
  • M. Hartley and J. Ingilby, The Old Hand Knittersof the Dales (Clapham, Yorks., 1951 ), passim.; T. S. Willan, Abraham Dent, An Eighteenth Century Shopkeeper (Manchester, 1970), p. 101.
  • S. D. Chapman, ‘Capital and Economic Growth in the First Half of the Eighteenth Century’, forthcoming article.
  • Hosiers and Framework Knitters’ Examinations before Committee of House of Commons (pamphlet, 1779, Derby Public Library), pp. 3–6; Hartley and Ingilby, p. 54; Nottingham Journal, 8 Feb. 1772.
  • Hartley and Ingilby, pp. 75–6.
  • T. F. Priaulx, art. cit.
  • Hartley and Ingilby, pp. 69, 89, 121.
  • R. Campbell, The London Tradesman (1747), p. 214.
  • A. Young, Tour through the North of England (1770), III, pp. 170-I.
  • Statistics assembled in D. M. Smith, ‘The British Hosiery Industry at the middle of the Nineteenth Century’, Trans. Inst. Brit. Geographers, no. 32, 1963, p. 129.
  • P.R.O. C 113/31, bundles 27B, 28. (Reference kindly supplied by Miss N. Rothstein.)
  • Inventory of George Laxton, Leics. C.R.O., 1692 file, no. 108. The prices quoted may be wholesale.
  • Henson, pp. 87–8, 93, 95, 169–70; Compare C. Deering, Nottinghamia Vetus et Nova (1751), p. 100.
  • C. Deering, lococit.; W. Gardiner, Music and Friends (1831 ), I, pp. 91–2; II, p. 812.
  • W. Gardiner, lococit.
  • Sun Fire Officeinsurance policy registers, MS. I 1,936, Guildhall Library, London. Policies of George Burden, ‘Threadmaker, Dyer and Hosier’, Vol. 84, 13 Jan. 1748, and Vol. 94, 30 Dec. 1751; Burden & Wright, ‘Threadworkers and Dyers’, Vol. 84, lococit. (These registers are subsequently referred to as ‘Sun’, followed by volume number and date only.)
  • Numerous probate inventories of framework knitters registered with Nottingham Deanery Court. Borthwick Institute, York.
  • Henson, pp. 105, 165, 173–4.
  • Henson, pp. 171–3.
  • W. Gardiner, II, p. 812; Sun, Vol. 43, 13 Aug. 1735; Vol. 84, 2 Nov. 1748; Vol. 100, 2 May 1753.
  • Henson, p. 104.
  • Journal and Ledger of John GardomofBubnell (Derbys.). MS. in possession of Mr A. E. C. Longsdon, The Manor House, Little Longstone, near Bakewell, Derbys.
  • E. B. Schumpeter, English Overseas Trade Statistics 1697–1808 (Oxford, 1960), pp. 35–7, 69.
  • Calculation based on 1,000 frames at Leicester (W. Gardiner, lococit.) and hence maximum annual production of 50,000 dozen pairs stockings.
  • S. D. Chapman, Introduction to David & Charles edition of Henson’s History of the Framework Knitters.
  • Henson, p. 66.
  • City of London Freedoms Register 1667–8, Chamberlain’s Dept., Guildhall, E.C.2. Numbers of knitters are described as ‘citizen and clothworker, now framework knitter’.
  • London framework knitters’ petition of 1657, reprinted by J. Blackner, History of Nottingham (1815 ), p. 44°
  • Charles Ballot, L’introduction du machinisme dans l’industriefranfaise (Lille and Paris, 1923 ),pp. 264–7; Maurice Danmas, Histoire generale des techniques, t. II Les premieres etapes du machinisme (Paris, 1965), pp. 240–3, 248.
  • Quoted J. Blackner, op. cit., p. 45.
  • Henson, p. 57.
  • Public Record Office, C.O.389/1, pp. 37–8.
  • Text in Nottingham PL, M4041.
  • MS. copy of Bye-Laws, Nottingham PL, M4039.
