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Articles

Enterprise and Innovation in the British Hosiery Industry, 1750–1850

Pages 14-37 | Published online: 19 Jul 2013

REFERENCES

  • Gravenor Henson, quoted in Report of the Commissioner on the Condition of the Framework Knitters, Parliamentary Papers, 1845, pp. 21–4. (Subsequently referred to as Framework Knitters Report.)
  • S. D. Chapman, ‘The Genesis of the British Hosiery Industry, 1600–1750’, Textile History, 3.
  • C. Deering, Nottinghamia Vetus et Nova (1751 ), p. 101; Willoughby’s Nottingham Directory (1799), and Appendix to this article.
  • W. Gardiner, Music and Friends (1838), II, p. 810.
  • Appendix.
  • For example, Nottingham Journal, 17February 1787, 31 May 1788.
  • W. Felkin, History of the Machine Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures (1867 ), p. 437. (Subsequently referred to as Felkin.)
  • S. D. Chapman, ‘Genesis’, pp. 30, 32, 37; Early Factory Masters, p. 84. See also the Appendix to present article.
  • Sun Fire Office Registers, 213/308099 (1772), Guildhall Library, London, EC2. (This series subsequently referred to as Sun.)
  • S. D. Chapman, ‘Genesis’, pp. 29–30; Turner, Barrows & Moss MSS, listed at Notts. C.R.O.
  • E. Hodder, Life of Samuel Morley (1889 ), pp. 3–6, suggests that Morleys were the first Nottingham firm to send a partner to London, but this is obviously untrue.
  • Nottingham Apprenticeship Registers, Vol. I (1723–53), p. 143. (MS., Nottingham P.L.)
  • D. Defoe, Tour through the Whole Island of Great Britain (1724–6), Everyman Edn., I, p. 271; II, p. 42. Angerstein MSS for Blandford, a minor centre for hand knitting of cotton stockings at mid-eighteenth century.
  • Hadden MSS (Nottingham University Archives); P. Morgan, Annals of Woodside and Newhills (Aberdeen, 1886), pp. 68–9; A. F. Munro, Memorials ... of Aberdeen (Aberdeen, 1897 ), pp. 260–2. I am indebted to Dr 1. Adams for information on the Aberdeen sources.
  • W. H. G. Armytage, A.J. Mundella~ 1825–1897. The Liberal background to the Labour Movement (1951), p. 22; C. Erickson, British Industrialists (1959), p. 91.
  • A. P. Usher, History of Mechanical Invention (1954 ), Chapter 4.
  • D. Landes, The Unbound Prometheus (Cambridge, 1969 ), p. 92.
  • J. Blackner, History of Nottingham (Nottingham, 1816); G. Henson, History of the Framework Knitters (Nottingham, 1831). These works are subsequently referred to as Blackner and Henson.
  • R. S. Fitton and A. P. Wadsworth, The Strutts and the Arkwrights (Manchester, 1958).
  • Nottingham Public Library, MS. 2004–7, 2086–92.
  • K. G. Ponting, ‘Logwood: an Interesting Dye’, Journal of European Economic History, II (1973).
  • W. Gardiner, loco cit.
  • Sun, 163/223673 (1765).
  • Sun, 136/181283 (1761), 163/223672 (1765), 139/184346 (1761). For Robinson see also P.R.O. C12/ 630/1 (1790). The later history of Robinsons can be found in S. D. Chapman, ‘The Cost of Power in the Industrial Revolution’, Midland History, I (1971).
  • John Whitt’s will, 25 October 1735, Notts. C.R.O.; memorials in St Mary’s Church, Nottingham.
  • Sun, Vol. 90, 22 January 1750; 104/139239 (1754). In 1757 Thos. Morris was the fourth Nottingham hosier to receive £100 apprenticeship premium – Nottingham Apprentice Registers, II, p. 26.
  • Sun, 130/173786 (1760), 141/188663 (1762).
  • P.R.O. C12/379/15.
  • Sun, 206/297776 (1771).
  • Nottingham Journal, 2 July 1768.
  • Nottingham Journal, 6 December 1777 (sale of Morris’s frames) and Morris v. Unwin, P.R.O. C12/ 379/15, November 1766.
  • Evidence of JohnSellors of Mansfield in same suit.
  • Felkin, p. 83. The prices quoted may have been retail for in 1766 women’s black silk mitts were being sold to Philadelphia merchants at 22S. to 42S. dozen; P. L. White, editor, The Beekman Mercantile Papers (New York, 1956), II, p. 911.