  • Journal of the House of Commons (hereafter JHC), XXVI, p. 781.
  • Framework Knitters’ Company Apprenticeship Register, 1694–8, Nottingham PL.
  • Framework Knitters’ Co. Letter Book, 26 July 1725. Guildhall Library, E.C.2.
  • Ibid., 4 May and 19 July 1725.
  • Ibid., I Feb. and I March 1725/6.
  • Ibid., 26 Sept. 1728.
  • Ibid., I Dec. 1731.
  • Ibid., 10 Oct., and 9 Nov. 1726.
  • List of ‘Subscribers’ and ‘Opponents’ in 1730, Nottm PL, M4041. Letter Book, 14 Oct. 1730. The mayor for 1729/3°, Alex. Burden, was related to a Mansfield family of hosiers, and may have deliberately appointed two leading hosiers as sheriffs to bring the matter to a head. Both Burden and Fellows were leading members of High Pavement Chapel.
  • Framework Knitters’ Co. Letter Book, 25 Feb. 1730/1.
  • Ibid., I Dec. 1731.
  • Ibid., 20 June-2o Aug. 1745. Henson, pp. 97–100, is clearly a prejudiced account.
  • JHC, XXVI, p. 78r.
  • Henson, pp. 98–9.
  • JHC, lococit.
  • C. Deering, op. cit., p. 100.
  • T. M. Blagg and F. A. Wadsworth, Notts. Marriage Licences (1935 ), pp. 204, 249. Wills of Mary Lockyer and Sarah Holmes, Notts. CRO, PRMW 36/8a, 37/4a.
  • Will of Thos. Selby, Oct. 166r. Borthwick Institute, York. All subsequent Nottm. and Notts. wills and inventories cited are at York unless otherwise stated.
  • Henson, p. 83.
  • Notts. CRO, PRMW 26/2.
  • C. Deering, op. cit., pp. 91–2.
  • A. P. Wadsworth and J. de L. Mann, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, 1600–1780 (Manchester, 1931), p. 73.
  • S. Thrupp, The Merchant Class of Mediaeval London (Chicago, 1948 ), pp. 208–14, and City of London Freedoms Register 1667–8, Chamberlain’s Dept, Guildhall, E.C.2.
  • Will and inventory of John Foster, MS. 9°52, Box 18, Guildhall Library.
  • High Pavement Chapel, Nottingham. A Bibliographical Catalogue of Portraits (Nottm, 1932 ), pp. 25–6; Henson, pp. 96, 98–100.
  • Fillingham of Syerston MSS, Notts. CRO, DDFM 80/12.
  • T. M. Blagg and F. A. Wadsworth, op. cit., p. 350; inventory of H. Jamson, June 1690.
  • High Pavement Chapel Baptismal Register, 16 Nov. 1718, 7 May 1719.
  • Will of Brian Stanton, Dec. 1738. For the Burden family, above, n. 31 and n. 58.
  • High Pavement Baptismal Register; M. W. Walker, A History of the Family of Need of Arnold, Notts. (Nottm, 1963).
  • Advertisements for sale of property in Leicester and Nottingham Journal, e.g. 18 Feb. 1758, 19 June 1762, and case histories cited below.
  • Henson, p. 96.
  • Sun Vol. 31, 25 Mar. 1730. See also Vol. 48, 31 Mar. 1738.
  • For Spray see Nottingham Journal, 8 Nov. 1760, for Beardsley below, section VI.
  • W. Hutton, History of Derby (1791), pp. 191–210; W. H. Chaloner, People and Industries (1963), Chapter I.
  • MSS of Hon. Mrs Trollope-Bellew at Casewick, near Stamford, Lines. Letters, mortgage and assignment, 1707–16, re Derby Silk Mill.
  • C. Deering, op. cit., p. 101.
  • W. Gardiner, op. cit., II,p. 81I; Halford MSS, Leics. CRO.
  • Wills of H. Jamson, July 1690, and George Paravicini, June 1735. How in Sun Vol. 21, 3 Dec. 1725.
  • Will of S. Ryley, Feb. 1712–13. See also Richard Summers’s will, Feb. 1686–7, and Joseph Whitchurch’s, Nov. 1694.
  • e.g. Joseph Tomlinson, Will of July 1689; James Dymock, Sun Vol. 45, Jan. 1735.
  • Sun Vol. 21, 3 June 1725; Vol. 28, 26 June 1729; Vol. 19, 8 Feb. 1724.
  • Sun Vol. 88, 29 Mar. 1750.
  • Sun Vol. 22, 15 Oct. 1726; Vol. 12, 17 Jan. 1720.
  • Sun Vol. 21, 3 Dec. 1725.
  • e.g. Richard Hayton of Hawes, hosier, at Waterman’s Arms. Sun Vol. 46, 29 April 1737.
  • Smith’s Bank Ledger, 1748–52 (National Westminster Bank, Nottingham).
  • Nottingham Journal, 24 June 1758.
  • R. A. Church, Victorian Nottingham I8I5-I900 (1966 ), pp. 32–3.
  • Quoted J. Blackner, op. cit., p. 440.
  • Details in Henson, pp. 61–6.
  • Henson, p. 46.
  • Anonymous historian, quoted Trans. Thoroton Society, II (1898 ), p. 34.
  • C. Deering, op. cit., pp. 98–9.
  • Ibid., pp. 94–5.
  • Will of Thos. Selby dated 6 June 1659.
  • Blagg and Wadsworth, p. 210.
  • Inv. of John Horsley Jan. 169°-I; will of Wm. Taylor, Aug. 1719.
  • Invs of John Chatburn, May 1712; Wm. Lovett, Jan. 1718; Geo. Firth, May 1726. See also Thomas Standale of Nottingham, ‘framesmith and blacksmith’, Nottm Apprenticeship Registers, I, 54.
  • Invs of Joshua Granger, Aug. 1705; John Cooper, Nov. 1714; William Betts (Mansfield), Notts. CRO PRMN 61/4. Cooper was a blacksmith in 1672; Blagg and Wadsworth, p. 277.
  • Deering, pp. 94–5.
  • Blagg and Wadsworth, pp. 210, 321, 416.
  • Fellows and Stanton from London. High Pavement Baptismal Register.
  • R. Campbell, London Tradesman, pp. 322, 334.
  • Bulwell Forge (3 miles NW of Nottm) was probably the main supplier. All the iron mill workers mentioned in the marriage licences have this address.
  • Cal. S.P. Dom., 1655, p. 267.
  • Henson, p. 97.
  • Deering, p. 94; Henson, p. 60.
  • Published in Blagg and Wadsworth, op. cit.
  • Deering, 101; W. Gardiner, op. cit., II, p. 810.
  • H. Hartopp, Register of the Freemen of Leicester 1196–1770 (1927); Framework Knitters’ Co., Apprentices Bound in Nottingham. Nottm PL, M. 4040.
  • Nottm PL, M 4040.
  • J. D. Chambers, Vale of Trent (1958 ), esp. pp. 34–5.
  • Notts. CRO, PSW 79/8.
  • Appendix D.
  • A. B. Clarke, ‘Notes on the Mayors of Nottingham’, Trans. Thoroton Society, XLI(1931 ), pp. 64, 71; Blagg and Wadsworth, p. 218.
  • Sun Vol. 21, 3 Dec. 1725.
  • London Assurance, Vol. I, 10 May 1723. Guildhall Library, E.C.2.
  • Appendix D, and the case histories of Unwin and Baker & Gardom, analysed below, section VI.
  • Nottm PL, M.I553–7.
  • M. W. Walker, op. cit., p. II.
  • Hosiers’ and Framework Knitters’ Examinations before Committee of House of Commons (pamphlet, 1779), pp. 3–6. Derby PL.
  • Notts. CRO DDCB/135–9; M. W. Walker, loco cit.
  • Hosiers’ and Framework Knitters’ Examinations, loco cit.
  • Smith’s Ledger, 1748–52.
  • Lenton Parish Registers.