  • Henson, p. 285; Felkin, p. 83.
  • For example, Blackner, p. 222; Henson, p. 282; W. Gardiner, Music and Friends, II, p. 813.
  • Morris v. Unwin, loco cit.
  • Henson, p. 282. For Samuel Fellows see S. D. Chapman, ‘Genesis’, pp. 17–19.
  • Henson, pp. 285–6, 291. Nottingham Journal, 29 June 1771.
  • Blackner, pp. 231–2; Henson, p. 304.
  • Hayne v. Frost (1787), P.R.O. E112/1903/48.
  • Blackner, p. 232, and evidence given in Hayne v. Frost.
  • Hayne v. Frost, and Henson, pp. 313–15.
  • Henson, pp. 304–17; Blackner, pp. 232, 237; Nottingham Review, 3 June 1831.
  • Felkin, p. 140.
  • Blackner, pp. 85,226; Nottingham Journal, 29 June 1782; Sun, 234/347163 (1774); R. March, Treatise on Silk~ Wool~ Worsted and Thread ... (1779).
  • G. Willkomm, Technology of Framework Knitting (1879), II, p. 244.
  • W. Gardiner, Music and Friends, II, p. 814.
  • Blackner, pp. 229, 231; compare Henson, pp. 352–6.
  • Gardiner, II, p. 816.
  • A. P. Usher, Opecit., p. 79.
  • Felkin, p. 193.
  • Felkin, p. 189. For further details see D. E. Varley, ‘John Heathcoat (1783–1861) Founder of the Machine Made Lace Industry’, Textile History, 1 (1968).
  • Felkin, pp. 339, 341.
  • Compare occupations of 1816 licencees, Felkin, p. 245.
  • Henson, pp. 174, 238, 285, 416.
  • Sir F. M. Eden, State of the Poor (1797 ), p. 276 (Rogers edn).
  • P.R.O. H042/131, quoted by M. I. Thomis, Luddism in Nottinghanzshire (1972 ), p. 37.
  • Nottingham Journal, Nottingham Review, 2 September 1819.
  • Felkin, pp. 248–50.
  • Felkin, p. 252; T. Bailey, Annals of Nottinghamshire, IV (1852–5 ), pp. 340–2. Machines were rented at £120 to £150 p.a.
  • Nottingham Review, 16 August 1816.
  • Nottingham Review, 18 July 1817. At this period numbers of artisans built their own machines – there were 3r framesmiths infringers of Heathcoat’s patent in 1816. (Felkin, p. 245.)
  • Felkin, pp. 332–3.
  • Blackner, p. 446.
  • Felkin is a panegyric of the achievements of the self-made lar.e manufacturers of this period.
  • H. J. Habakkuk, American and British Technology (Cambridge, 1962 ) Chapter 5.
  • Framework Knitters Report,. 1845, especially evidence of Wm. Biggs of Leicester.
  • Leicester Mercury, 3 April 1841.
  • C. Copeland Smith, Records and Reminiscences (Heanor, 1904 ), pp. 21–3.
  • Patent Office, London. Abridgement of Specifications relating to Lace Making, Knitting ... 1675–1866 (1879 ) lists the following patents for hosiery (as distinct from lace):
  • W. H. Wylie, Old and New Nottingham (Nottingham, 1853 ), p. 299; W. H. G. Armytage, A. J. Mundella, 1825–1897 (1951), pp. 20–4.
  • Children’s Employment Commission Report, Parliamentary Papers, 1862, p. 267. Evidence of Thomas Ashwell.
  • Framework Knitters Report, 1845, pp. 93–4.
  • Felkin, p. 472.
  • W. Felkin, An Account of the Machine-Wrought Hosiery Trade (1845 ), p. 4; Framework Knitters Report, 1845, evidence of J. W. Hancock, Appendix II, pp. 261–2.
  • Patent Office, Abridgement of Specifications ....
  • C. Erickson, British Industrialists, Steel and Hosiery 1850–1950 (Cambridge, 1959 ), p. 179. W. H. G. Armytage, Opecit., p. 21.
  • Felkin MSS, Memoir of Henry Martin Felkin (1836–1907). The firm was Ashwell & Wallis, and Felkin was appointed agent in 1860. The agency was taken over by Hine & Mundella in 1864.
  • Henson, p. 323.
  • For example, C. K. Hyde, ‘The Adoption of Coke Smelting by the British Iron Industry 1709–1790’, Explorations in Economic History, X (1973); T. C. Barker, R. Dickinson, and D. W. F. Hardie, ‘The Origins of the Synthetic Alkali Industry in Britain’, Economica, N.S., XXIII (1956).
  • S. D. Chapman, ‘Genesis’, p. 17.
  • W. Felkin, An Account lococit.

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