  • Sun Vol. 21,21 May 1726; Vol. 22, 15 Oct. 1726; Vol. 49,24 Oct 1737; Nottingham Journal, 23 Sept. 1758.
  • Smith’s Ledger, 1748–52.
  • Nottingham Journal, 23 Sept. and 23 Dec. 1758.
  • Ibid., 22 July 1758.
  • Wills of Samuel Spray, May 1744, and Elizabeth Spray, Nov. 1744; Sun Vol. 15, 20 Oct. 1722; Vol. 22, 22 Feb. 1725; Vol. 30, 7 Sept. 1730. Nottingham Journal, 8 Nov. 1760.
  • Will of Jonas Bettinson I, July 1730; Will and inv. of J.B. II, Nov. 1747.
  • C. Aspin and S. D. Chapman, James Hargreaves and the Spinning Jenny (1964).
  • Henson, pp. 3°4–17; W. Dearden, Nottingham Directory (1834 ), p. 83; Nottingham Review, 3 June 1831.
  • Henson, pp. 313–15; Blackner, pp. 252, 358; Hoveringham Baptismal Register, 29 Sept. 1751.
  • Notts. CRO, PRMW 45/2.
  • Notts. CRO, PRMW 52/2, 72/4.
  • Spencer T. Hall, Biographical Sketches (1873 ), p. 212.
  • Henson, 106; Will of Samuel Clay, Notts. CRO PRMW 72/4; Coltman MSS, Leicester Museums Archives Dept 15 D57/448 (‘Memoirs of Samuel Coltman’), Chapter I.
  • Wm. Haslam’s Ledger, 1743–85, a MS. in possession of Mr W. C. Dove, and local tradition.
  • Catherine Hutton, Reminiscences of a Gentlewoman (Birmingham, 1891 ), pp. 22–3.
  • John Nichols, History of Leics., IV(2), p. 571; W. Gardiner, op. cit., I, p. 62.
  • C. J. Billson, Leicester Memoirs (Leic., 1924 ), pp. 16–22.
  • Lichfield Diocese wills and inventories, Lichfield JRO.
  • John Gardom married his widow: Nottingham Journal, 28 Jan. 1769.
  • John Gardom’s Cash Book 1742–71, MS. in possession of Mr A. E. C. Longsdon; Barker MSS, Bar. D 277–8, Sheffield Central Library.
  • Henson, p. 183.
  • Will of Mark Huish, Feb. 1729/3°; High Pavement Chapel Biographical Catalogue, p. 29; J. Blackner, op. cit.
  • Compare apprenticeships’ premiums paid to mercers and drapers in H. Hartopp, op. cit., and Nottm Apprentices Bound Register. Also inventories of leading mercers, e.g. George Firth, Nottm (Feb. 1701–2 ), Ald. Gervase Rippon, Nottm (May 1693); Wm. Orton, Leks., Leks. CRO PR 1/113/161.
  • Inv., Oct. 1708.
  • See Appendix C.
  • J. A. S. L. Leighton-Boyce, Smiths the Bankers 1658–1958 (1958), pp. 36, 47–8.
  • Will of Thos. Smith, Aug. 1699; F. C. Smith, Pedigree of the Smith Family, Bromley House Library, Nottm.
  • A. Bannatyne, Memoir of Dugald Bannatyne (Glasgow, 1896 ), p. 24.
  • Sun Vol. 88, 28 April 1750.
  • A. Bannatyne, op. cit., pp. 12–22, 25.
  • Sun Vol. 54, I Nov. 1739.
  • Pedigree of Heywood, Manchester Central Library.
  • Sun Vol. 91, 22 Sept. 1750.
  • J. Thompson, History of Leicester in the Eighteenth Century (1871 ), p. 253.
  • H. Hartopp, op. cit., Leicester Borough Hall Papers, 1670–5, f. 245.
  • J. Nichols, Opecit., pp. 679, 709.
  • Will of Eliz. Attwood, Feb. 1684–5, Guildhall Library, E.C.2; pedigree of Iliffe of Hinckley, J. Nichols, op. cit., p. 709.
  • A. J. Pickering, Cradle and Home of the Hosiery Trade (Hinckley, 1940 ), p. 21.
  • Sun Vol. 19, 8 Feb. 1724.
  • Will of John Iliffe, April 1704; Sun Vol. 22, 6 May 1726.
  • Sun Vol. 71, 8 Nov. 1744.
  • Leicester Great Meeting Vestry Minute Books.
  • W. Gardiner, op. cit., I, p. 205.
  • Inv. of George Pogson, Leics. CRO PR/I/52/266.
  • Leicester Hall Papers, lococit.
  • Leics. CRO inventories (unindexed), 1692, no. 108.
  • Ibid., 1698, no. 121.
  • Ibid., 1694, no. 35.
  • J. Thompson, op. cit., p. 254; W. Gardiner, op. cit., II, 810; J. Nichols, op. cit., I (2), 620.
  • D. Defoe, A Tour of the Whole Island of G.B. (1724–6 ), Everyman Edn, II, p. 488.
  • W. Gardiner, lococit.
  • e.g. Thos. Topp and Samuel Miles in H. Hartopp, Roll of the Mayors ... of Leicester (1935 ), pp. 148, 150; Abstinence Pougher in J. Nichols, op. cit., I (2), 555, 620.
  • H. Hartopp, Register of Freemen ... 3 pp. 170, 180, 389, 393.
  • Inv. of Richard Dand, Leics. CRO, 1690, no. 40.
  • J. Nichols, Opecit., IV (2), 570; J. Thompson, op. cit., p. 257.
  • L. S. Pressnell, Country Banking in the Industrial Revolution (1956 ), pp. 56–71.
  • J. Nichols, loCocit.
  • L. S. Pressnell, lococit.
  • 1712 data from Ald. Cowper, quoted J. Nichols, op. cit., I (2), p. 621.
  • Henson, p. 106.
  • W. Gardiner, op. cit., I, p. I; II, p. 810; H. Hartopp, Register, I, p. 417, for Cradock; C. J. Billson, op. cit., pp. 21–2.
  • J. D. Chambers, ‘The Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters’, Economica, IX (1929 ), pp. 296–310.
  • Inv. of Ger. Pogson of Dishley Mill, Leics. CRO, PR/I/52/266.
  • Inv. of Thos. Butterworth, Notts. CRO PRSW 79/8; Will of Benjamin Field, Shoreditch, Sept. 1665, Box 15, MS. 9°52, Guildhall Library E.C.2.
  • Inv. of John Horsley, Jan. 169°/1.
  • JHC, XXVI, p. 781.
  • See above, section III.
  • R. Bindley, The History of the Struggle for the Abolition of Frame Rents (Leic., 1875).
  • Memoir of Ald. William Felkin, MS., p. 109.
  • C. Deering, Opecit., p. 99.
  • W. Gardiner, lococit.; Hosiers and Framework Knitters Exams., loco cit.; Henson, pp. 385–6 n.
  • Anonymous historian, Trans. Thoroton Society, II, p. 41. Compare Deering, p. 92.
  • Appendix B.
  • Anonymous historian, lococit.
  • Sun Vol. 75, 29 March 1746.
  • e.g. Unwins at George Inn, Alfreton: Nottingham Journal, 17 Dec. 1791.
  • Will of Thos. Roberts of Nottm, July 1734, William Hoe) Dec. 1710.
  • Sun Vol. 31, 25 Mar. 1730, cited above, section IV.
  • Will of John Gilman, June 1750.
  • Will of Mary Winter, May 1747. Mary Bingham lent £22 to Richard Wilkinson, fwk (Will, Mar. 1736–7 ), Sarah Holmes lent George Eaton, fwk, and others £62 (Will, July 1710) and Sarah Watson had £80 ‘out at interest in the hands of Wm. Robinson, hosier, and Thomas Morley, gent’. (Will, April 1724). James Hoe, Nottm hosier, owed £438 on bond (inv., Nov. 1728).

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